Senior gardening. Toning it down and dealing with fatigue
susanzone5 (NY)
5 years ago
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Looking down on your garden
Comments (18)Colebug, I'm glad the photos were helpful. Isabelle's comment "From my second story I see the large shapes and the large foliage drifts that are not as evident close-up" is something we amateur gardeners often forget. Detail gets lost as distances increase. Tiny flowering plants, like Coleonema 'Breath of Heaven', for instance, make a sizable impact only when they get large enough. In the last photo with the Tibouchina heteromalla, for instance, you can hardly notice the 2' tall coleonema in front of it, at the base of the solar lamppost. Two years later, now it's big enough to have an impact, both straight-on and from above - it has sufficient width to overcome the tiny flowers: Warning now follows: those who object to variegated plants being mixed together, shouldn't look. I love 'em, and mix them all the time. Last year one of my weekly emails of garden photos to my friends was titled "Close...Closer...Closest". It speaks to laag's posting of how infill (plants) are being used instead of mulch. Normally I compose my photos very tightly and pick the best one to send around. In this case, I liked all three, and realized they showed a progressive look at emerging details as one got closer to the bed. This bed is the same one shown in the photos above, but the 'Aureum' Japanese maple has been replaced by a variegated euonymous - the 'Aureum' couldn't take even the modest amount of sun this bed receives, and the leaves turned brown and crispy! I think the euonymous will do fine here although it lacks the elegant shape of the maple. I'm not entirely pleased by pink flowers with a yellow-green shrub, mind you - OTOH, this bed takes virtually no water, little pruning, and never seems to have any pests. I can't argue with success, Mother Nature-style....See MoreBuilding a Raised/Elevated Garden Bed for Senior Center
Comments (4)Oh ... don't put rocks in the raised bed. There is absolutely no benefit to be had from doing that. Yes, that will take a lot of soil to fill. However you can get it cheaply (compared to bagged prices) by the cubic yard, delivered. A 4x10 bed that is "thigh high" - what is thigh high? About 24"? Or more like 30"? Assume that it is 24". So that is 4x10x2, which is about 3 cu yards, for one bed. Of course you don't want to fill it all the way to the top but that's a ballpark figure. For 2 beds, obviously, that's about 6 cu yards needed. You want clean screened topsoil. You should have someone knowledgable about garden soils inspect it before you buy and have it delivered to make sure it is satisfactory. It should cost in the area of $15 (give or take a few bucks) per cubic YARD (not cubic foot). There is usually a delivery charge, but they usually won't charge that if you are getting 10 cu yards or more delivered. Maybe your scout leader could negotiate a remittance or reduction of the delivery fee since its for a senior center. Or maybe you could build an extra bed! And use some of the dirt to beef up their ornamentals or flower beds! I doubt there is anyway to back a dump truck up to the beds themselves so you will need a spot where it can be dumped, and you young strong Eagle Scouts should start trucking the dirt over to the raised beds in wheelbarrows. If the raised bed is 2' or more high, a small moveable ramp (can be made from wood scraps) might be helpful in getting the front of the wheelbarrow high enough up to dump over the lip. 6 eagles scouts armed with one shovel apiece and 3 wheelbarrows should make short work of the process. One eagle scout on either side of the wheelbarrow to dump it. Keep moving the wheelbarrow down the line to dump the soil. There should be room to dump from either side. So, Dump on one side, then Dump on the other, then move down the line. This way you won't have to spread it as much. As to the raised beds. Although 4' widths are typical for raised beds, older folks and shorter folks (such as myself, who woke up one morning to discover I was now a member of both categories) have difficulty reaching that far in. Consider making them 3' wide instead. And then consider making 3 beds to make up for the loss of growing space. It depends on how much space they have. Be sure to leave PLENTY of space in pathways between the beds and anything else nearby to allow for the passage of wheel chairs, walkers, and rolling garden scooters and carts. I suggest 4' minimum clearance per side if possible so people can always get around each other. 5' or even 6' would probably be better. Not to be indelicate, but ... human beings who have reached an advanced age sometimes find themselves in a situation where any impedance in getting to a bathroom could result in a humiliating experience. Among other things. There are a LOT of reasons to make sure there is plenty of space to move around. Safety considerations, for example. The less chance of someone taking a tumble because access pathways are crowded, the better. At your age, tripping and falling down results in maybe a skinned knee and possibly some embarrassment at your own clumsiness; at my age, it could result in a broken hip and a long slow (or not so slow) decline to the end. You absolutely CAN use modern pressure treated wood to construct raised beds. The new stuff does not leach like the old stuff, and the old stuff didn't leach that much until it was itself fairly advanced in years. The old stuff was treated with arsenic and that is mostly what could leach into the soil. However, unless your plants are significantly deficient in (I think) potassium? or phosphorus?, they don't take up arsenic, so the risk was always pretty minimal. With the new stuff, there is no arsenic. The only thing that leaches into the soil is a very small amount of copper. Copper is actually a dietary requirement (in small amounts). And again, plants take up little or no copper and it takes decades for this leaching process to take place. Organic standards STILL don't allow for the use of any pressure treated woods, but outside of knee-jerk reactions to PERCEIVED risk (as opposed to ACTUAL risk) there is no reason for concern over the use of modern pressure treated woods in your veggie garden. You can read more about it here and decide for yourself. You could use cement blocks to build the beds instead, which has the added advantage of having a space to sit while working on the bed. Top it with flat pavers or wood for a comfortable ledge upon which the gardener may perch while he or she is at work. It has the advantage of being permanent and sturdy, but the disadvantage of expense. Building up walls that high takes a lotta concrete blocks. It also may winter-heave over time. Depends on your climate. But honestly the easiest thing to do is just build them out of pressure treated wood. The modern stuff is safe for this use. You could build some elevated beds as well. Those would need to be a little higher off the ground - "waist" height (whatever that means) but because they are so high off the ground, crops such as tomatoes could not easily be grown in them. But shorter crops such as peppers and eggplants, cabbage, lettuce, etc. The beds would be more susceptible to drying out than a bed at ground level. If there is time and funding enough, consider installing a drip irrigation system for the beds. Not the expensive underground computer controlled type, but the affordable home gardener type that uses rubber hoses and emitters. Look for Orbit or Rainbird systems. Again some help from a knowledgable gardener would be useful. Contact your local extension agency and ask for help from one of their Master Gardeners or an extension agent. Using quick disconnects (get solid brass fittings so the oldsters don't have to deal with equipment breakdown in a year or two) you can easily set up a permanently installed system that doesn't have exposed hoses for people to trip over 24/7. Just haul a hose out and plug it in when you're watering and then disconnect, coil up and store the main supply hose when its not in use. Everything else will be mounted in the beds where nobody will ever walk. Encourage the use of mulch to cut down on evaporative loss and discourage weeds. In my raised beds, I actually lay down wetted flattened brown corrugated carbon boxes and plant through that, then cover over all with bark mulch. You want undyed 100% wood with no demolition content. This may also be purchased for less than bagged prices if you buy it by the cu yard. Again there are delivery charges etc etc. But a lot of municipalities collect yard waste and grind it up and make it available for little or no cost to city residents. Contact your city and perhaps your leader can negotiate a free or low cost delivery of last year's ground up tree limbs to be used as mulch in these raised beds. Or get some dads with trucks. Remember to leave room for the mulch layer when filling your beds. Also keep in mind that the soil you add to the beds WILL SETTLE. So its a balancing act. Don't order the dirt until the builds are completed and you have volunteers who will definitely show up to move it. Make sure the senior center will have a spot to dump the fill dirt, and that you have sufficient manpower to get it moved in a timely fashion. Be prepared to clean up any construction mess. It's more complicated to talk about it than to actually do it. Here is a link that might be useful: calculator for cubic yards needed...See MoreWho else has white kitchen fatigue?
Comments (150)Not to beat a dead horse...is that the right expression? Ick, it sounds terrible. Not to drag this on, but Teresa, I looked at your post and responded to it. I kind of get why you felt the way you did - because your kitchen is gorgeous and if I were you, I'd probably wonder why nobody responded. But to you - and to others who commented that they did not get any responses to their finished kitchen post - I'd say don't get dismayed and don't take it personally. It could be the time of day or time of year. It could be the number of competing "finished kitchens" that were posted around the same time. It could be that people look but don't comment - because there was nothing they had any questions on. I also know that people who tended to post BEFORE their kitchen is done, with questions and requests for help - tend to get more responses because others feel like they contributed to the poster's success. And it makes others excited to see the finished result. There's more of a "relationship" there for lack of a better word. Anyway, I'm not really sure how to go on about this. Just that it bugs me and I'm not sure why. I wish I could make you and others feel better about it....See MoreTrying to narrow materials and tones for possible 2 toned kitchen
Comments (36)I was just googling around for rooms with little natural light, and I ended up looking at a lot of finished basement or basement apartment interiors and also high-end hotel rooms. The ones that were the most pleasant and inviting (where the lack of natural light was not a noticeable deficit) had kind of a lot going on. Not in an overwhelming way, but those rooms had curtains and wall treatments and knickknacks and area rugs and artwork -- millions of little decor pieces and several layers of decor interest in most areas of the room. In particular, there were a lot of different textures in most of the rooms. It makes sense now that I think about it -- basements and hotel rooms are very bland rooms -- usually no architectural interest of any kind, including lots of big windows and natural light and moldings and all that. Which means the room isn't really pretty on its own. To make it pleasant and charming anyway, you need to bring in a lot of things that are pretty by themselves. And you need enough of them that you don't really notice anymore that the room's bones are bad. So your home, being a house, is likely a lot better than the average basement, but it still suffers from the same lack of natural light. This leads me to the conclusion that, while I also generally prefer a clean, modern type of design in kitchens, I don't think it will suit your house. It will just be so quiet and minimal that your eye will have plenty of opportunity to notice how dark the room is. Like a plain person forgoing makeup and accessories and wearing a simple beige shift. That kind of simplicity works well for the great beauties of this world, but the rest of us look better wearing cute earrings and mascara. However, on the upside, with all the professionally-designed basement spaces I just looked at, it didn't seem to matter at all if the actual elements in the the design were dark. Usually, there was a mix of dark and light. The bigger thing seemed to be that ALL of those rooms had a lot of lighting EVERYWHERE. Pin lights all over the ceiling, lighting on top of cabinets/soffits that diffused on the ceiling, pendant lights, etc. So: 1) I'd mentally set aside a big part of your budget to add lots of lighting. Have under cabinet lights, above cabinet lights, cans, pendants, a chandelier, in-cabinet lights -- whatever. Go nuts. 2) I think you are on the right track with a walnut floor. Walnut has a really interesting grain. It is thoroughly beautiful in its own right and will layer beautifully with anything else you add. Natural materials in particular are great for adding interest without seeming overwhelming or busy. 3) I would not repeat the walnut on the cabinets because, again, I think the super-layered design approach works better in low-light rooms. Cabinets just another opportunity to add interest, and you should take it. Make them a different color or painted or whatever. Also, think about something other than slab. Your floor will be flat walnut. If the cabinets are also flat walnut, then then that is EXACTLY the same thing. Here is an example of a kitchen with a lot of interest (cool tile floor, two cabinet colors -- one that is interesting and bold, glass cabinets with unusual glass, open shelves, unusual cabinet pulls, feet) that still has clean lines and isn't crazy fussy/busy: That is the kind of thing that will hold its own and still look pretty and charming even in the dark months. Also, it would look great with walnut. :D...See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
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