Remove the clips in the housing that press to the top side of the ceiling. If there is joists, holding strapping, holding drywall, cut two pieces of new strapping 16" long and place them perpendicular to the joists and parallel to each other on each side of the hole. You may have to wiggle them a bit to get them in place, but make sure that all of the ends of the new wood are under the nearest joists so that when you push up they will not go anywhere. Sand or plane them if necessary, don't force them under the joists because you might crack or deform the ceiling. If the hole is too close to an existing piece of strapping you may have to round out an edge of the new stuff. If the hole touches a piece of existing strapping then just use one piece of the new stuff and put it on the opposite side of the hole. Pre-drill two holes opposite each other in the housing, a half inch from the bottom. Using three quarter inch drywall screws, secure the housing to the strapping through the predrilled holes. You don't have to crank it in, the units with lamps only weigh about a pound, and you don't want to distort the unit. Just make sure it finishes nearly flush with the ceiling. Spackle and paint, then install the trim. This is the hard part because the ceiling doesn't have a smooth finish.

What type ceiling lights should be used in gypsum false ceiling. Living room area 300 sq ft Bedroom-1 ...200 sqft Bedroom-2... 250 sq ft Bedroom-3 200 sq ft Dinning area - 150 sqft Light options available : (a) Cob down light (B) cob spot light (C) flat panel light All of above led I am suggested to use cob spot light All over the house 12 w each Personally like cob down light (daylight) feel cob spot light would be too loud ...as compared to down light which is soft. Please give suggestions / opinion. Regards Kishor

The rooms are open to each other but have visual cues to indicate divisions; I don't know how to describe it... In the entry is the flush pendant; if you walk to the left, through a 4' wide opening with header, you are in the front living room with all can lights + eyeball can that shines on the fireplace; through that room the walls notch in about 12" on each side of the 8' wide opening with header...I think that space used to have doors based on how it's cased around the opening. This is the room where I want to change the light fixture. It was originally a small formal dining room w/chandelier but we're using it as a cozy tv space instead--and keeping it open to the living room/entry--so chandelier needs to be changed (plus I don't like the style). From the entry you can see the dining chandelier in the tv room; the fixtures are about 20-25' apart. I didn't change the chandelier initially because I wanted to be sure changing the rooms use would make sense for us. The house doesn't feel cohesive so as I make changes I want to tie it together better. Will the shade (behind the chandelier in my photo) look odd with the shade of the oatmeal light that 1929Spanish-GW posted?

I don't think you necessarily have to have pendants or a chandelier in your kitchen. You're right, they will just interfere with the sightline. They work if your island is what separates the kitchen from the family room. If you look at pictures on Houzz you'll see what I mean. I don't have them over my island and I don't miss them. When it comes time to remodel I will not add them. My kitchen is roughly the same size as yours. I have four can lights, one in each corner of the room. They are 2+ feet from the walls. You want to put them so they line up with the edge of your counters. If they're too close to the wall cabinets they create an uncomfortable glare and shadows on the cabinets. Also install under and over cabinet lighting. The under is good for lighting the counters and over is nice to leave on at night when you're just walking through the room or popping in and out for a drink or snack. Put all of your lights on dimmer switches.