Do you leave your 'little' potted plants in the FULL HOT sun?
myermike_1micha
5 years ago
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Full Sun, happy hot peppers, not fruiting...?
Comments (3)How many buds do you have on each plant? The plants may still be rather small to set a lot of fruit and handle it. Pinching off the first few buds is a common practice and improves yields later. Your plant may be doing something similar, naturally. It has happened to me. Plants will drop their buds and go on a growth spurt. You could also be overfertilizing. Too much nitrogen and you will get beautiful bushes with no fruit. However, you say the plants are flowering but not setting the fruit? What's the content of potassium in the fertilizer that you are using? Potassium relieves stress and helps fruit set. Hand pollinating is a good idea, if the problem is that there are no pollinators....See MoreLarge potted plants that will take FULL sun at altitude?
Comments (19)Most of this has already been said, so, to repeator reinforce! Any plant you have growing indoors that you want to move out into high altitude direct sun will need to be acclimated very slowly! To do it, move it out for an hour of the very earliest morning sun and an hour (at the most) of the very latest afternoon sun for the first couple days, and then keep gradually increasing the time in the sun little by little each day until itÂs all day long. If you donÂt want to be moving them in and out over and over, use the "covering them with a white sheet" method during the rest of the dayÂthe first few days you might even want to cover them with a double sheet for the middle of the day, but be sure thereÂs still air circulation under it! If you can "tent" it somehow, that would be best. Some of the leaves on some of the plants may still sunburn during this process. If they do, theyÂll look whitish (usually), or tannish! If they burn theyÂll probably fall off and new leaves will regrow. Individual existing sunburned leaves will not "recover!" There are very few "shade" houseplants, so most of them can be grown in quite a bit of sun. Not sure about your palms, and IÂd acclimate them VERY slowly if you try themÂespecially the sago. If you go somewhere like PaulinoÂs (very good selection of indoor plants), most of the things they have, including most of the house plants that have been named here, will be for sun, and if you have any questions, just ask somebody working inside. I havenÂt seen anything people have suggested that I think wouldnÂt work. Remember, again, that youÂre going to need to find some way to "secure" them so they donÂt blow over, and a good quality potting soil/mix will help a lot with the watering, but youÂll still need to water them very frequently. (DonÂt use Hyponex brand potting soil!) As someone mentioned, a mulch on top of the soil will help some with evaporationÂbark mulch would work well too and probably look nicer and be less likely to blow away than straw. I definitely agree with light colored pots or covered with something light colored. A few more recommendations! Tropical Hibiscus would do well as indoor/outdoor flowering plants. They can be bought in bush or tree form and will bloom year around with enough direct sun in winter. Come in all the warm colors. is another, and also can be bought in bush or tree form. The picÂapparently from a growing facilityÂis the only one I could find of the tree form, but they can grow much larger than shown in that pic. With either the hibiscus or Abutilon, if you cut them back pretty severely after each bloom, it will keep them nice and full looking, and encourage even more blooms. Bougainvillea also do well in , and would need to be cut back severely after each bloom to "contain" themÂthey can get very carried away if not cut back! They do well on a trellis in the pot. If youÂre putting the plants on the floor rather than the bench, you could keep them from blowing away by putting twine around the bench and around the top of the plant or trellis at "bench heightÂwould work with other taller plants too." And somebody has already mentioned Brugmansia, which looks the same as . These look very much like the Brugmansia I used to have, which was VERY heavily evening scented, but the pics identify them as Datura, so presumably thatÂs what they are. With Datura and Brugmansia, you really canÂt tell the players without a program. Come in warm colors, and some of them are wonderfully scented. In some ways these are easier to grow than the others, water wise, because they can take (and need) a LOT of water, and much of the time you can actually leave water standing in the saucer without overwatering themÂthatÂs what I did with mine when I had it to make it easy! If you do go shopping at PaulinoÂs or somewhere else with a good selection of house plants, DONÂT get a gardenia! IÂm sure youÂd be tempted, but they donÂt do well here, in or out, because of our low humidity, and it will eventually die or look so bad youÂll want to put it out of its misery! Lots of things you can try, including things that look "tropical." They might not all work, but thatÂs what gardening is all about! Skybird P.S. Bruce, loved your comment about breaking the boyfriend in graduallyÂLOL!...See MorePoolside potted palm or plant for almost full sun in 7b?
Comments (10)Thank you all so very much for the input and ideas. It's very helpful. I've seen a few photos here of what some of you have done, and they are breathtaking. Any good sources for all of the suggestions? I am glad sagos are pretty hardy because I love them! I would gladly go for large ones if I thought I could keep them alive. I am not familiar with the sizes of planters, but the ones we have are some of the largest ones you can buy at the garden centers. Dimensionwise, maybe 26-30" high and 20+" across? I can get larger ones for the palms if need be. (I did forget to mention we have 2 cats and 2 dogs who all spend a lot of time out there, so something that is safe and non-toxic to pets is very important to us.) What we are trying to accomplish is a bit different, because the only place we really have to put our tropicals is around/on our pool deck. Our house is on the edge of deep woods, and the pool is raised, so we don't have anywhere back there for planting - ergo the plan to have potted tropicals. We have a large garage where we wintered a 7' rubber plant in front of a window. It was on a rolling cart that we could put outside on nice days. The plan would be the same for the palms. That plant goes in the only area that is in shade or partial shade for a lot of the day. I've enclosed pics of the area we'd like to put the tropical palms plants in. A large portion of the deck - on the right - is not shown. I also plan to put in an outside shower in the area of the pool deck to the extreme left (difficult to see - it's between the wooden deck and the left edge of the porch), and would like to put potted plants in that area too. I don't have to worry about privacy as we are on acreage with no nearby neighbors. We cut the trees back since this pic was taken, so it is almost full sun all during the day. What do you think of some long, low planters in between the columns? The porch is very large, so there would be room for something there that maybe trailed over the edge of the porch down to the deck? Suggestions for something like that? Any more ideas on how to dress this deck and porch area up with tropicals would be super! Thank you. :) Here is a link that might be useful: Pool area...See Moreplants in less sunlight doing better than plants in full sun.
Comments (10)I don't agree with blanket statements that more sun is always better. While this might be true in places with high humidity and lower elevations, here in the hot arid SW at 5000 feet, there is such a thing as too much sun, and plants which receive a few hours of shade/partial shade always produce better and are less stressed. Plants here that receive 12 hours of direct sunlight will develop a blasted look in the summer where the color is more grayish-green than lush green. The lower leaves get leathery faster than shaded plants, and the leaves rarely provide a flattened surface to the sun, no matter how carefully you maintain moisture levels. At a certain point here, sun ceases to be a critical component and becomes a stress factor. Plants grown in buckets in these conditions do even worse. They dry out very quickly, and the buckets can get extremely hot when placed on surfaces like concrete, brick, or stone. To help, you can put a layer of mulch in the bucket to help retain moisture, and if your ground temperatures are high, you can place the bucket higher up on some type of stand. Regarding your plants, yellow pear does have thinner, more sharply jagged leaves. It's typical of that variety. Under the right conditions, they can become obscenely large. Since you only have one plant to compare, it might not actually be the conditions that are unfavorable, but it could be the individual plant itself. When you transplanted the yellow pear, was it still in any type of peat container?...See Morejp10a
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSucculentSavvy (Zone 7b)
5 years agoHelen Agius (Adelaide,Sth Aus) USDA Z10b
5 years agomyermike_1micha thanked Helen Agius (Adelaide,Sth Aus) USDA Z10bmyermike_1micha
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoChris (6a in MA)
5 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
5 years agomyermike_1micha
5 years agoHelen Agius (Adelaide,Sth Aus) USDA Z10b
5 years agoChris (6a in MA)
5 years agoHelen Agius (Adelaide,Sth Aus) USDA Z10b
5 years agoChris (6a in MA)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
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