Getting Rid of Weed Without Killing Underlying Plant (photos)
Sea Husky
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
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Getting rid of established perennial weeds and grasses
Comments (6)Move your daylillies temporarily. Wait until later in the summer after the daffodils have died down the the year, then spray it out with glyphosate (Roundup). Then you can move your daylillies back after the grasses have all died. It may take a second treatment on the grass. You will have some continuing control of the grasses, but most should be gone and a good mulch or other groundcover will deter them from coming back....See MoreKilling Weeds Without Harming Pets
Comments (3)First you have to get rid of the overgrowth of weeds if you hope to do anything. As Kimmsr suggests, mowing will grind them up and lower the level, or you may need to get someone to come in and cut them off and carry away. After that, keeping it mowed will control a lot of weeds while you get your lawn and other landscaping back in order. You can use selected herbicides to help clean up problem areas once the overgrowth has been cleaned up. Glyphosate is particularly useful because it will remove most anything and it breaks down quickly. Used according to the label directions it is highly safe and presents far less risk of damage than trying to kill the weeds with salt. Just keep your pets away from the treated areas until the pesticide has thoroughly dried and at least 24 hours. Thick mulches, black plastic, layers of newspaper or cardboard, tillage, hand weeding, herbicides, soil amendments, planting a thick stand of grass or other plant selections, and water management among other things will all provide you with results and combining them will work even better. You'll have to choose your preferred methods based on your physical abilities, how much time and money you want to spend, and your personal preferences for appearance and what you do or don't like to do....See MoreGetting rid of weeds 101?
Comments (3)It's usually better to start with a small section so you don't get worn our or discouraged and because you learn things and discover things in the first area that will be useful in the areas you work on later. Maybe start close to the house and keep extending out over time. Cut the whole area down low with a line trimer and then remove the rocks and do any rough levelling, grading or shaping of the ground you desire before doing anything else. The next step could be one of many methods including something like what you suggested (except running a tiller through the rocks would not be very kind to the tiller). You might find some landscaping uses for the rocks (borders, erosion control, etc.) so don't kill yourself hauling them all off site just yet -- just put them out of the way somewhere. If you do till, don't rely on it as a weed killing method since it can often have the opposite effect since many weeds will increase after tilling and tilling brings up weed seeds. You might want to till for purposes of loosening your soil but not really for killing weeds. Don't till when the soil is saturated it's too hard to do and is bad for soil structure. Everything mentioned so far would be done before the real weed killing beings. Most methods will take much longer than a few weeks. If you use plastic, you would have to use black plastic to have a chance of it working in just a few weeks or even a month or two. To kill with clear plastic would take a long time and maintaining a cetain amount of moisture, etc. which is probably more than you want to do. You could also smother the area with big rolls of black landscape fabric which you would have to remove before planting grass. You can also heavily cover with newspaper and cardboard to smother the area. The chemical route would be to use Roundup on a dry, non-windy day and then repeat again every week or two during dry, non-windy days when survivors and new weeds pop up until there are very few weeds. Smothering should probably be done for a season or more and then plant your grass (see lawn care forum). I have had pretty good success in battling weeds by planting rye grain (the kind you eat not the rye grass that is grown as suburban turf) in the fall and letting it grow until spring then cutting it down just before it makes seed (and making sure it is dead before any new planting). The rye grain helps to outcompete the weeds over the winter and engages in a bit of its own chemical warfare. Note, however, that if you don't want a big tall agricultural looking field of rye during the winter then this is probably not the way to go. You can cut the rye once in the winter when it is tall if you can't stand it being so tall and it will probably still survive until you kill it in spring. A final preachy plea: please visit the natives forum to see and request various ideas about what to do with your yard. Even when just planting grass there are many options....See MoreBest way to get rid of dead crabgrass remains after killing?
Comments (10)Well, you guys have convinced me. I have some crabgrass that is hit and miss in small spots around the yard but I also have some pretty good sized concentrations. Even the smaller spots with just one or two plants, the plants themselves are mature, large and spread out so that it would be fairly easy to spray just that plant and not get too much else around it. Also, the RoundUp I had for another area where I didn't want anything else growing back for a while was the RoundUp Extended Control. Regular RoundUp says you can replant after 3 days. So, I think I'm going to try and hit the worst of the infestation with RoundUp, then I'll go over the whole yard with a light spray of Tenacity for the Yellow Nutsedge. When the crabgrass starts to knock back and die off, I'll rent a dethatcher and go over the yard with that, then rent an aerator, then a power seeder and reseed and fertilize. Oh, and unless we have an unseasonably cold fall or a really fast-coming winter, we can stay in at least the mid-40s at night and mid-60s to mid-70s all the way until Thanksgiving around here. It's really hit or miss and, my luck, we'll have a really cold fall, but I'm really not too worried about sowing grass in mid to late September. I've looked at some of the information from the local county extension agents and they say that as long as the seed is in the ground by the end of September in our area, the grass should have time to be well rooted before winter hits. Sometimes it will still be good when seeding as late as mid-October but, with the way the weather is around here anything past the end of September and I'd really be pushing my luck. Soooo, that gives me a month to kill the worst of the crabgrass, dethatch, aerate, power seed and fertilize. Oh, I need to find the time to close down and winterize my pool too. It looks like September is going to be a really busy month! I may have to cancel my vacation days before Thanksgiving and take a few Fridays off instead to extend a few weekends and get everything in. Thanks for the advice guys. - Byron...See MoreSea Husky
5 years agoSea Husky
5 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
5 years agokitasei
5 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
5 years ago
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