Lacebug becomes a problem when certain varieties of rhododendrons are placed in too much sun. This keep natural predators of lacebugs from controlling them since the predators (spiders usually) don't like sun and the lacebugs don't mind it. So if you like the plants otherwise, just put them were there is more shade and they will be much happier and no spraying will be necessary. Some recommendations to replace Unique: Belle Heller - 5', -10F. Here is hardiness, sun tolerance, lush foliage, and a lovely flower all in one. The large flower is pure white with a striking gold blotch, set in large, ball shaped trusses on a vigorous grower. Boule de Neige - 5', -25F. Bright green, leathery leaves on a medium sized, rounded rhododendron. It's known for its heat and sun tolerance and is extremely cold hardy. Flowers are snow white in ball shaped trusses. It even blooms well in deep shade. Chionoides - 4', -10F. Tolerant of the sun and cold, this compact hybrid grows beautifully even when planted in locations often considered too exposed for a rhododendron. A broad, dense cushion measuring 5-6' high develops as the plant matures. White, dome trusses are bright and numerous. Disca - 5', -15F. The fragrant frilled flowers open a pale pink that fades to white. 'Disca' is also a late bloomer (June). Tests as resistant to root rot and is sun and heat tolerant.

Thanks Joe. You are right about the heat. I'm in Santa Barbara and this is more heat that many of my garden plants have ever been through. Summer heat here is usually way mitigated by marine layer. These last few days really took down some of those Spring things that can usually hang on through June gloom: sweet peas, early poppies, some of the campanulas, the wild flowers, etc. Lots of garden clean up this weekend. So, if lavatera is a fall/winter annual, I wonder why Annies didn't have the seedlings ready until April? So, the leaf curling might have just been the heat? I should have checked my email earlier. I was wondering if the plant was suffering some kind of root pest. So early this evening I took a shovel to it to look at the root ball, only to find that the seedling was already rooted 12" deep and looked perfect. So, it sounds like its too late for lavatera this year? Are you saying that the enjoyment of the blooms is winter and spring, but not summer? Any replacement ideas for a 30" terra cotta planter. I was really looking forward to the shrub like nature of lavatera. Seems like I've seen some kind of perennial lavatera/mallow sold in nurseries, but I don't remember seeing any ones with large white blooms. Sigh. Thanks for your advice regarding sowing direct. I have found that many of the transplants that have not worked for me have been because they really need direct sowing. Of course I find out the hard way. Sincerely, Kristine

Jerry, hard to tell with the dead branches, since we can't see the stems. Prune it back to live wood, and cleanse your pruners with 1:10 bleach with each cut. The first and largest problem I see is all the grass under your tree. Your citrus is going to be in competition continually for both macro and micronutrients with the grass, which is a big nitrogen hog. Get rid of the grass from under your tree, out to the drip line or beyond (edge of canopy). Also, make sure your citrus is not getting sprinkled by your lawn sprinklers. Citrus really do not like their trunks hit with lawn sprinklers, it can eventually kill a young citrus tree. Create a nice well under your tree, and water deeply once a week (twice if it is really hot and dry). The chlorosis you see I suspect is due to the competition from the grass. You should be fertilizing with prescribed amounts of a citrus fertilizer every 2 to 3 months. I've included a link to your local U of Florida Extension program for citrus pests, and I would definitely do a little searching through this site. This is your resource for where you live for citrus, and you should find a lot of great info on their site. Another link on their site, Dooryard Citrus Culture & Care will help you understand how to grow citrus at home, and the best conditions for your home citrus: U of Florida IFAS Extension: Cultural Practices for Dooryard Citrus Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: U of Florida IFAS Extension: Citrus Problems in the Home Landscape

It appears to be a newly emerged leaf; the veins are greener than the surrounding tissue. This is not too unusual but you have some experience with the crop and therefore it is significant. I think that it is a nutrition symptom. If you did not fertilize, try some starter type fertilizer -preferably water soluble- which can be applied over the top. Go very lightly. Half dose is recommended. If you did apply fertilizer then it might be a problem of uptake. Too little water; slow release etc.