we wern't impressed by our builder "discounts". I would definately shop around. In some cases we went with the builder supplier (e.g. lighting, cabinets) but in other cases we found a better local supplier and now the builder has switched over to them (e.g.granite). In some cases we purchased items on line and gave them to the builder (e.g. sinks). In the case of the lighting, we did not get the absolute best price on the fixtures (although the prices were good and dicounted off suggested retail) BUT we did get a "free" design and that was well worth the small premium on the fixtures. We could have saved a few dollars by puchasing the same lights on-line but we did have some broken fixtures on delivery (replaced quickly) and the lighting in our house is fantastic. There is something to be said for having a local supplier who can quickly get you parts or replace an item if there are problems. But you have to weigh that against what you are getting locally and any savings you can get on line. For example, we purchased our faucets locally using the builder's plumbing supplier but we bought the stainless steel sinks on line. The markup on SS was unbelievable (2 grand for a Kohler kitchen sink with the "discount" - are they nuts!). I think we paid 1 grand for 4 SS sinks - 16 gauage - they are awesome and we got that tip from GW. So Scrutinize every line item and do not assume that every item on the list is at the best discount you can get. Toilets were another one - we bought Toto's on-line and got a very good deal. The appliance purchase was amazing. Builder told us that his guy had the very best prices. BS - we saved over 4 grand by buying appliances from a local store who has been around for decades and their price included installation!. Plus we got 0% financing on the stuff which we just finished paying off - nice to have that off the mortgage. I don't think I would buy appliances on-line - research that approach and definately don't be affraid to check local stores and tell them the best prices you can get on line - see if they will at least match it or throw in installation. Shop til you drop. Its your money that they want to take. PS - assume that EVERY builder "allowance" is crap - pulled out of the air. Validate every allowance against actual bids from suppliers for items that are at the quality level you expect. Hopefully you can do this before you sign the contract. If we had only budgeted what our builder "allowed", we would have no lights and probably have plywood for countertops.

It's funny. Yesterday my wife and I were figuring out how many shows we've done in our craft show career. 30 years at an averagte of 35 shows per year, and that's over 1,000 shows. And I can say I've seen both priced, and non priced items. Usually the high end shows are the ones where some will put out their prices. But you know the work is expensive, and sometimes they'll haggle. High end jewelers don't display their prices, because you KNOW that's a real ruby and not a bead. But everybody else has their prices right out there. Your friend admits to not selling very much. And if she's happy not selling, who are we to argue? There is the theory about underpricing. But today, with people not having much money to spend at the shows, you ask what you think is a fair price, and she asks what she thinks is fair. The customer will decide. There are two schools of thought in this business. "Quick nickels" or "slow dimes". You are in the first camp, and your friend is in the second camp. Here is a link that might be useful: Shady Pine Studios

Mike, Stick to the facts. The builder said 3.5 tons was enough. He used a 4-ton condenser and a 5-ton furnace. Check the specs. The 4-5 ton furnaces may only use a different motor size. If this is the case, the builder probably sized the ducts for 3.5 tons, and stuck the larger furnace in, because he questioned the accuracy of his installer. As I said, use a man J to verify btu sizing. I should have included a man D for duct sizing, but I expected the reader to read between the lines a little. This would tell the owner if the system was designed for a larger blower. In all probability it was not. If this is the case, then the few ducts from a floor could be closed to improve the cooling of the remaining areas. The remaining area could be a new system. In Texas, ducts are usually flex, or round metal duct. You can place them just about anywhere, after the fact. If you have to route the duct thru difficult areas, a flex duct is easily routed. As to design, I would imagine that the system was thrown in place with hopes it would stick. Using a 5-ton furnace, with a 4-ton coil, does not sound like any planning was attempted. When the builder said the design required a 3.5 ton cooling system and installed a 5-ton furnace, tells me that he was not very accurate. This would mean that some work may be needed to reduce the furnace blower cfm. A 4-ton coil in a 5-ton furnace does not sound very efficient anyway. To the owner, donÂt take no from the installer about a system separate for the second floor. You could maybe use a closet that can open from the hall or common area. Get a framer to give you an estimate about supporting the rafters where the HVAC will be placed. You may be surprised at how little the cost will be.

It depends on your market (recall real estate is regional) - if most or many properties in your area are selling at 85% of list, then they are priced too high and future sellers will adjust. Eventually the seller will hit what the market will bear and you will no longer see properties selling for 85% of list. If you live in a seller's market (and they still exist), you would not see 85% of list - you may see 105% of list. The market then adjusts, but upwards. If your house is listed at $100K and the comps show all homes sold for $75K in the last month, then an offer of 75% is not a lowball offer, the sellers are in denial. If the house is listed at $100K and all comps sold for $95K in the last month and a potential buyer offers $75K, the buyer is in denial (or the house has "issues"). I would suggest looking at the comps in your area (as you have already done) and bid accordingly. Remember, just because you feel the house is worth X does not mean the seller will agree.