I too, have an old carved door and it's just waiting for me, to put a sheet of glass over it, from a sliding door, that matches exactly. It's going to be my craft table, in the family room and I'm in the beginning process of moving back home, so will do that when I get there. both of them are in the house I'm going to, so I don't need to transport them. Even with the glass of your door, with the glass above it, it's protected. and, in the carved ares, you can set fun things in, for display..like marbles, shells, pictures and whatever fits in the narrow space, between the door and glass....that's my intention, anyway. Becky~~~

Wood vs. Engineered Wood? No contest in this case. If the home was built in 1905, put real hardwood in. This preserves the integrity of the home's building materials. Plus, as you can see from the age of these floors, higher grades (i.e. thicker) hardwood can be sanded several times; you usually don't get even one chance to sand engineered wood. The hardwood layer at the top of this multilayered product is simply too thin. Level Floors and Subfloors There are ways to level a subfloor, ranging from replacing parts of the subfloor with thicker or thinner sheets of plywood (or planks, see below), to pour-on leveling compounds that harden to make the entire floor level. What you use to level uneven areas depends on what the subflooring is. If it is plywood or concrete, the compound works. But more likely with this home, on floors at or above grade, there will be wood planks laid at a diagonal across the floor joists. So in your home, the layers were probably joists first, then subfloor planks of wood, then hardwood with tongue & groove joints. You cannot effectively use a pour-on leveling compound on a plank subfloor, as there are cracks between the planks. However, you can lay a new hardwood floor directly on a wood plank subfloor as long as those planks are sound and relatively level. Replace individual planks that have been damaged by water or insects, are otherwise compromised, or even missing (it happens!), with either new planks of lumber, or with plywood of the same thickness as the planks. Any lumber you install, for either the subfloor or finished flooring, should be brought in to your home several days prior to installation, so the materials acclimatize to your typical interior temperature and humidity. Unlike for ceramic or porcelain tile, the subfloor does not have to be perfectly level. And unlike vinyl sheeting, planks or tiles, the hardwood won't "telegraph" minor differences in height, and minor surface irregularities, so the subfloor doesn't have to be absolutely perfect; it should be sound, strong, uniform and essentially level. Your flooring contractor can give you specifics on what upgrades your subfloor may need once the original hardwood is removed. Joists If the floor is significantly not level in parts, or if certain areas feel spongy when you walk on them, I recommend you have your flooring contractor, a home inspector, or structural engineer inspect the subflooring and especially the floor joists. You don't want to invest in a new floor, only to have it become damaged because some joists weren't attended to. Transitions Transitions (a.k.a. thresholds or molding) between existing rooms and the new floor ought to be made of the same wood and same finish (stain, polyurethane, etc.) as the new flooring you are putting down. As wood ages, the finish becomes darker, so trying to make the transitions match the finishes of existing floors is very difficult and not recommended (what will match those floors right now won't match later after your transitions age up a bit). Eventually, the transitions wouldn't match either the new or the old floors! Transitions come in four types: reducer (when the two floors being joined are of different heights), seam binder (when the floors are the same height, and the boards from each are very close to one another), T-mold (when the two floors are the same height, but there is a crack between the two rooms' flooring) and stair nose or stair edger (when the flooring needs to curve around the front of a stair's "tread"--the flat part of a stair upon which you tread!). The transitions for your particular project can be ordered when you order the hardwood, so make sure to include measurements for those doorways/entrances. The contractor can tell you if he/she anticipates there will be a height difference or gap between the floorings, which would require those particular transitions. Dry Air Concerns Consult a local lumber supplier or flooring contractor familiar with your local climate conditions to discuss finishes or other tips for keeping your wood floors healthy in the dry winters. Sounds wonderful! Have fun!

Estimate for Hardie? I didn't but only b/c we got got the painting done for "only" $8k (note that I have a dutch colonial: brick 1st floor, only painting to be done was 2nd floor (white cedar shingles) and tiny kitchen porch railings and 6 window shutters.) This was after estimates for $15k and $12k IIRC. If we were planning to stay here long term I'd definitely reside next time. (Would research to see whats new first. There's a faux cedar shingle called "Cedar Impressions" another 1920s house used. They also have color choices like Hardieboard. That home looks new still - been at least 5 years since they resided. In another part of my town with tear downs/new construction: all have composite siding - so I'd go find out what they have. I don't ever see new builds with wood siding here.) As I get older anything I can do to make maintenance easier/less often is worth considering. I'd guess that the labor hours for residing is similar to that of painting - so probably wouldn't cost that much more. (Labor is, by far, the biggest cost to paint - sounds like in your area too as goodness knows paint doesn't cost $15k.) But finding a skilled carpenter is probably harder than finding a painter here.

Ipe is definitely your best option. It's the most durable and cost-effective product in the long run. If the porch surface is exposed to the weather, then it's true you don't want to use T&G. If you go with square-edge decking, we recommend 3/32" gaps between boards rather than 1/16" to allow for ventilation, moisture runoff, and movement.