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Henry, I've talked with Alma and her major professor about her thesis. It's one of those written as chapters suitable for publication. Both told me that the two (of four total) that deal with RRD (then) are the two published in Weed Science with several co-authors. Can your library access Weed Science? If not, let me know. Cutting off an infected cane HAS to be done before the virus moves down into the roots (assuming stem meristem infection) and back out. I've saved several roses from different classes in my yard by catching the problem when only a single leaf node (or three on one side of the cane) were infected in fall. I saved an American Pillar in spring when it was out on a cane about ten feet from the roots. I've never saved a HT, and I've only seen RRD on HTs in spring. That may have something to do with the transmission times in fall to late fall. The one thing that (I don't think) has been addressed is what it is about RRD that ultimately kills the host rose. Epstein and Hill reported a lack of sugar to starch conversion in long infected canes. The odd thing that I watched this year was that some roses I've watched for four years finally got down to scrawney, skinny leaves often with PM and then they died in May (which was not a time of drought or too much rain- just really nice weather.) We know from Glen Viehmeyer and Percy Wright that both saw RRD overwinter in the colder parts of Canada. I don't think we know much about temperature and the whole batch of EMARviruses.

Buford stated: "RRD does cause excessive red growth that last longer than normal along with soft thorny canes." H.Kuska comment: I suggest that the above be modified to: "RRD may cause excessive red growth that last longer than normal along with soft thorny canes." The reason for the modification is that both Ann Peck and others show RRD infected roses without the red color. In the Pathologist's article linked to here see the growth on the left side of the picture labeled: Leaf and flower deformation (L); Red coloration, shoot elongation and hyperthorniness (R). (note there are 2 sick branches or roses, the (L) stands for the symptoms of the branch or rose on the left, the (R) stands for the branch or rose on the right Now, with that modification there is still a problem with the "last longer than normal" part of the statement as the point is to remove the cane with symptoms or bush early before the "possibility infected" bush becomes a source of further infection in one's rose garden. --------------------------------------------- Regarding "Hyper thorniness" Ann Peck's book states: "Hyper thorniness is not a dependable indication of RRD, it does alert rosarians to be vigilant. It appears on some HTs, but sick OGRs and roses related to 'R. multiflora' may have thorns no denser than ususal. Further confusing diagnoses, many classes of old garden roses are extremely thorny and no one could look at a sick rugosa, damask, or spinossissima and declare it�s hyper thorniness to be aberrant. Likewise basal breaks on some healthy HTs appear thornier closer to the bud union, but become less thorny with increasing healthy growth. This year, I have also seen a characteristic of some roses from cold hardy breeding programs to have denser thorns near the base; these roses have a built in rodent deterrent that I had not noticed until a question from New Brunswick about the possibility of RRD in that part of Canada."

I'm a volunteer dealing with RRD in a zoo here in SE Virginia. Roses have been removed everywhere but the formal rose garden, and yet losses continue. The garden is on a point, so the infection may be coming from homes on the other side of the river. The KnockOut hedge that enclosed the garden has been replaced by hollies, and lantana has replaced the border of Flower Carpet roses in front. But within the garden it's all roses. For now. The hort department has mentioned that they are planning to replace some of the roses with gardenias but this growing season has gone by without any changes. This garden is close to my heart as the roses are modern shrubs and antiques mixed, not just rows of stiff hybrid teas. It's an organic garden; chemicals are not used anywhere in the zoo. (Sorry, no miticide!)