I was just going to say what rhizo_1 has already stated; these plants naturally climb up trees and can't support their own weight. They need something to do that for them, or else they will just spread out in search of something. I found that out the hard way when I initially used a wooden stake to hold up mine. It ended up warping under the stress and eventually breaking apart, causing the plant to wander. I eventually decided on a 1/4" thick steel rod to stake it to. Plus, I used stronger rubber plant ties that can keep this monster tamed, haha. As for watering it, I don't hold back. I always soak the whole pot and let the excess drain away. Occasionally, I'll place it in the tub and turn the shower on. So that its aerial roots don't dry out either. Although, they are tougher and much more resilient than the aerial roots of other plants, so they don't mind drying out. Just as long as they get the occasional "shower." The first photo is of the back side of my Monstera. I turned it around to get a better look at the steel rod and the rubber plant ties, as well as the numerous aerial roots. Here's what it looks like from the front...

all plants shed their older leaves ... most look like that in your pix ... just cut them out ... expect for the second pic ... is that a new leaf with problems?? can you show us a pic of the overall plant.. for us to understand the severity of the overall problem .... ken

stem rot is very hard to eradicate on a fleshy juicy stem like that. did you cut off the bottom of the stem or just cut out pieces of the stem? if it were mine, i'd take it out of the soil mix and sterilize in bleach solution for like 3 min: 1 part bleach and 15 parts water (most of the stem and roots, but not the growing tip). rinse well and then put it in water with strong peroxide solution ( 1tb per 1qt). and keep it in water like that for 2-3 weeks until you are sure no more rot appears. then pot it in the mix. if the rot appears again - you'll have to chuck it. i don't think that type of stem rot won't jump to other plants, unless you reuse soil. but i'll keep it isolated anyway. also you'll need to sterilize the mix somehow if you don't want to dump it. like pour a gal of boiling water thru it or better bake it...:) in disposable pan, covered with foil. it's too much trouble, of course. i would cut off that young leaf too . even then it might not make it.

Haroldine, you misread my comment. I said "...it doesn't NEED a side node to grow". Regarding the side node, some are flat and hard to see, others are "born" slightly raised. I think I see the node in the top pic of the two Nicole took with her camera, a white area just above that dark dot. That said, and again, this cutting will grow from the tip, not a side node. It would be highly unusual for a side node next to the growing tip to become swollen and produce another lead, especially in monsteras which are not prone to branch spontaneously like some philodendrons and other aroids. I agree with you that a cutting without aerials takes much longer to root than one without them. In my experience they usually produce roots, then leaves, but not always if the cutting is vigorous and in ideal humidity, temp, etc. This cutting already has a leaf that will make energy. Leaves of some plants readily root and produce plants, within aroids, the tuberous types come to mind. Other genera are highly reluctant but might produce a plant in only 1 out of 50 or even 100+ separate attempts, this is my experience with hoya leaves. While science says it's in the realm of remote possibility, in my opinion monsteras, philodendrons, epipremnums and the like don't fall into either of these categories.