Going to give up on Rainbow's End damaged by southern blight last year
Esther-B, Zone 7a
5 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (12)
Maria 4a zone St.Peterburg,Russia
5 years agodjacob68z5sewi
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Anyone going to use fungicide for tomato blight this year?
Comments (40)The recommended organic spray for late blight is copper. The prices for copper are astronomical on account of copper just costs a lot right now. Last year as usual I grew my tomatoes from seeds. Hearing about late blight, I tried an experiment with straw mulch for my big tomatoes, which is one recommended response. I had my cherries in pots. My neighbor bought his tomato plants. When the blight hit, his plants all dropped dead in a period of two days. My straw-mulched plants didn't do too well, since I was not used to using a straw mulch and didn't notice they needed water as often as I would have otherwise. They did get blight eventually, but it didn't matter much, since the lack of water seriously cut into their production. The plants in pots did okay. Eventually, they did get blight, no doubt from my neighbor's plants. The one that lived longest was Matt's Wild Cherry. I decided that this year I would not grow any tomatoes, that I would buy them from areas of the country that aren't getting late blight, because I just had a feeling that the late blight would be back. Sure enough, it is in PA (I'm 15 mi from PA in NY, so it's just a matter of time). A friend of mine who grows a lot of his own food is growing Matt's Wild Cherry for tomatoes this year and foregoing the copper. Good soil? My plants had very good soil. But it's soil, not a force field. When there is that much disease around, it doesn't matter how good the soil is....See Moresouthern blight and bleach
Comments (15)I don't recommend using the bleach. It kills every living organism in the soil and won't prevent your hostas from getting Southern Blight next year either. Digging up the hostas is a lot of work and unnecessary. Terrachlor is effective to control Southern Blight, but isn't really a curative or preventative. Southern Blight is caused by the fungus known as Sclerotium rolfsii. I believe that the ONLY fungicide currently available that is effective on Sclerotium rolfsii as both a preventative and curative is flutolanil (EPA registered name). This is a relatively new fungicide (last 7 years). Several products are now available which contain flutolanil (in various concentrations) but only a few are labelled for use on ornamentals. Most are designed for commercial application by farmers or greenhouses (such as a product named Moncoat). Two products designed for homeowner's application on ornamentals are Scotts Contrast 70WSP and ProStar 70WP, both identical products but sold under different labels. Read the following article by Iowa State University which introduces the reader to this fungus as found on hostas and mentions the fungicide flutolanil: Iowa State University article Now read the label on Scotts Contrast 70WSP. You can see that it's for treating (preventative and curative) the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii, and that it's labelled for use on ornamentals: Scotts Contrast 70WSP Now read the label for Bayer ProStar 70WP, which is also for Sclerotium rolfsii: Bayer 70WP Last summer, my friend had approximately 200 mature hostas that were devastated by Southern Blight. We did a soil drench application of the Scotts Contrast last fall. We put the recommended amount into a 55 gallon drum and filled it with water. Then we dipped it out and poured it over the hostas with a watering can. We repeated the same procedure this spring just as the hosta eyes were popping up. I'm pleased to report that after thorough inspection throughout the summer, we have discovered only two hostas which show the slightest sign of Southern Blight. We assume we may have missed those plants while applying the fungicide. So the treatment was a huge success! You will probably be unable to find Scotts Contrast or Bayer Prostar at your local garden center. However, you should be able to order it at a grain elevator, or possibly from a farm chemical supplier. You may also be able to purchase it on-line. It's a little pricey, but much cheaper than replacing dozens of hostas. And it goes a long ways. By the way, the 8 oz. bottle is cheaper than buying the package that contains individual water-soluable packets. For anyone who has battled Southern Blight before, I would recommend thoroughly cleaning their beds in the fall, making sure their hostas are planted high in the ground (mounded up rather than in a hole), and that their hosta garden receives adequate ventilation (trim tree branches up, etc.). I also think that applying the Contrast or ProStar to the affected areas in early spring as the hostas are just popping up is an excellent preventative for dealing with the problem later on in the summer. Hope this helps for everyone who is trying to find ways to deal with Southern Blight. Don...See More*sigh*. Southern blight
Comments (4)Yep. That's southern blight. Do NOT till the bed until you have removed the soil from around the area and thrown it away. Replace with fresh soil. Make sure to disinfect all tools used in a way that prevents potential spread of the organism. I worked in a lot of organic matter this spring and drenched with B. amyloliquifaciens and B. subtilis and use a lot of coffee grounds (which supposedly are a food source that various Trichodermas like) in the bed where I had it last year. So far, so good. Luckily for me, and, it seems, for you, southern blight doesn't strike until very late, but the down side of that is that I won't know for sure that my efforts have been successful until the end of the season. If they're not, I will try grafting with Maxifort next year. One thing that my efforts seems to have helped is that the bed where I had bacterial wilt problems last year doesn't seem to have those problems this year. Of course, it could also be that what I'm growing there is a variety less prone to the disease. But that's encouraging for me, as it's very hard to find a rootstock that resists both bacterial wilt and southern blight....See MoreBayer Advanced finally arrived for Rainbow's End with Southern Blight
Comments (1)*Chris of Hallson's Gardens reply to this linked post (first reply) is great: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2031433/hosta-blight Oh my... such an unfortunate delay for the mail. It seems to happen to me too, when you need something that is not locally available... somehow it takes eons to arrive. My caveat: I do not have personal experience with fungicide beyond 10% bleach bath- just this info linked below: http://www.hostalibrary.org/articles/SBarticle.htm Per the article linked above: Under the section "My Strategy" paragraphs 4-7... you do not need to dig up the hosta at this point. The Fungi is only at the top layer of soil. The article emphasizes that Southern Blight is like a weed and the main thing for next time is prevention. If it already has southern blight, the damage will be considerable... but about 1/4 have survived for the author. * If there are no little brownish/reddish balls around the base and soil you can drench crown and soil area with Bayer Advanced. * If the Southern blight has set seed/little balls, then first is careful cleanup of any tiny balls - the Sclerotium rolfsii seeds- and removal of top inch of soil Sclerotium rolfsii effected leaves and (discard into a bag seal it and trash it). Then you can drench the area. You can keep an eye on it and dose it again if symptoms arise and it is needed. Next year it may try to grow again in that area....See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
5 years agoMadPlanter1 zone 5
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agozkathy z7a NC
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agozkathy z7a NC
5 years agowindymess z6a KC, Ks
5 years agoEsther-B, Zone 7a
5 years agowindymess z6a KC, Ks
5 years agojosephines167 z5 ON Canada
5 years agojosephines167 z5 ON Canada
5 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESGive Your Turf the Fall Tune-up It Deserves
Treat your battered lawn to a little TLC this fall, and it will reward you with lush, healthy grass come spring
Full StoryLIFE10 Beautifully Simple Ways to Go Greener in the New Year
You may just find more green in your wallet along the way
Full StoryHOUZZ CALLTell Us Your New Year’s Resolutions for Your Home
Share your plans and dreams for your house this year — whether they involve organizing, remodeling or redecorating
Full StoryEXTERIORSRoofing Materials: Slate Makes for Fireproof Roofs That Last
It stands up to weather and fire without losing its high-end look. But can your budget handle it?
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGGet It Done: Store Decorations and Tidy Up Postholidays
Move on to New Year's with a clear conscience, knowing you've recycled thoughtfully and packed carefully to make setup next year easy
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESHow to Design a Garden That Lasts
Climates are changing. Wildlife is evolving. Can your garden keep up?
Full StoryWINDOW TREATMENTSHow Low Should Your Drapes Go?
Hover, brush the floor or pool like Scarlett O'Hara's tears — we give you the lowdown on curtain length options
Full StoryDECLUTTERINGHow to Let Go of Unwanted Books and Magazines
Buried in reading material? This guide will help you decide what to keep and what to give away, sell or recycle
Full StoryHOUZZ TOURSMy Houzz: French Country Meets Southern Farmhouse Style in Georgia
Industrious DIYers use antique furniture, collections and warm colors to cozy up their traditional home
Full StorySponsored
Babka NorCal 9b