It sounds as though the vent associated with the standpipe is obstructed preventing air in the drain line from escaping as it is initially displaced by the draining water. Another possibility is that you could have a partial obstruction in the standpipe trap or in the drain line to which the standpipe is connected. Although, if this were the case, you'd be more likely to see the water drain initially, then spray out as the line backs up. Try snaking out the vent pipe (which you'll have to do from the roof). If that doesn't solve the problem, then snake the drain line. Also, check your washer drain hose to be sure it isn't kinked anywhere allowing pressure to build up as it begins pumping out water. You might also try rearranging the hose where it enters the standpipe. Try turning the inverted "J" on the end of the hose so it's hanging on the opposite side of the standpipe. It may just be angled peculiarly, causing the initial blast of water to spray out. You can get a manual snake (a 12 footer should be sufficient) from your local home center. If yours is a newly constructed house, contact your builder and get him to sort it out.

I could write exactly what chispa said. (We have other lovely things in our home that I have no issue keeping neat/clean/working, but my sons and husband (and dog!) not so much. I can't police stuff or clean extra - annoyed that I'm cleaning it b/c they aren't as careful as I am - any longer so I made choices on our bathroom renovations that accommodate that.)

@avaaustin The process of attaching fiberglass mesh to ceramic/porcelain tile differs from natural stone processing. Mesh on the back of ceramic mosaic usually doesn't have a layer of glue between the mesh "cells". At same time, the main reason of "resin backing" attached to natural stone is to reinforce it and fiberglass mesh is attached using a "glue" that is mostly polyester. It, first, adds an impervious layer to the back of stone and can significantly reduce the evaporation. Secondly, there could be problems with how well the bond is between the mesh and the substrate since dry set or polymer-modified mortars don't adhere to it very well. True porcelain tiles, whether sealed or unsealed, have >0.5% water absorption. At same time, marble is a translucent stone that will still absorb moisture as vapor even after an impregnating sealer is applied. I can't tell you whether Bulletproof sealer will help you in your situation. With properly installed water-in, water-out system and stone with no "resin backing" it is best to avoid any sealer. That's my strong opinion. Sealing the stone but not sealing the grout will not make any difference. Impregnating sealers are all considered permeable but if there is trapped moisture under the stone unsealed grout won't help.

I'm referring to the hinged doors affixed to the shower head wall popularly sold by Kohler. They actually swing in and out and are held in place with friction from the rubber sweep at the bottom. They work pretty well. They're commonly found in the big box hardware stores. It's the alternative to partial, fixed glass partitions. The idea is to gain access to the valve for turning on the shower. The back wall would be at least 4 ft high. I should have included that info in the original post. It can't go much higher because there is a window. I don't think there's much concern of water escaping on that side. For me the biggest concern is how effective a glass door/partition is that leaves the back 18 to 24 inches of the side open. The doors are made for this configuration but I'm curious about real world application.