When a plant loses its leaves, its demand for water decreases markedly, making over-watering a potential problem if the grower doesn't recognize that a lighter hand on the watering can is going to be required until the plant gets its happy look back. Tiff's suggestion about the dunks is a good one, but the gnats are more a symptom of the underlying over-watering problem than a direct threat to your plant. IOW, get the watering under control and the gnats should go away. When you use the words 'slimy' and 'soil' in the same sentence, warning flags go up. How appropriate light levels are and your soil choice probably have more influence on how successful your growing experience is than any other factors. It's essential to be able to maintain a happy root system if there is to be hope for a healthy plant. On that point, there should be no debate. I'll leave you with a link to a thread that offers ways to avoid all the problems growers most commonly come here seeking a remedy for. I hope it helps you, and leaves you with a sense of how important soil choice is to your ability to maintain plants consistently in good vitality. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Click me to go to follow the link ....

Thanks so much for your posts. I just recently did the same thing with my sandcherry which I've had for about 5 or 6 years. I planted it near a fence and this year it was too close so figured I would move it. The gardeners told me not to uproot it in spring since weather was still cold so I listened, but then realized that other garden workers had dug it up halfway so roots were exposed anyway. So I decided to move it. Now it's in a much better location, but looks like your first few photos - dried up and basically dead. I will prune it back like you did and see what happens. After you pruned it, did you also put a lot of fertilizer on it to help with roots?

I think you've done amazingly well to bring that tomato back. I saw the previous discussion but didn't have high hopes. There is a lot of new growth there, just as you say, perfect the watering. You might try the bamboo skewer trick. Stick one down into the pot and leave it there, draw it out like a car's dipstick, to see where you are at. The root zone should be moist but not wet. Also, you could take a shoot off the top of that plant, and start another one. It is easy to root tomato cuttings. With what you've learned the next cycle should go much easier. Here is a link that might be useful: VIDEO: Propagating Tomatoes from Cuttings

This is my first attempt to root semi hard kiwi cutting taken in spring/ summer. My attempt is to keep it simple. I kept the male and female hardy Kiwi ( Anna) cuttings, in water for a week.. They just grew long!!! Last night, we finally, had rain!!!! lots of it. So the conditions are perfect to to start my rooting experiment. This morning, I made smaller cutting with 2-3 nodes( 4-6 ") , stripped the leaves, dipped in Rootone powder, and planted in 2 pots. Some of the cuttings are semi hard and some are new tender growth. I am trying to keep it simple. I will check to see which , if any, root successfully. Wish me luck!!! It is muggy, very ( will be high 90"s) hot and juicy, right now.. Crossing fingers and waiting. If any one else here in the Raleigh Durham , area has done this, already, Please chime in... I look forward to hearing from the kiwi experts.. comments, or any advice...