many many many makes out there. Go to an ecommerce site and use key words like blower, insert, power-pack, and liner (although i always thought liners were just the thin layer of steel lining a chimney, it is a useful term and it appears to mean the motor too.) Congratulations on getting a massive hood. I think it is a great find. I'll ask you a few questions, in reverse order. What dimensions is the opening at the top of the hood? Rectangular or round? Do you know what an adaptor or transition is in terms of ducting? What duct size would you think you want to install? Before that, the big question is the quantity of air (CFM) you expect to blow. Before that, the kind of cooking you do, and whether it's for one, for two, or for a whole restaurant size crowd (i.e. many burners on high, and often). Since you have complete access to your future duct, an inline motor is an option. A good option. There is no advantage to "inserting" the motor into the hood, compared to having the motor be positioned in the duct (inline) or even outdoors on the outside wall. J, you have a good sense of what is needed. First you got a "sump" (the collector / hood / canopy / umbrella) and now you want a blower. Makes sense to me. When I list a bunch of terms as if they were synonyms, it helps you search later. Don't take any term too seriously. Below is a link to another thread where I may have confused the woman who posted her query. Too many terms. HTH -david Here is a link that might be useful: Where to find the 'guts' to fit in custom stove hood

Great choice on Modern Aire hood. The 10Xl requires a 10" duct and the 12XL a 12" duct. Simplisticly you should match the potential performance of the stove to the blower - this is done as follows: - maximum potential btu output/100=recomended cfm of the blower - allied to this is a pretty technical area called "effective duct length - EDL" which takes into account static pressure issues for duct type, bends etc. Typically unless the duct run is very complex we dont get into the static pressure issue and rely on btu/100 to estimate the required cfm. Once you have determined this required cfm that will indicate the size of Fantech inline blower you should use and therefore the size of duct. As a side point make sure you use the inline duct silencer - these are amazing and work on the same principle as a car exhaust muffler. There is a link below with some useful information on ducting and size etc. Here is a link that might be useful: Range Hood Duct technical information

Long time reader, first time poster. Thanks so much for all of the insightful discussions and everyone sharing their experiences with kitchen appliances etc. I have a question that seems like it would be easy to answer, but neither my cabinet people nor several range providers seem to be able to answer... I am setting up my range vent with a Fantech in-line blower (FKD8XL) and silencer. I know I need to get a "liner", but all of the pictures I have seen of these seem to be just the "insert" - filter, lights, rheostat, mounting into the hood. Now, the hood is a slant top, and I was expecting for best laminar flow, that the hood itself would be lined with SS or aluminum and that the insert would connect to that - i.e. that immediately above the liner the vented area would gradually get narrower as it goes up to the duct piping. Like a pyramid. But the pictures I see, such as this one: http://www.fantech.net/accessories5_02.jpg seem to show the duct connected immediately behind the insert. This seems like it would work great for just the center of the filter, but very poorly at the edges. Do hoods shaped in this manner exist? Or are they all just flat as a pancake immediately behind the insert? Finally, any recommendations for the insert? Seems like most would function exactly the same, and that one could shop for cost. The sound and power of the blower itself seems to be the main differentiator. (I've been thinking filters rather than baffles, but could be convinced) Any advise is appreciated! Brad

Reading extensively must not have included here on this forum, as there are hundreds (at least) of hood and MUA threads, many of which provide technical data and calculations. Here are repeated a few tidbits: Hood size should over lap, and you seem to be on that path -- good. Hood CFM, while historically based on BTUh of the cooktop, particularly in the commercial world, is better determined from the velocity of cooking plumes vs. velocity of air entrained into the baffles. To this end, I suggest the following: Take the area of the hood entry aperture (capture area) in square feet. Multiply by 90 to get the CFM needed to achieve 90 ft/min over the aperture. Then multiply again by 1.5 to select a blower with that nominal rating that might, depending on your hood, ducting, and MUA achieve the earlier determined CFM. No air leaves the hood that doesn't get replaced by some type of MUA. Wall leakage MUA is not desirable for reasons explained elsewhere. Passive MUA (no MUA blower -- duct, damper, filter, and perhaps heater) is possible if there are no combustion appliances having back-draft pressures exceeded by the MUA path restrictions. Else, an 'Active' MUA (with blower) is needed. Hood duct size can follow manufacturer's suggestion, but in general aim for 1000 to 2000 ft/min in the duct.