OK Don't be horrified, but I restore natural fabrics all the time...here's the secret :) (I have restored many a table cloth that everyone gives up on). Fill a bathtub with hot water, and DENTURE CLEANER :) Yup denture cleaner. I normally use, about a dozen tablets for a large item, half a dozen for a dress, less in a smaller bucket of hand made laces. And let it soak. Just like dentures, it targets the natural enemy's of teeth and fabric, coffee, acid, body oder marks (which are the worst enemy of antique dresses). It works on linen and cotton as well as silk, but silk takes a different process depending on the silk stregnth (pre 1930's normally can't take it). But a 100 plus year old table cloth...easy stuff. Let it soak until the stains are gone. Try to get cheap denture cleaner (less likely to have any fancy crap in it for freshness but if those are there they won't hurt). As long as the fabric is natural cotton or linen it will work like a charm and the hard soaking will deal with the wrinkle issue. When clean let the tub drain, then using the palms of your hannds push it in bunches down against the tub base to softly squeeze out the water (it's not as delicate as you'd think). Then take it out of the tub and lay it on a bunch of towels (lay them out sort of like a big blanket. Roll the table cloth in the towels and then once again, with the palms of your hands squish it down again to let the towels soak up the excess water. Hang it over the shower rod. If the thing is so far gone the threads are rotted you'd know that because it fell apart when ironing. If it can handle an ironing it can handle the above. I actually wash mine (after restoration) in a machine on gentle and then dry them in a cool dryer. If they're not strong enough for that they're not strong enough for use on the table :) I personally iron mine right on the table with a thick cloth (comforter etc) inbetween. I use a steam iron, but I also keep a bottle of spray water and use that on each section as I work on the cloth. I don't care for startch but many do use that on them. This denture cleaner technique is the friend of anyone who loves antique linens. It will remove color so for any items with color it's a last ditch effort to be considered but really, last ditch! My only bad experience is when I did some hand tatted lace (huge amount of it) that was what loooked like a natural tan color but in fact was gray naturally which I found out when it was cleaned. I'd purchased it for a specific project so I had to scramble to find that amount again, but while doing so I made somethng else for the gray. :)

The legs on the chair are Queen Anne & seat is either paper or rush coated with shellac, I think. Paper was used in 1940's as I went to redo & found newspapers inside from 1943 I think.It is same paper that is rolled up & was used for a craft a few years back & you would unroll it & paint it & make it into a bow & add silk flowers & hang on the wall. Left coiled tightly & in the tan color it was used a lot in early to mid 1900's. The chair is very nice & I'm sure worth much more than you paid. At 1st look the desk looks like it could be something else (sewing machine cabinet) but open it is a desk!! Very interesting. The number is not much help & I don't know what the style is. Are there drawers in the 2 sides? If so could have a name on bottom of 1 of them. It has been refinished & they were nice enough not to go over the number!Does it have a secret compartment? Look in the part you have opened & also in the 2 sides as often people hid things so wouldn't disappear. You really got a steal on these. $20 for both!! Wow!! That much for each would have been a bargain!!

I was suggesting it be put inside the upper cabinet - not between the cabinet and the counter. So outlets and tile are safe. As long as shelves are adjustable, the cabinetmaker should be able to do this. You could use copper piping like I did. They are small = thin, so soft. Lowe's also sells small wooden dowels that will fit inside the copper tubing... BUT the dowels MUST be put inside the copper BEFORE the copper is cut. I have a double plate rack - dinner plate above, salad below. The chicken wire on the doors doesn't show up well in this picture. I hit/went over it with dark glaze dipped in a sponge brush to knock down the silver/shiny finish. If you don't want to do a skirt under the sink, or if the plate rack proves to be impossible, you could always replace the glass with chicken wire. Leave as is, or put fabric behind. If you decide not to remove the cabinet over fridge, you could remove the center panels from those doors and add fabric and/or chicken wire. Fabric to hide storage, or chicken wire only for display. You can see my hood in the link. My HVAC guy measured and cut the copper. You can see the edges/corners have a piece that bent - they do that on a crimping machine they have to make duct work. He brought - but I did not use - a small (about 1") copper piece to go straight down the front/center. I left it off, wasn't needed to hide a seam. So I know they can cut and crimp a piece or pieces to go over your entire hood, or fit inbetween the raised wooden pieces. That said, I haven't seen your wood hood in person, I'm going on a wood hood I had similar to yours in our last house that I could have fit copper between. Here is a link that might be useful: my kitchen

The use of underscores in URLs, especially pairs of underscores, is discouraged. The Chrome browser is handling it fine, but your houzz-posted link is broken in any browser, could be the way they process coding attempts. Good practice is to use URLs with no special characters except perhaps the hyphen. Your original link also contains a space that gets encoded as %20, although this will work in most browsers. Just tighten it up a little when creating folder and filenames and you will be fine. DonR-2006/, silk-flowers, silkFlowers, etc.