Sorry, the purple,red, yellow leaves have shriveled up and dropped but the leaves are still tiny at about palm wide and hand long. I forgot to take pictures, but there doesn't seem to be any holes in the stem(which is about a cm thick) although there are tiny holes scattered on the leaves.

I don't have an answer for you, but I do have a similar circumstance with my broccoli plants. One day recently I noticed that the mulch beside one of my plants was disturbed. Basically, the mulch had been scratched aside near the plant. Within a day or two, the plants leaves turned purple. I don't honestly know the two events are connected, though the coincidence seems odd. The plant has since grown new green leaves, but the original purple ones remain. Growth of the plant has been severely retarded, though it didn't die and would seem to be in good health at the moment. None of my other broccoli plants were affected, and they are all now much larger than the purple plant. I would also mention in the interest in providing all of the available clues to the mystery, that my garden is enclosed on all sides with netting of one sort or another. There are no holes larger than that of chicken wire for critters to get through, including on the ground underneath... I overachieved a bit in my war on garden pests. If anyone can explain the purple leaf issue I'd certainly be interested to hear it.

Kelly: My order from RU also comes this week: Poisedon, Munstead Wood, Dee-lish, and Lady of Shalott. Granular gypsum is sold cheaper at feed-store or at Menards at $4.59 for 25 lb. bag. Despite being next to a limestone quarry, my soil-test came back barely adequate in calcium , due to calcium bind up with magnesium and phosphorus at high pH. Gypsum made a BIG DIFFERENCE in my tomato. For many years my cherry tomato would crack in rain, then it gets mushy & watery at hot temp. After using gypsum, my cherry-tomato are firm & crunchy & thicker skin and no longer crack with heavy rain. If the bottom of the hole is too hard to dig, I put gypsum, pour in some water, take a break. When I come back, the 17% sulfur in the gypsum soften the hard-clay at bottom, so I can dig deeper for drainage.

If you are growing these plants in just 100% peat moss, then it is extremely likely you do have nutrient deficiencies - peat has virtually NO nutritive value. But this is very often the case with any container grown plant - container 'soils' generally have components that possess minimal, if any, nutrient levels. All nutrient needs must be supplied by the grower via fertilization. But there are other reasons aside from nutrient availability than can affect blooming, including the age of the plant, seasonality (the plant's internal calendar), vernalization (an appropriate chill period) and how it was propagated or if any pruning has been done. It sounds very much like your set-up is similar to that of greenhouse grown hydrangeas and greenhouse grown hydrangeas tend to be on a rigorous course of fertilization, growth hormones and light/temperature manipulation to encourage them to bloom early and out of season.