Hey Josh and Susan.. Will, aside from the questions Josh asked, did you recently place your tree outside? Find a decent pot, '1-2" larger than the rootball,' use a well-draining soil, water thoroughly, then let be. Do not re-water until soil is crumbly dry. Insert a stick/stake deep in the soil to check. If the stick comes out wet, wait a few days, and retest. In other words, don't keep soil constantly wet. Your Pachira has quite a bit of green, so it's alive. For the time being, refrain from fertliziling. If your tree is outdoors, place in a semi-shady spot. 'especially, if it was recently brought out. MG is fine, but should be amended with Perlite. I use MG, but add coarse sand, and tiny stones, 'smaller than Pea Gravel,' for better drainage. Your Money Tree needs a chance to adapt. If it's being repotted in larger, smaller, more water, less water, more and less fertilizer, there's going to be problems. That's the reason I said, let it be. Toni

Your plant is providing you with indications it has an unhappy root system (I looked at the video), and a healthy plant isn't possible unless the roots are happy. FWIW, the overwhelming % of growers who arrive here seeking help are here because of issues related to poor root health/function. If you can't water your soil to the point where it's fully saturated and at least 15-20% of the total volume of water you applied during the watering process has exited the drain hole, your soil is a limiting factor and you'll be fighting it for control over your plant's health until you get the plant into something more appropriate. Simply adding a large fraction of perlite to an already inappropriate soil is a step in the right direction, but all you end up with is an inappropriate soil with a lot of perlite in it. Additionally, you have the fact that Feb thru Apr are probably the worst months to consider repotting to work around. The extra soil volume you added is counterproductive at this point (increases the impact of issues related to excess water retention), so I think I would probably remove the recently added soil and return the plant to it's old pot, after inspecting the roots for rot and correcting any issues I discover. Then, I would flush the soil thoroughly and learn how to deal with the excess water retention until mid to late Jun when I would repot into something more appropriate. There is more to talk about and more specific instructions, but I'll hold on that until I learn whether or not you're interested in following a course that approaches the situation from the plant's POV, which is essentially making sure the things that are most likely to be limiting your plant are fixed. Al

Hi - Hoping I can get a some help to save my tree... I took some pictures which are below. Only one of my four stems seems to be healthy and growing new leaves. The other three are in various levels of sick. Help! I usually only water when the soil is dry. Lately I've let it dry out a lot because I thought maybe I was over watering it. The tree means a lot to me and I really don't want it to die! Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.This is the only healthy branch. This is the one that's the most sick. You can see that it's started to change color and wrinkle/twist. This one's leaves shriveled up. This is the only healthy branch. and here's the whole tree... looking sad. After reading a lot of these threads, I've stopped watering it. I think I over watered it this winter. I'm not sure if the wrinkled branch is dead or not. Is it possible to cut the tip of it off? Will it regrow? What about the one with the wrinkled leaves? Hoping someone has some advice! Thanks! Carlos

Jane I feel for you. I had the same situation with my Duranta. Like you I brought it with me from KY when we moved here. I had it in a 30 gallon pot for the last five years and every couple years had to wrestle it out of the pot, cut part of the rootball off, cut a good part of the top off and repot it. It finally got too big to keep doing this and too heavy to wheel in the GH so we planted it in the ground a few weeks ago. They don't like temps below 40 so I'm sure I'll have to cover it a few nights in the winter.