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Calling Plllog! About Oven Location
Comments (10)Hi Everyone! So nice to be missed. Thank you all for the kind words. Breezy, not in Europe, but you got the lack of internet right, at the most inopportune time. Meantime, I've been tackling some big projects. I'm always available by e-mail (through My Page). (Even during the big outage, I had my phone. ;) ) I haven't much to add. I don't have any appliances with clearance issues. What I can say is that my single when open 90 degrees has room to spare for removing the racks. The entire cavity is clear and then some. The measure from the edge of the handle to the inside of the door is 3", but the door overlaps the trim. The handle only protrudes about 2". I rarely open the door much past 90 degrees. If you have something big and heavy, you might want to use a barbecue mitt. The door of my toaster oven gets hotter, though. In ultra modern kitchens, they install these flush, where 90 degrees open is the only option, so it really should be adequate....See Moreplllog - how are things going??
Comments (38)Plllog - hope the tile arrives soon so we can see it :) As far as a "usable" kitchen, you'd find it quite comical to see what we consider "usable" :) We have most everything still packed up, other than odds and ends such as spices, a few pots, pans, dishes, etc in various cabinets or drawers. When we're trying to actually prepare food, we run around like chickens with our heads cut off trying to find what we need and make do with one kitchen implement (a spatula) for all food prep - haha! Well, the electrician is a total idiot (as basically all the subs our wonderful (haha) GC has used during this never-ending process. Both electrician and plumber (two REALLY important areas with a large remodel) have been horrible and the only thing they do really well is gripe and moan about how much longer everything takes them than they estimated with their bids! We basically told them that they can gripe all they want but the job needs to be done and they should make a note to adjust their bids accordingly in the future! I'm honestly not sure what was going on with the wiring for the pendant lights, other than the fact that they do come on, but cannot be turned off, leading him to make the comment that a wire must have been cut. Somehow there's power to the lights, but it isn't getting to the switch which doesn't make sense to me. I honestly don't understand any of it and only expect him and the GC to come up with a solution that DOES NOT involve cutting into the kitchen ceiling. Under no uncertain terms is he going to do that. Oh, no, conduit wasn't used because it isn't required here, but he did use Romex. My husband said that worst case scenario we'll use a wireless switch - at least he thinks that can be done. I hate to think what else the electrician has screwed up though! Of course, the GC and electrician were both supposed to be here today, but shock, shock, neither showed up or called. Totally typical. Rubyfig - thanks for thinking about me :) I feel a bit better after simply making the decision that we are moving out of the basement this weekend regardless of what is or isn't going on. I'm determined that I'm going to semi get my life back, even if things are still far from finished!...See Moreplllog, more Q's for you
Comments (5)Hi Eleena, Sorry I missed your message the first time around. I've been caught up in the holiday whirl and don't always look in. The cabinets are all custom made (small local shop, choose the materials, debate the exact sizes kind of custom). The boxes, however, are the standard Euro style full overlay. The part you're calling an inset effect is just chunky framing panels. That was done for style. Usually, people just use the same thickness as their cabinet boxes. My cabinetmaker showed me the chunky ones, which are 3/4" and I really liked the look. That also gives a margin against the wall for hardware (so it won't bang with the door open), which is nice, though not necessary. I'm pretty sure these panels are veneered rather than a solid bamboo product. The boxes, themselves, are maple surfaced plywood. The uppers don't have "light rails" per se because I don't like the look. There is kind of a hybrid between a stabilizing apron and light rail supporting the bottom shelf, with the cabinet door covering the whole thing. Functionally, yes, they are light rails, however, and also hide the plugmold and junction boxes and all. Here are a couple of mid-construction photos, which show better: The lift door hinges are Blum and were purchased by the cabinetmaker. Everything made out of wood was included in the price of the kitchen, including a couple of redos. The very fancy hinges (which are huge) cost beaucoup, but allowed me to have a single panel above each cooler, instead of having to break it up with multiple doors. Worth the money to me. I am, in general, an advocate of function first, rather than looks, but the single lift doors, while they don't really affect function much at all, and if so are probably easier to use than multiples, are one of my big splurge for beauty items (another was an extra couple of hundred dollars so the Advantium wouldn't have a black touch panel (beige instead)). The lights above the sink are cans, and not particularly small. The cans are housed in the cabinet bridge on either side of the heater duct. These particular cans can be either incandescent or halogen (there's a different insert for each), and I would probably use them more if they were incandescent, as planned, but at the last minute the numbers were off for compliance with the California law and they had to be changed out. They're not bad. I just like incandescent light. It's softer. The glass diffusers make a huge difference, however, and when I do use them, I'm thrilled that they're there. I worked with a lighting designer (Brian Brzycki at Walters lighting design gallery) to make sure I could use the kitchen at night without bugging my eyes. These glass diffusers are the kind that are used near showers, et al., to keep out spray, but they also spread the halogen light around and make it more general (more like incandescent). I have these same cans in the corners, by the pantry, and three in the butler's pantry. The glass diffusers also keep the ceiling from having the Swiss cheese look. I hope this helps. :)...See Moreplllog or other induction importers
Comments (1)Sorry, Boreal, I was in the midst of holiday cooking and didn't see your message. There really isn't a good reason to import Induction nowadays. There are scads on the market and most have all the important features. Wolf makes a 24". While I love my little Gaggenau, if there had been something available here, I wouldn't have done it. When I first started planning my kitchen were were a few 24" models in the U.S., but they had disappeared by the time I was ready to buy. Additionally, a lot of the units available then didn't have a good variety of desirable features and a lot of comparison shopping and reading of manuals was necessary to understand exactly what one was getting. I did use a dealer. I had tried to buy through Spanish and French websites, but they had such good prices because they had strongly enforced sales territories. I didn't want to impose on casual friends to tranship for me. Since I only know a dozen or so words of German, I settled on paying a bit more and buying from the U.K. There, the unit I wanted was only sold through kitchen design shops, but by e-mailing around I was able to find one that would do it for me. They took delivery of the cooktop, then sent it to me by FedEx. FedEx took care of the importation documentation and duty, and only charged a $5 fee (at the time). I knew my unit would work here because I did my research. I started with the owner's manual and advice in the Appliances forum (where a lot of people had recently imported induction because just a year or two earlier it was practically nonexistent here. Then I checked with my local Gaggenau service company. I had a good conversation with the weird installations specialist there (high end appliances get lots of odd requests). He assured me that it would work, but that if it didn't do 60Hz it would throw off the clock and I'd need to make a cheat sheet if I wanted to use the timers. The unit, however, was made for use in the Middle East as well as Europe and was set up for 50 or 60 Hz. I also discussed it with my appliance dealer here and the one I ordered from. This isn't like buying a book on Amazon UK. It takes a lot of planning and effort. I was also advised by the Appliance forum crowd to check whether a non-UL appliance would be accepted by the building inspectors and my insurance company. The only stipulation they had was that I had to have a licensed electrician do the installation. It is absolutely vital that you document these things. I'm not sure what you mean by "nameplate". If you mean the label, no, it's installed and I don't know what it says. It has been over five years, and I have a good memory, but not that good....See More- 8 years ago
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRusty thanked dcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m
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