Give it some more time. IT's at that middle stage (everybody gets it) where you don't know where you're at. I wouldn't add any more fertilizer for the present. For water, keep an eye on it: when it dries out, water heavily, but then let it dry out again.

Wow my wife and I are (pleasantly) shocked at the possibility of not enough water. Here is other information I meant to include: These are emarald arbs. Most of the arbs on the east side have the top 12 inches drooping over at this time (Oct). I thought this was from too much water. The water drains from North to South and 'moreso' West to East. A PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS, so I posted the pictures to get some help to save the arbs www.kodakgallery.com/dawksphotos. These are from 8/24. Take a look at the last 2 'distance' pictures to get better idea of the overall landscape. You can see how green the grass is on the west side from us watering them, while the rest of the grass is mostly brown. You can also see the shade of the privacy fence on the east side blocking the morning shade it used get. At noon they get sun. From the time they were planted through the summer, they were watered at least 3 times a week by us or mother nature. I noticed there was a question "by what method" did we water them. In August it was very dry but we really watered them a lot by using the hose (not soaker hose) for about 2 minutes each arb. The nursery also mentioned being careful of something called "wicking" where they advised making sure the burlap was completey covered by soil (mulch etc.) They described this as drying the rootball due to the water flowing down the outside of the burlap away from the root, so I made sure that the ones with burlap had the burlap covered. I'm holding off on changing the soil to help it drain on the east side for any other responses and will continue to water it. There are close-up pictures of the arbs labeld L or R for West and East respectively, and 1 through 15 or 16 going south to north. I am going to add pictures to that site for what they look like today. Thank you very much for your continued responses.

i'm going to go out and buy some fungicide unless someone has any other ideas?

I see you have a hose and oscillator sprinkler. That's an excellent start. What is your watering schedule? How often and for how long do you water? Did you fertilize yet this spring? Whether you did or not, now is the time to apply for the first time (or second if you did it in the early spring...which you should not have). Have you applied any herbicides or insecticides? If so, when, and what were they? As for your picture, we cannot see a thing at this altitude. You need to be 3 inches away, not 10 feet. And 3 inches needs to be in the shade or have someone cast a shadow where you are photographing. Get a picture with both green and gray grass. Rather than tease you, though, if this is a disease, regardless of which one, I would recommend applying corn meal at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You can get corn meal at a feed store in 50 pound bags for roughly $12 or less this summer. Corn meal is a biological control that seems to work on St Augustine but not on other grasses. Try the corn meal before you try any chemical approach, because the chemicals ruin the biology rendering the corn meal useless as a bio control. Apply to the entire lawn, because you might not realize that the disease has infected the entire lawn. Also do the entire lawn, because corn meal is an organic fertilizer and it will leave deep green spots where you apply, so do the entire lawn. Once you use corn meal to cure St Augustine fungal diseases, you will completely stop worrying about it in the future. It is a complete solution and permanent...until you do something to let it happen again, which I seem to do annually :-( But at least I have a simple, safe, solution. Give the corn meal 3 full weeks to do the job. You will get very anxious about it for 2 weeks thinking nothing is happening. It simply takes 3 weeks, so relax. Between 2 and 3 weeks you will have forgotten about it. Then after about a month you will notice that "suddenly," the yard is perfect and deep green. Also if you are not already doing it, always mulch mow St Augustine at the mower's highest setting. You can let it go 2-3 weeks or longer if your mower can stand it. This will give you a deep rooted grass system that can withstand long periods of heat and go for days without watering. But do, please, tell us about your watering.