Use something like Fish emultion as a nitrogen source instead of a chemical/salt source. I've found that using fish emultion and seaweed extract in 1/8 to 1/10th doses every time I water works great. During budding I cut the Fish emultion down and use Alaska Morebloom instead of seaweed extract. I also use Foli Cal in 1/4 strength during blooming and with C.Chinense all the time. I think Fish Emultion gets eaten up by so many things that it never overdoses the plant like Bat Guano or blood meal can do. I've found that a constant low dose of organic ferts. works better than a scheduled dose of chemical ferts that are a roller coaster ride for the plant. I give my plants a regular dose that is small that they can use all the time. Organic ferts have to break down before they can be used by the plant where salts hit the roots all at once and can burn roots or cause the plant to overdose for a short time. I think it would be hard to overdose a plant with fish emultion as far as burnt roots etc go. It has to break down into amoniam nitrate before the plant can use it which doesn't happen at a rate that can hurt your plant. I grow in containers only and my soil mixes use a lot of wood products in them so as they break down they obsorb a lot of nitrogen.Lock it up so the plant can't use it until it breaks down more latter on.

Okay, I have just changed my mind about the grubs being an early stage of the fly - I just went out and found a huge one (well, comparatively) on the back of one of my spinach leaves. I managed to get a shot of it (check the link below) - and you can see the larger one near the top of the picure. Handily, there's one of the size I'm used to seeing near the middle of the photo for comparison. If anyone can identify these little buggers for me that would be amazing! Here is a link that might be useful:

Having just done most of this research for my own leafy green ...here's what I can contribute. You are right 2200 is WAY too high...actually for most leafy greens 1100 is going to be too high for lettuce, but not spinach. The website that found the most helpful would beluv2garden.com. They had the most hydroponic crop profiles I have ever come across. I also found a great table of pH/cF/ppm needs for all sorts of vegetables: Veggie pH/EC chart I have found that if you start at 0 ppm (or as close as you can get)...RO water is a must if you don't have an RO system, I'd consider the investment b/c you lose more in plants than you'll spend on a bare bones RO system...& as the plant goes into each growth stage I dial it up gradually w/ nutes & try to peak out in the median of the range of the given ppm's. That strategy has worked out way better than aggressive feeding ever has for me. Plus, you need to keep in mind that TDS meters are not all calculating the same. Total Dissolved Solids (ppm) is reached by taking the Electrical Conductivity (EC - measured in mS/cm) value & performing a calculation, but I read that not every TDS meter uses the same alghorithm. Here is the link to the article if you want to nerd it up like I did. Greentrees Hydroponics: EC vs. TDS I just recently started learning about Oxidation-Reduction Potential (ORP). Nature is amazing. I'd be willing to guess that you've learned a lot of this & more over the last month. Experience is a valuable learning tool. Good luck!

Thanks Phkarchuk! Someone just told me in another forum that it's botanical name is Cleome gynandra. It looks like a perfect match from everything I see online. And yes I have just read elsewhere too that a pickle/relish is made from it in Thailand.