Toilet flange too high - solutions that look good?
swiss_chard_fanatic
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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blubird
5 years agoweedmeister
5 years agoRelated Discussions
toilet flange
Comments (5)If the flange is secure, you actually can leave the flange "as is" with the layers right under the flange ring. I write that because if you damage the flange it can create a whole new can of worms if the flange or flange-to-pipe connection was damaged and had to be repaired/replaced. However, I'd cut the plywood back closer to the flange, I'd cut back at least to the same size as the first layer that's on top of the plywood in the photo. You might find that the closer to the flange you cut, you can then dig out the layers under the flange. If you get there, then you can simply install new layers of your flooring sandwich around the flange. The new layers don't have to go under the flange, the new layers can encircle the flange. However, if yo have, say, a 3/4" gap between the top of the subfloor and the bottom of the flange, then just cut some small wood blocks (say four blocks, 1" square and 3/4" high for example or sized as needed) that will fit snugly between the flange and the subfloor, and set the blocks around the flange at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Keep the blocks clear of the flange bolt locations. The flange itself should be securely attached to the waste pipe beneath. Use a putty knife or equivalent to scrape away the residual wax. Toilets are pretty easy to install, but if this is your first time I do have a recommendation. Use a waxless adapter. Something like the Fernco. Size the waxless adapter to the size of your waste pipe. The thing is that wax rings are "one and done" things. If you set the wax ring, then set the toilet, but then you have to pull the toilet up again to reset it, technically you would want to scrap away the deformed ring and install a new ring, even though the ring you just installed is only 10 seconds old. Once a wax ring is deformed you can't really count on it to give you a good seal the second time the toilet is set. With the Fernco, you set it on the base of the toilet. Then you can set the toilet, pull it, reset, pull, reset, etc. It's good forever, so to speak. You can set a toilet that is fully assembled. Again if you think the weight might be a problem, you can remove the tank from the bowl. then just position and set the bowl. Then reinstall the tank on the bowl. Then shim the base, snug the bolts, and there you go. And as always, do NOT overtighten any of the bolts that go through the china. Snug them up but don't crank down so hard that you overtighten them. You don't want to crack the china. If the base wobbles on your new floor, don't try to make it wobble-free by cinching down hard on the flange bolts. Use toilet shims between the tile and the toilet base. Then snug up the flange bolts. Buy a new set of flange bolts too. Good luck and happy toileting!...See MoreLooking for a good value toilet that won't clog
Comments (27)> what is this about the Drake II flapper? The standard flapper looks like this: That hole on the side allows it to fill with water and fall closed fairly quickly. But you can get a flapper designed for Toto's (now discontinued) low-end "Power Gravity" commodes (rather than "G-max", etc.) that is interchangable, but doesn't have the hole on the side (and sometimes a hole gap reducer on the bottom) which makes the flapper stay open longer before falling shut: These pictures are actually not of the Toto-branded flappers but rather of generic Korky replacements, but from what I read, they actually make the part for Toto, and the ones they sell under their own brand, in this case # 2022BP, are identical except for packaging, and even have "Toto" embossed on them, but are less expensive. You can also get this Korky 3060BP adjustable flapper which Home Depot sells in their stores, which lets you rotate the sleeve that opens or closes holes on its side: > I will be installing the Maris (has the same flushing system as the Drake II). Are you sure? A quick look online shows a more elaborate dual-flush setup > Your flap solution is an awfully expensive upgrade. You can get a replacement flapper for $10. > Questions: > Where did you get your information about the flap? From a plumber who has worked on these > How would I find out what kind of flap I have on the Maris? Toto's website has parts diagrams for all their current products. They show two versions of the Maris, one with a conventional tank and one with a tank that's hidden behind the wall between the studs. Both of them are dual-flush units, which I have no experience with, but these don't seem to use conventional flappers but rather a more elaborate flush valve assembly, either THU356 (regular tank) or THU322href> (in-wall tank). Note: I have not actually used this exact product on my Drake II; rather I bought the adjustable flapper to replace a solid flapper from a Gerber Viper 1.28gpf that I thought could use more water per flush, then moved the old Gerber flapper to the Toto, which made it flush using a bit more water, though I should note that it does a fine job even with 1.28gpf and I may switch back. I'm just paranoid about overflowing toilets when there's expensive new carpeting right outside the bathroom....See MoreConnection for copper closet bend to new toilet flange?
Comments (6)Thank you for your considered and thoughtful responses! As far as explosive sewer gas, appreciate the warning but, as stated, already torched the vertical "tailpiece" and removed it. With respect to fernco fittings, I looked at these and found eiher a no-hub "sleeve" type connection or a "donut" which fits inside existing pipe. Doesn't seem the no-hub sleeve would provide the stability you would want and, at any rate, it does not fit over the coupling (hub) on the closet bend. The donut is designed for cast-iron pipe and will not fit in 3" coopper hub. Box-store people had no idea how to fix this as they are familiar only with cast-iron or PVC setups. I bought a new copper flange and was lucky enough to bump into a plumber at the supply house who gave me a few inches of 3" copper (10' of 3" is super expensive!). I resoldered this new "tailpiece" into the existing closet bend with my little propane torch (sorry again about torch and sewer gas, but too late). Hoping and praying that this joint holds up. Now I need to attach new copper flange - now you've got me worried about soldering it on. Hope anyone else who has to deal with refitting to copper closet bend can benefit from your comments....See Moretoilet flange above floor
Comments (9)Great question: "Does anyone know of a way to raise a toilet?" Better believe it, CukeDuke. I was a witness to the failed raising of a love-child. ItÂs a lot easier to raise a toilet, if only because they donÂt give you as much crap. OTOH, when the question becomes Nature vs. Nurture, Nature wins hands-down in this forum. Raising a toilet is hard, because they need to have a good, solid-education if you want them to go anywhere. (IÂm sure youÂve heard of potty-training.) I know we donÂt actually need to invite Albert Einstein into this discussion, but he did say something about relativity that we can employ. Einstein would agree that raising a toilet is equal to lowering the flange. But itÂs a little scary. I had an uncle who used to threaten: "IÂm going to lower the flange!" That scared the livin stuff out of everybody. So naturally, it never went anywhere from there. He died much too early. HeÂs been inturd ever since. Tomorrow, I want tell you about my dear aunt. But, first, letÂs see if I still have a log-in. Pinoke...See Moreswiss_chard_fanatic
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJohnson Flooring Co Inc
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