if it's definitely under counter fridge drawers-they can obviously go anywhere. the efficient, better ones are quite expensive-freezer drawers would be separate-then you are into serious money for a second residential situation. Not worth it because I think the freezer is important. If "not serious" cooking means food comes in and out but no holiday banquets/gourmet meals/etc ,then microwaving frozen entrees/breakfast with milk/cereal/eggs/toast/leftovers from restaurants/light sandwiches /etc is what you mean,probably. I would get a samsung or similar upright smaller fridge with typical freezer on top-or freezer below and position it at one end of the run. Be sure and have a microwave-as far as cooking-you could get a basic ceramic cooktop/omit a typical oven and get the GE advantium oven-smaller/but good for this situation. From my travels and staying in cottages/lets,and owning one and renting it out-priorities: regular smallish fridge with freezer/small single sink with oridnary faucet and 18 in dishwasher. Basic range or cooktop/okay to omit oven but have microwave and the GE advantium/OR Microwave that has convection cook-full size/efficient model. Base cab drawers are not a priority but if you have space go ahead and add a pot drawer to the basic utensil drawer. I would not omit wall cabs entirely-when people "stay"-they'll buy a few cooking ingreds/cans of soup/bag of rice/pack of crackers,etc-and the wall cab for dishes/bowls and another cab for the misc grocery items will be put to use.A mistake would be the full on expense of all drawers and no wall cabs.If you want an airy look-then get entry level cabs with glass doors-get your glass locally-this will be cheaper than all drawers....When you factor the diswasher/range OR under counter oven/sink base cab/utensil stack of drawers/... it's a fair amt of sq footage....having a couple wall cabs is typical and customary.

Your costs will go up exponentially. With 30” deep base cabinets, first the cabinet bases must be special sized. Then 3 drawer boxes per base cabinets. Then longer drawer glides. Then special sized drawer interior organizers. And about 1.5 SF extra countertop per cabinet ($100 or so). Any base pullouts must be custom sized to avoid wasting the extra depth. Then to be able to access the upper cabinets better, they need to be extra depth 15” instead of 12” depth. In terms of pure space, this may be efficient if money is no object. What I would do: To extent possible stay with two cabinet sizes, such as 30” wide and 15” wide, for reduced costs and better aesthetics. Keep base cabinets 24” deep. If you need a deeper countertop, frame out your base cabinets 6”, get an extra wide end panel to cover the gap at the end of a run, and either eliminate uppers or get uppers 15” deep. Framing out 6” may waste some space but on a run of special sized drawer bases will save thousands.

As your floor plan has no stairs I'm assuming this room must include a bed. I've placed a full size bed in the alcove. There is room in the alcove for bedside tables, but I'm thinking you would put any chest of drawers in the closet, which is really large for the size of the apartment. The rest of the furniture is on the small size. Most sofas and chairs will be 36" deep. 72" is the minimum length for a sofa with most being closer to 80". The TV is opposite the sofa and can sit on a narrow sofa table if you can't hang it on the wall. I've placed a dining table in front of the kitchen area. The table will provide you with extra prep space in addition to seating up to 4. If you choose comfortable upholstered dining chairs they will be good for extra seating when you have company.

We call this a 'dry lay'. And it is exactly as it sounds. You open 2-3 boxes and lay them out (without clicking them together) and start SHUFFLING things around. Only you can decide how you like your mix. My mix is going to turn out differently from yours. 'Tony's' mix is going to turn out very differently from mine. Remember to PROPERLY STAGGER the joints...a bad set up can look WORSE by putting 'ladder joints' into the floor (thats when each short edge is EXATLY 6" away from the next and they create the look of a set of STAIRS in the floor...bad...bad...bad!). As you start shuffling these planks, you will notice that putting super light up against super dark is an issue for you (....but not for me!!! I LOVE movement!!! Give me more of that please!). Once you start going, you will continue to pull from 3 DIFFERENT BOXES at ANY TIME in the installation. If you are having someone install these, then feel free to leave the 'dry lay' on the floor when they arrive. Take a photo of the floors BEFORE they start work. Explain this is pretty close to perfect for you and if they would keep the order as best as they can. As they finish up the floor, they will only have the last 2 planks in each row to do. It should be enough for them to keep the look of what you are after. If you come back and the floor looks like HELL you have the pics to prove it wasn't you (or it might have been you...hard to say).