Hello!! I am having the same issue with my Ficus Bonsai. Just 3 weeks ago, I moved from my home into my dorm, and I brought my bonsai with me. Since then, he's been losing leaves, and its been getting worse!! (Theres leaves with dark spots, and leaves with dimples) At first, I assumed it was travel shock, but would travel shock last for 3 weeks? I have been watering when the any of the top inch of the soil gets dry, should I water more? Less? The pot has drainage holes at the bottom, but its sitting in a white pot so water might not be able to escape as easily. There's space on the sides- should I poke holes in the sides? And finally, my last note, is that I noticed some white substances it gathering at where the roots meets the ground, should I be concerned?

Any damage that is showing on your plants is mechanical - that means it came to be from shipping and other transport, handling or jostling. It is not the result of diseases or insects nor does it look like any watering issues. In reality, these plants look pretty darn good considering most big box stores do not take the slightest bit of care with their plants (hence the evidence of damage you are seeing). As to fertilizing, you need to identify your plants and then do a bit of research, as not all plants benefit from similar fertilization methods nor do they require it at the same time. Cacti and succulents have different needs than do tropical foliage plants and flowering houseplants (orchids, African violets, flowering gift plants) have yet another set of needs. In general, an all purpose liquid fertilizer used at 1/2 to 1/3 strength with every other watering is appropriate for most tropicals during their primary growing season (March through October) but you can get by with quite a bit less. I'd suggest you post this on the House Plants forum both to get accurate ID's on your plants and their advice as to when, how much and with what to best fertilize what you have.

hello from Sharon : I have a similar plant in my house. I purchased mine online from Hirt's Gardens. I have a few peperomias at home . I find that they do better in a terra cotta clay pot. They should not be watered too often. If you have it in a plastic pot with very moist soil, let the soil dry out completely before watering it again. Mine does not have any aerial roots, so I can't advise you on that. It looks like you have a variegated version of peperomia. I have a similar one with marbled green and white leaves. I think that yours would do better in a terra cotta pot. You can get these at Home Depot or Lowes for very cheap. I hope this helps. thanks

I'd really appreciate any help at all to save my peperomia clusiifolia, Jelly! I've had her for two years now, she's the first plant I ever got that I didn't immediately kill so I'm super attached and don't want to lose her! Here are the facts: Water once per week, indirect light next to window Last time repotted was probably November, with this Sphagnum Peat Moss potting mix Large, brown spots started appearing in the middle of the leaves about two weeks ago. The first leaf just fell off today. The brown spots aren't like dry and crunchy, they're like soft I noticed the sides of the leaves starting to curl inward around that time too--could there be a nutrient deficiency? I don't add miracle grow or anything when I water A couple weeks ago I also noticed that the soil isn't drying out as fast as it used to--her pot also just feels heavier than my other plants around the same size. Could the soil be water logged or need to be aerated or something if that's a thing? Time to change the soil? Or is she too big for the pot and dying because she's cramped? I think it's a 7 inch pot. Any help at all would be amazing! I tried looking online but her brown spots don't look like any other brown spots I've seen because it's just like one big spot in the middle and not a bunch of little spots all over.