Treated Wood and Raised Bed Garden
Jordan Pogorzelski
6 years ago
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alternatives to pressure-treated wood for raised vegetable beds?
Comments (13)Osage Orange is legendary for surviving soil contact. Black locust is almost as good. See if you can find either one. Nothing wrong with using untreated douglas fir (or whatever they have where you live) in thick dimensions. It will last for a few years or even 5 years. Then you rebuild. Don't forget to staple hardware cloth to the bottom if you have gophers where you live. I also use galvanized metal straps on the corners of mine to keep the edges from separating. I mostly make by beds out of 2x6 douglas fir. I have one or two made out of 2x6 redwood for comparison, but they are quite new. If you use 4x4's they will take longer to rot out, but it will be more expensive and heavier to deal with. I design my beds to be exactly 4 feet wide on the outside so that I can use 4 foot wide rolls of hardware cloth. I use 8 foot lumber for the long edges. In my climate, with dry summers, I expect the fir to last around 5 years, but I don't yet have 5 years of experience with them yet, so we shall see. I expect to use the hardware cloth for at least 10 years, which is good, because it is expensive! Oregon state did a study with many types of wood fenceposts. There are a lot of rot resistant woods out there. But Osage Orange was the only one that had zero failures during the whole 50 years they did the study. In other words, 100 percent of the Osage Orange fence posts they installed in the beginning of the study were still serviceable 50 years later. I've added a link to the study in case it is of interest. Obviously the climate is different from yours where the study was done. McKenzie Here is a link that might be useful: Oregon State fencepost study...See MoreRaised Bed, Treated lumber ok?
Comments (16)When I built my current framed beds 20 years ago, I used PT lumber. At the time, it seemed like the best idea since sliced bread. But after 20 years, I have to wonder just how much is left that can leach into the soil. And the newer ways of treating wood do seem to be a lot less potentially harmful that the old arsenic compounds. So I am a bit conflicted about what to say now. After thinking on it for a while, I would say that I sure wouldn't re-use any of the old PT wood to make new frames, probably wouldn't buy new PT wood, and plan to replace my existing frames (and the soil within) with either artificial wood or cinder blocks (and new soil). The artificial wood is not cheap and isn't terribly strong either (thinking of how often I put pressure on the frames while turning the soil to add compost). I think I'll redo my deck tops with it (adding more joists), but use cinder blocks to replace the old PT wood garden bed frames. And I kind of like the idea of having the holes in the tops of the cinder blocks to plant flowers in all around the edge... I'll have to learn about cementing the blocks together though (an undiscovered subject for me at the moment). On the other hand, if I had some reason to use PT wood (like having a bunch on hand or a cost consideration), I would line the bed with pond liner (best) or black plastic (OK). That would have to minimize any leaching, I think....See MoreRaised Beds, how if not treated wood
Comments (49)"The new modern treated lumber still comes with warnings that say do not use regular nails/screws because they will quickly dissolve" The immediate fall back to ignorance and fear in this forum is astounding. Rather than learning something, people just start screaming that the sky is falling. The reason that PT wood corrodes standard steel nails/screws is it has large amounts of copper in it. The copper-to-steel contact causes small galvanic currents to happen, and this speeds corrosion. Its the same process as why you don't mix galvanized and stainless fittings, or aluminum and steel fittings. Two unlike metals touching each other will always set up small currents and corrode when they get wet. That doesn't mean its dangerous. This doesn't mean its going to make you sick. The same goes with the guy above posting that brick dust is carcinogenic, so hes not using brick. Brick dust is only carcinigenic if you breath in large quantities of it over a long time (IE, if you're a mason, or work in brickyard). It's not going to be dangerous at all in a bed. (Silica is sand. If Bricks cause cancer in soil, so does sand)...See MorePressure treated wood for raised beds
Comments (10)They still use the arsenate version but it's pretty much restricted to industrial uses like guard rails and trestles. It WILL leach, but the amount is small and the amount that even the hard core anti-chemical people (like me) say that could possibly be "taken up" by a plant and put into the edible bits is a tiny fraction of that fraction. It all boils down to where you draw the line in the sand, but I doubt, if you hire a whiz who owns a mass spectrometer, that you could find any amount of chrome, or copper, or arsenic in your garden food that is in any way different than normal God-given background amounts. But avoiding poisons in your food is a whole rigor, not an individual chemical thing. There are people here who dump poisons on their crops and say it's just fine. It's all up to you....See MoreJordan Pogorzelski
6 years agosusanzone5 (NY)
6 years agoJean
6 years agosusanzone5 (NY)
6 years ago
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