Weeping cherry should be graft compatible and will still weep if so. I don't know about pollination, my weeping cherry looks like a prunus avium (sweet cherry ancestor) but there are different types of weeping cherry. Scott

Natural cherry is going to darken to pretty much the same color in any brand. There may be a difference in the amount of color variation depending on the grade of cherry used. Most of the darkening happens in the first 6 months or so. Here is a picture of our natural cherry kitchen taken after the family room remodel when the flooring was replaced. The toe kick covers hadn't been reinstalled when this picture was taken. (We knew we were going to do the family room later so we didn't change the flooring when we did the kitchen remodel.) The cabinets are about 6 years old here so about as dark as they will get: I've heard on this forum that stained cherry doesn't darken much. The color contributed by the stain doesn't darken and masks some of the color change of the cherry. Our first idea was to go with natural maple for the kitchen to keep it very light. We were worried about dark cabinets making it to dark. But every time I saw pictures of cherry kitchens I loved the warmth of them and cherry went so well with counter top colors we liked. We find the cherry dark enough to add some warmth and color variation to our kitchen without making it too dark. Our kitchen faces slightly north of west, but there are redwoods and other tall trees and a wing of the house shading the kitchen window. We don't find the natural cherry too dark. We used natural maple when we replaced the floor.

bmorepanic- I've know you're a frequent poster so I was pretty sure you were okay, but I just wanted to be sure! Getting the right tone can be so difficult online. I really like that 1/2 round table, BTW. Is that Scherrs or DIY? Angie- Skytrain, US Navy retired! Went on to fly GIII, but the handle is stuck. Mixed hardwood drawer boxes are one of the Scherrs options that's less expensive than the solid cherry. Here's one of the coolest things about working with Scherrs: I wanted that micro/convection combo wall oven lower than standard because I didn't want to be reaching up and over a hot oven door to pull out a heavy pan, like at my SIL's house. So I talked to Leon and told him about how high I wanted it, and then said, I want the cabinet above to be able to hold full-sized sheet pans (it's got those dividers for sheet pans and pizza trays and a pizza peel and cutting boards), and then make the cabinet above the size of whatever is left over. Then, however high that top cabinet above the wall oven turns out, the ones on top all along the left side have to match that height, whatever it is. Dang, I just remembered that I still need to get glass for those glass-front doors. Obviously I never use anything in there. Also, FYI, if you couldn't tell, the cabinets are all 30" deep with 27" pullouts, uppers 15" deep and set higher off the countertop than normal, 22", so that stuff would fit under them, such as mixer and coffee maker. The customization you can do with Scherrs is wonderful!

I've done jobs with different oil products but used the Rubio only twice. One turned out perfect. It was a mix of White and Pure on rift sawn White Oak. The owner insisted on using a green finish with no solvents and I warned her it was fine except for potential issues with dog accidents. You can probably guess what happened. The second was Super White that we water popped. It ended up with some cloudy areas which points out issues with finishing technique. The floor needs to be sanded perfectly and scrupulously cleaned before oil application, and the finish needs to be removed completely or it will be cloudy. I just finished a natural color job with WOCA. It turned out nice in the end but took a bit of work. We washed the freshly sanded floor with the Wood Cleaner. The effect of the water made the floor look less smooth than desired. We tried extra coats, abraded with an abrasive nylon pad then re-oiled to the same end. Then we re-screened the floor, applied two more coats and it looks great. I think I'd forgo the cleaning step in the future. I like the idea of the Rubio and even have enough material in stock to do my own floor however I like the ease of maintenance and relative simplicity of the WOCA product line. The Rubio Soap is crazy expensive IMO. Coloring my opinion is that my local Rubio distributor is somewhat pathetic. I found a distributor in GA that carries WOCA and Rubio so that will at least put that issue to rest and give me a resource with expertise to draw on. I like the Rubio Smoke, Fumed and Precolor products for the breadth of unique looks it can achieve when used with their products. The bad? It requires more routine maintenance than poly. It's more susceptible to minor spills and stains. You are unlikely to find maintenance product for sale locally, so stock up. I have two older parquet floors in a wood that's no longer available. I plan on sanding it, wire brushing it, then applying a mix of White and Super White with the idea that the floor will go from it's current dark mahogany look, to a coffee with cream color with white in the deeper grain. I don't know that I'd use it in my own kitchen even though I can pay my own workers to change it fairly effortlessly. I am something of a skeptic when reading the claims of the wonders of the new generation of oil finishes, even though I'd like them to be true.