Hi, I have gardened in Utah (including Logan), other parts of Utah, and Alaska. Your county extension service can be of help. Also, I would recommend the book All-New Square Foot Gardening. It is great for beginning to experienced gardeners. The book also contains charts to help you know when to plant what plus information to keep plants warmer and extend your growing season. Generally vegetables that are grown for their leaves can handle and many even prefer cooler temperatures and can be planted several weeks before your last frost and again a few weeks before the first frost in the fall. These include lettuce, spinach, cabbage, and broccoli. Peas are also in the catagory. The fruit producing plants including tomatoes, peppers, squashes, and melons require warmer temperatures and so should be planted after your first frost. They should be planted soon after your first frost so you are more likely to harvest a crop before they freeze in the fall. Find your zone: http://www.almanac.com/content/plant-hardiness-zones You may be able to protect your garden from children by involving them in it - showing them what you are doing and allowing them to help. Also, with their parents permission allow them to try some of what you grow. As far as the dog I think you would need to construct a barrier some how. The trellis system in the book mentioned above may help depending on how boisterous the dog is. Here is a link that might be useful: Extension Service Locator

That gives me even more encouragement, seeing as Northern Utah is only a half zone warmer than I am. That needle palm does look really rough though. However, I am shocked that 20 foot trachy is growing unprotected and has survived so long. If it hasn't died from the cold yet in 20 years, it's likely it isn't dying a slow death, but is surviving and is capable of tolerating those low temps. Those smaller trachys also seem to be thriving, and are bigger and fuller each year, despite defoliation. I don't know what would've posessed someone to buy all of those big queen palms and big Mex. fan and try to overwinter them in zone 7. It seems like a waste of money. The filifera are probably worth a shot. I'll probably try one at my house, hoping that the leaves will grow back every year if I protect it in the winter. Thanks for the pics. That's what zone pushing is all about.

You should inquire about "crusher fines" which is the stond dust and fractured particles of aggregate after crushing and screening to no larger than 3/8-inches by atsm standards. This is essentially the same material, albeit not necessarily derived from crushing granite but deposits of a number of different rock material. It will have the same desired effect of suppressing weed growth while providing an attractive background and paving material. Try mixing with 8-20% portland cemdnt and a little lime to a four-inch depth for what is essentially concrete. We mix it in with a small tiller afted laying it down, then screed, compact and water thoroughly. Wait 24 hours of more for complete hardening and 32 days for a full cure. You can also decorate with insets of just about anything including boulders, cobblez, glass, other stone or flagstone steppers and pavers as islands and leave voids or knockouts for water features or statuady and spreading plants.. One caution against any material heavy in clay. The quarry can wash it all they want, but never remove all the clay which promotes weed growth in the landscape.

I moved my Hibiscus indoors last month when the nights got a little nippy and it is looking crappy. I should have added lights maybe. My houseplants look ok but maybe I should add some lights too. They are on a wire rack with 4 shelves. I need to add some wheels so when I come in the basement through the lower level stairs I can get through without fighting a jungle of house plants. It is a south facing door that is half window. Last winter was ok, but thjat was before adding Sabal palm, Hibiscus, Ponytail palm, Desert rose, Money tree, Hoyia (if I spelled it right). Bird of Paradise. Those I've had for a couple years are, Parlor palm, The Norfolk island palm, a plant that I can't remember the name of and I would need tpo go to the basement to see if there are any others. My Desert rose flowered this summer, yeah! That may be easy and not worth celebration, but yeah! antway, til I know different. I will be making a shelter around my Ensete banana or my palm (needle?) I have some Styrofoam and wooden pieces I can use for protection of something tender to zone 6 elements. I don't want to make it too soon and bake the plants, but too late isn't good either. Anyone have a timetable for zone 6 Pa or roundabouts this area? I should be asking Arctictropic when to take in the tender flowering/ fruiting Hibiscus. You have accomplished something really great to get fruit on a potted plant. I am sorry for going off topic. Please elaborate on your methods. Do you protect outdoors til fruit starts to bud on? I love Longon fruit, if it is the orange peach type fruit. In Florida in March of 2012, I was able to collect some ripe off the tree and brought some home for my dad. If it wasn't Longon it was a name I can't remember. They are commonly put in Asian food buffets for desserts. They are better right off the tree of course. They are zone 8. I hope I can get a fruit piece with a seed in it when I go to an Asian buffet. I go at least every 3 weeks, but the fruit is usually canned anmd seeds are usually not missed in the canning process.