ive found ants, spiders and all kinds of vermin in my outside plants and I dread the day they have to come back in the house. Ive been looking for something i could use on the plants. I'll be following this post to see the responses. I just bought a large plant (S. Nicolai) and of course it too had millipedes. i watered it really good and they came out for air. Then i sprayed them with raid ant killer. Im sure I could have handled that better, but when your looking at a bunch of millipedes, you grab the first thing you can get. Needless to say the plant is outside for the summer.

do note.. resin used the Latin ... and this is the latin name for poison sumac: Toxicodendron vernix (Poison Sumac) this is the Latin name for other sumacs .. and i am no scientist.. i am relying on google here: RHUS somethingoranother ... lol ... my point is simply that the more you learn about proper names.. the easier it will all become ... in other words.. a sumac is not a sumac may be a sumac ... 2 names for plants in two different families... but the same common name ... go figure on that .... at the link below... note a little way down... white berries on poison ... which would have ruled out your tree which has nearly black berries.. or now you know.. cherries ... good luck ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

For one, your landlord has definite grounds for a lawsuit for replacement trees, if nothing more, against the neighbor - you can do what you like with vegetation that grows over the property line, but you can't cross over the line to kill it. The neighbor may be liable for damages as well, since he has lowered the property value for your landlord - never mind made an eyesore. Do you know what the neighbor used? I have a feeling that anything injected into the tree is non-removable, and there is little to be done. Depending on what was used, and if the neighbor scattered it around as he was putting it in the tree, it might affect the grass around the tree. I know that the police will regard it as a very minor matter, but if you CAN get a police report or, at a minimum, take dated photos yourself, it might help in any lawsuit. If nothing else, it's a case of trespass and malicious damage. And, not that I doubt you, but are you SURE it is the neighbor doing it? If you have no proof, there may be no redress for your landlord. Witnesses are a big help. And statements in front of witnesses also help. Sorry not to offer more hope about the tree(s), but....

Regarding Imidacloprid Drench, soil inject, or trunk inject. Large trees must be proactively treated, before EAB causes noticeable damage. And if already showing decline, one must apply god-sent Tree-age product until tree recovers. Imidacloprid product must be applied just after ground unfreezes, which is usually April for us in the Midwest. Since peak uptake is needed between end of May and First of July, because Imidacloprid only kills Adults feeding on leaves, and Borer larvae's first two "Instar" stages. So Imidacloprid must kill off all young stage borers, before they reach damaging 3rd and 4th instar stages which Imidacloprid can not kill. Anyone in fear of killing off Honey bees or Earth worms, which settlers both brought over from Europe in 1700's. Must remove any flowering plants under treated tree that might also uptake drench or soil inject. Another proven option is applying Organic Tree-azin and Aza-sol produced naturally from India's Neem tree. Presently these are only approved products available in Canada. All the above only lasts one year, but Tree-age G4 can be purchased and applied by any common tree owner that lasts two years. If anyone would like to learn how to trunk inject themselves, using assembled parts costing under $2 bucks. Just contact me! Know that ALB Asian Longhorn Beetle had been totally eradicated here in Chicago. Since ALB spreads so slow, compared to EAB. Public should also be aware that 99% of Nursury trees arrive today with root flare already too deep in rootball. And require "Root flare excavation" before dug out of field, or installed on parkway. Also be aware that all young trees require "Formative structural pruning" to retain "Apical dominance" completed every few years until age 15-20. And also understory fruit trees with "modified crowns". Enjoy!