As I stated in my original post. I can give you some numbers if you're interested but I won't post actual documents. Sorry, it's a legal thing. By the way, you may be on to something regarding the diet but my gut feeling is that differences in diet will only go so far. Their physiology is very different from cows, horses, etc. (primarily how their body uses water, which I'm guessing affects solute concentrations in their tissues and waste). I could be wrong but I'd be willing to bet that it's going to be salty regardless. I'm also taking into account the fact that zoos will usually try to mimic the diet that their species typically has access to. Anyway, I have averaged out some results and here are a few of the highlights. The salinity level of the camel manure typically came in around 30 to 35 dS/m. For comparison, a soil salinity level of 3.0 dS/m is considered elevated and could cause some plants to start showing foliage burn and reduced vigor. (Another fun factoid I'll throw in here just for kicks ECw of sea water is around 40 dS/m or so.) Of course, you would be amending with the stuff rather than planting directly into it so let's explore that a little more. Let's say you were amending a sandy loam soil at a typical compost rate of 4 cu. yds. per 1000 sq. ft., tilled to a depth of 6 inches. (to get an organic content of approximately 20% by volume.) That would raise your salinity by about 10 dS/m, which would be on top of whatever the salinity level in the soil was before you started amending. 10 dS/m alone would be enough to cause most plants to show burning and stunting. Many plants would just plain die. Also consider the fact that about 70% of the salinity level is coming from soluble sodium. (around 250 milliequivalents per liter) Also, soluble chloride was found to be around 200 to 300 milliequivalents per liter. The high sodium and chloride values brings up the specific toxicity issues I described above. Also the abundant sodium is not balanced by calcium and magnesium and you end up with an SAR of around 35 or so. (An SAR of 6 is considered elevated) and use of such a high sodium / low calcium and magnesium material could bring about an elevated SAR in the soil, which can impede soil structure and water infiltration. I also noticed something else that I'd forgotten about. The boron values in the samples I'm looking at come in at about 5 to 6 parts per million (ppm) in saturation extract. If used at the 4 cu. yd. rate, this would be likely to bump the boron level above the threshold at which a broad range of plants start to show boron toxicity symptoms (burning of foliage and poor growth performance). The really fun part about boron is that it does not leach readily and, consequently, correcting an elevated boron level in the soil is particularly challenging. Could you use it at a very low rate and avoid the problems? Well sure, but like I said before, a rate low enough to avoid the problems would provide very little benefit compared to other materials. Of course, maybe all camel manures aren't equal but with the information I have, I would stick with something less exotic.

This thread is making me so happy I saved this Krossa Regal. For years the poor thing languished in a dry spot. I kept reading all these glowing reports about that particular hosta, and looked at my pathetic specimen. I thought it must have been mislabeled. A couple of years ago I noticed it had diminished so badly the leaves were the size of teaspoons. So finally I decided to do something about it. Honestly I felt like it was a waste of time. The roots were so tiny. But I potted it up and cared for it and put it back in the ground in a much better spot for the winter. Then last year we were having construction done and I had to dig it up again. It spent the winter in a pot sunk in the garden. I have now planted it in a good spot, I hope. This is what it looks like now.

4. just like vermiculite

Got another estimate - this one for American Standard equipment. They wanted $6500 for the 13 SEER, and $7400 for the 14 SEER, installed. This estimate was to replace main unit only, no electrical panel replacement, no thermostat, just the box. The first estimate did include measuring output at each register and damping/ adjusting to make them all output equally. (the house is a long (102') Ranch, and the u nit is on one end. There is s noticeable drop-off on the far end...) This second estimate did not include that. Both were for R410 systems. I do not have gas available, and am not interested in putting in a tank. I am in TN, and our electric rates are about as low as it gets in the US - under $.08 per KW... The first estimate was from a big, very professional company that has been in business for many years and have offices all over the country. The second was a small local shop that, after talking to, I do not have much confidence in. The first was very thoroughly written out in detail, the second, just a phone call with "... it'll be about $6500 - $7400, depending on which model you want...", despite asking specifically for a written quote. While still on the phone, the second guy wanted to know when he could come over and get started. What advantage does the variable speed blower give me? What is the difference between the XL13 and the XB13?