but he cuts my grass very well for cheap so I'm keeping him. ==>>> OK.. you have a GRASS CUTTER.. not a landscaper.. and that is quite apparent ... if this thing is precious to you.. hire the right guy for the job ... [which might vastly destroy your lawn cutting savings.. lol ...] i admitted no palm experience.. and since many grow in sand .. i suspected it might be from a world of its own ... imidacloprid ==>> look for Bayer tree and shrub products ... you arent going to buy it straight under that name ... at bigboxstore ... and most likely nowhere REPUTABLE.. w/o a license INSURE it is labeled for said use ... apply it according to the label ... and dont mess around with it ... i never understood spraying of a systemic.. think about it.. the roots are the most efficient sucker inner [technical term there] .. so why not use them so suck it up .. besides the fact.. that spraying a plant that size is just going to waft stuff all over you.. the house.. and half way down the block.. be safe ... ken BTW.. most scale.. being that they are scaly .. get this.. are impervious to topside applications ... you have to get the product into the vital juices of the plants .. [not through the scale cover of the little sucker ... the only reason oil works on scale.. is it suffocates them.. ] .. and the best way to do that.. is thru the roots ... Here is a link that might be useful: link

Blight is a general word that many use to describe a sick tomato plant but it's best to be able to ID the specific disease involved if one can. First, I Don't know where you live which would help narrow down the possibilities. If it's a foliage disease I'm just noting that there are no varieties, hybrid or OP, that are tolerant of the common foliage diseases, but I don't see any spots on the leaves that would indicate that so please do note if you see any such leaf spots and if so please describe as to size and color and shape and if there are any yellow halos around them. Also if there are any dark colored areas on the stems. If it's a systemic soilborne disease, such as Fusarium or Verticillium or several others, again, it depends on where you are in a geographic sense, then there's nothing to be done at this point.Even with hybrids that have tolerance to some of the soilborne diseases all it means is a week or so more of growth before the plants go down. There is no such thing as total resistance to soilborne diseases, and the genes that are bred into many hybrids are of best use to large scale commercial farmers who base when they harvest on Brix levels, which is a measure of soluble sugars and the extra few days that tolerance brings can allow for those Brix levels to reach the right level. It would also help to know if you're growing other tomato plants and if they all have the same symptoms. Carolyn

The underside has a dusty look that can suggest mites. I am half blind and can't make out anything beyond that. Look at the underside with a magnifier. I need 5x or 6x If there is a mite problem, you will see lots of fine webbing and a few of the little crab-shaped critters, amber colored.. There will also be fine pale stippling on the upper face of the leaf. The remedy is a forceful spray of water on the underside of the leaves every day for several days. If there are no or few mites, it is probably spray burn from the malathion.

Could be a Buddleia leaf weevil, Cleopus japonicus, considered to be a bioloogical control for the invasiveness of butterfly bushes, particularly in NZ and Australia where the plants are noxious weeds. I am not aware of them being very common in the US but perhaps they are being employed for the same purpose (Buddleia is an invasive species on the west coast and beginning to become one in other areas). And the only garden weevil I am aware of that can fly!