Well... I'm a minority of one here... 37 years ago I started on our old house & I'm still going. I've done pretty much everything myself (yes, up to code) so I know what I've done in the past and how it's held up. Wood filler absolutely does not last under outside paint. Period. (The book "Wood" might be a good starting point to explain why.) Basically, wood moves. Filler does not. Starting to see the problem here? I did it and after 10 years or so it started falling out.. oops. Yes, caulk works. But you have to keep applying thin layers forever to get around the shrinkage problem. DAP used to have an elastomeric filler... it was basically thick caulk, so the shrinkage problem was still there, but not as hard to build up. Wood glued in place is probably ideal, but it can be hard or impossible to get a piece that fits the damaged portion tightly. Use an aliphatic resin glue (yellow wood glue) - it gives a little so it can handle the wood shrinking and expanding. You can try a thin layer of caulk for better adhesion, followed by filler immediately, while the caulk is wet. The layer of embedded caulk gives enough it may keep the filler from coming loose. Whatever you do, you need to apply a layer of wood hardener first if the wood is weathered- ie. gray. At that point the lignin- the glue that holds the wood fibers together- is gone, so whatever you put in the hole will come loose, still attached to those weak wood fibers. Lacquer-based hardeners (Minwax) work ok; if you want it to be as strong as the original wood, use epoxy that's made for the purpose (Abatron). It's thin so it soaks into the wood nicely and leaves it stronger than the original. Then fill. Good luck! And the guy who said wood filler would come loose... he was dead on.

Errant: gorgeous!!! I used a both caulking and wood putty depending on the type of joint/hole filling. I had recessed panels and at the point of recess needed caulking. Sometimes the paint will fill small gaps, but you really don't know how well until the caulking/filling phase is done. So it's just as easy to do it up front and be sure. I didn't caulk around the inside of the doors, but later I wished I had. Those paint gaps annoyed me even inside. I think I may have gone back over them afterwards. I had no shrinking or caulk issues at all in 4 years (then I moved). I think because the wood is 25 years old, it is very stable. Maybe with a lot of humidity, it may be an issue. Also be prepared that with white cabinets, they do show dirt easily. It amazed me to realize how dirty the wood cabinets were that I never saw. No hiding anything with white! I used BM Aura paint which was very durable and held up great to frequent wipe-ups. I also kept a small bottle of touchup paint handy. (Michaels: 2oz flip top plastic jars) Now BM has Aura Advance "cabinet" paint so either it's just a marketing change or presumably is even more durable for cabinets.

+1 Use a true glazing putty and there are several videos out there that are very informative on how to get proficient at it.

Hi, why not "adjust" the miter cuts 'til they fit properly? Most margins will allow shaving a degree or two; (past which they will be too short.) I did this last weekend on my kitchen/din rm door I moved over 2 feet. Now the tightest joints in the whole joint. Casey