It depends on how dry the roots got. You didn't really tell us how long it sat out with no moisture. Keep it well watered and keep your fingers crossed.

This spring I got Dark Night and White Meidiland own root, bare root from Regan. They were very substantial plants and I'd say yes, they were about the same size as the grafted ones in the same order. They are bigger plants than most potted own root roses that I've purchased via mail order. They are growing well, but a bit more slowly than grafted bare roots.

I agree with Sheila - most of us use the opportunity of planting a rose to do some spot enhancing of the organic material in our soil. I agree that top dressing with organic material is the best long-term solution to improving the soil, but as a short term boost for the soil mixing in compost or something else organic has been very effective for me. I contrast beds where I have been planting roses this way for some time, and the soil in the entire bed becomes this lovely textured and rich soil that I can dig in with my fingers, while beds that I only top-dress haven't worked in that organic material very deeply yet even though they've all been planted the same amount of time. Having said that, you don't have to amend with anything if you start out with good loamy soil like you describe, so there's no particular need to do as much as you've done or certainly to add anything more. For me, the second set of additives is a bit more effort than I want to put in but it sounds fine being all organic and slow acting. The one thing you don't want to do in any new planting is add fast acting fertilizers which for me include most granular fertilizers. Biotone and other organic fertilizers break down more slowly and don't run the risk of burning sensitive feeder roots. I simplify your latter list and add just manure, alfalfa hay, and something to lighten the soil that I can buy in large bulk and relatively cheaply (lately it has been cotton burr compost). My preference is to add no more than 1/3 other substance to the existing soil, since you want the rose to get used to the conditions it's going to expect from here on out rather than getting hooked on any particular amendments at the outset. You've obviously been successful with 1/2 supplements so go with what works for you. I always soak bare roots and you'll find a majority of us do the same, and a majority of the vendors specifically recommend soaking the roots. The principle is to make sure the rose is adequately hydrated to handle the transition to the ground. One look at dried out husks of body bag roses indicates how important hydration is for bare root roses. Cynthia

Mostly in my experience you buy a rose from the roots up, and if it has robust root systems (and grafts if relevant) it will grow the canes it needs or is genetically programmed to produce. Some roses (like Mr. Lincoln) are notorious for being "one cane wonders" with a great reluctance for putting out new basal canes, and it's not fair to compare a bare root Mr. Lincoln with 1-2 canes from one company to another rose with multiple canes from another company and expect those canes to be an indication of the relative quality of the roses. Buying a rose from the roots up also particularly applies when buying potted roses from garden centers. Too many people look at the pretty blooms and forget to check the base of the rose when buying potted roses. Too much top growth in nursery roses can sometimes indicate they've fertilized the heck out of the puppy to push top growth that exceeds the capacity of the root system to support it. Often if I buy such roses the top growth dies off rapidly after I plant it and I'm left with the one or two canes the roots can actually support within a few weeks. Obviously you can't see the roots of potted roses but one sign of concern can be if the top growth extends considerably wider than the size of the pot it's in (indicating the roots can't support that much top growth), or if the rose is narrow in the pot and the rose can shift easily side to side (indicating they've put a $5 root system into a $50 pot). Frankly though, I don't worry too much about the numbers or directions of cane growth on a new rose as long as they're healthy canes. There are grades of bare root roses, where I think grade 1 is best and it goes down to 1 1/2 and 2 from there. That rating system gives you a general idea of the maturity of the plant that is a better indicator of its long term growth than the number of canes that it currently has. Cynthia