I regularly contrast the terms potting up and repotting while drawing illustrative contrasts between the two practices, and was addressing the OPs initial concern about whether or not the plant's roots were getting "too crowded". Potting up, unless it's undertaken before the roots/soil mass become unitized to the point the roots and soil remain intact when the plant is unpotted (which hobby growers rarely do), offers only a temporary return to 'something a little closer to the plant's genetic growth/vitality potential' and is a limiting practice over the long term, even if it offers a temporary return to a little bit better growth. What most growers interpret as a growth "spurt" after potting up is simply the plant partially rebounding from the root constriction and related issues it was suffering, and returning to that 'something a little closer to normal growth' state. Vigor is genetically encoded and you can never, under any circumstances, force a plant to grow at beyond its genetic potential; so growth "spurts" after repotting aren't really "spurts" at all. Repotting, along with bare-rooting, root pruning, and a change of soil (preferably to a fast-draining mix that is well-aerated and durable) offers rejuvenation (literally) that returns the plant to a state where it's possible for the plant to grow at or very near it's genetic potential (within the limiting influence of other cultural factors) and to be returned to that state over and over with each repotting - indefinitely. Potting up does not offer that potential. One practice limits - the other removes limitations. Appropriate pot size, from a physiological perspective, hinges almost entirely on the choice of soil. The more water retentive/slow-draining the soil is, the more critical the choice of pot size is because of the negative effects of the perched water table inherent in heavy soils. As the soil choice moves toward better aeration and drainage, properties directly linked to reduced volumes of perched water in soils, the less critical the choice of container size is; until finally, when the perched water table disappears entirely, there is no upper limit on what is physiologically appropriate insofar as container size is concerned. You can easily grow the tiniest seedling in a 100 gallon container when using soils that don't support perched water if you have a mind to, and enjoy the accelerated growth the large soil volume offers - with no worry about root rot issues. If the roots of Emerald's plant are congested, stasis is the least desirable choice, followed by potting up. She can realize optimal growth (again - within the limiting influences of other cultural factors) by undertaking a full repot into a fast draining soil, the benefits of which are much more far-reaching than just the added growth potential. Al

Hi OO, I'll make it simple. These are hardy, rugged plants, one needn't worry or look to be so precise & exact for them. I grow indoors only in NYC & my kitchen window is all Aloes on a West windowsill on top of a working radiator. Bottom line -- the maximum light you can give it (starting gradually of course); can be direct sun, but also fine w/ bright indirect. I tend to leave mine alone & pretty much ignore them. I'd suggest you do nothing to yours for at least a month, let them become accustomed to their new home, then maybe into a terra cotta pot, especially if you tend to overwater (don't know if you do or not, a general suggestion). FYI: in these plant circles of ours AV = African Violets, almost always; otherwise we just say Aloes or Aloe vera, but save AV for African Violet (see how long that is, that's why we say AV). Hi Jonas, FYI, your mix looks kind of peaty, if it were my plant, I'd change that mix to something much more gritty or if that's all you've got, I'd add at least 40% perlite or pumice to make it fast draining; that mix looks slow to drain, which increases chances of rot. Having explained above that I only grow indoors, in MY home, brown on Aloes would be a possible sign of rot, brown on Aloes is NOT a good thing, tho' you seem to think it is. Brown is not a winter color for Aloes (unless I misunderstand your post). They're supposed to be green like in the pix you've shown, not brown (at least when grown indoors). I wouldn't be in a hurry to remove the pups; I like to ensure they're old enough to move out on their own before I do that & also, aesthetically, I prefer the look of the crowded pot like yours.

I understand your being hesitant to repot the plants again so soon after the first repot. I was in the same situation. Folks here told me that I could leave my plant in the less than optimum soil and hope for the best or get them into soil where it will thrive asap. I went for the second repot and my plant is doing great. I'm currently in SW Florida, zone 10A, but I grew up in zone 6 in Portsmouth, OH. While regular potting soil works so-so in Ohio, and my mother still uses it, I think you may do better with at least a cactus and succulent soil. You still need to mix at least 50/50 perlite or pumice with the soil. Every succulent that I used potting soil on when I lived in Toledo died from rot. I didn't think I was overwatering, but the plants did. I think the soil was a big factor. Hopefully the sun will be shining for you soon! It will lift your spirits and help your plants thrive.

Ignore the bit about the sand, but you're good to go if you follow the advice laden out here Aloe FAQ