Thanks everyone!! dianalo, thanks for the suggestion re:Remodela's backsplash (very nice!). Not sure I understand about going higher than 5.5" for a ss backsplash. If we went with a soapstone backsplash, we were thinking of 5.5" up to the window trim and then stepping it down to 4" for the rest of the perimeter. lavendar lass, we're definitely going for a more traditional look, although the ceiling is a bit more contemporary more by default. We've even considered attaching some beams in the vaulted ceiling to give it more of traditional look. The ceiling will likley remain white but, we'll be painting the walls (either a green or light gray). We are looking to use some simple window treatments (shades?) . We also have a couple of pendants from Barnlightelectric for over the peninsula. Hope this helps give you a feel. Thanks mpagmom. It's good to hear that all-tile backsplashes aren't a problem for cleaning. Is that true for behind the sink and range also? Thanks palimpsest, we're definitely going for more traditional as mentioned above. If you only have the soapstone under the window and glass over the range, are there generally problems with with just drywall everywhere else? Someone mentioned that variations in the wall may leave some separations between the soapstone counter and the drywall. Is that a real concern? One complication is that we really need to finalize the soapstone layout and let them know if we want any soapstone for the backsplash. It might be easier if we could decide after the rest of the kitchen was together. Keep your thoughts and suggestions coming as we're still searching.

...thanks - I already hit it again in mid-May with 16lbs. “Scotts Turf Builder Lawn Food - Starter Food for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer” (NPK 21-22-4, 0.5% Fe, 0.08% Mesotrione (Tenacity)). Works out to ~0.7lbs./1000sqft Nitrogen. I also leveled the old garden area with sand - it is still settling, but appears to be helping. I must say that the monthly 2x Tenacity and 1x Tupersan treatments have worked very well - almost zero broadleaf weeds or crabgrass germination to this point. Now comes the true challenge to keep it properly irrigated during the summer heat with no sprinkler system. I will plan to do 1lbN/ksqft in Sep+Nov as advised and keep updating this thread.

FYI: The house was built in the late 1940s, and the renovated walls pictured above were put in sometime before 1992. I am a bit nervous that a test will reveal asbestos above EPA limits and that will lead to costly remediation. No idea how much abatement of three walls of drywall with asbestos would cost or what my insurance would say. Might have to bite the bullet and have the cleaning team just do the flood cut. I called a local asbestos test company, and the expert there told me, “should be ok.” Of course, when I asked the cleaning crew how they would cut the drywall, they told me they would just saw across the wall. Anyway, the vast majority of people whose opinions I have sought have said they would just do the cut.

Hi. This is such a big complicated process. Hang in there. If you want the ceiling in the great room to soar to great heights, I feel like it should be the whole great room or not at all. It looks now like there’s a square tunnel in the center of the house. This is the first draft so plenty of time to adjust along this journey if you change your mind. I would definitely open that top office room up and make it a flex space unless you want a movie room. I’d add a bit more closet space to the guest room. Do you need a breakfast nook a dining area and a dining space? If so, no worries… just seemed like a lot. Make sure a table fits in the breakfast nook with what looks like a lot of built ins. A little thing.. the wall that you look at when you walk in the front door? I’d make it even with the foyer… it seems a little off center.