Could you put a strip of quarter round up against the tub to cover it up?

Mom2reese: First of all - congrats on the new babykins... Second, way COOL faucet! Third - your question: Yes... you can remove the caulk - a razor blade and alot of patience will be needed. HOWEVER - unless you get WAY back and scrape out ALL of the coloured caulk - when you reapply the clear - the CLEAR will transfer a small amount of the colour through - kind of like a shadow of the shade... the only want to do it right - and this is going to be about as easy as getting your gumbs scraped - is to remove the sink from the stone - you'd have to "drop" the sink down from it's support system.... Then....... scrape off all of the coloured silicone and apply a new bead of clear silicone before you raise the sink back up into position and re-attach it to the supports (clips or sink setting cradle - ie - undercounter mounter - sink setter, etc) re-set the sink, and use the clear silicone to do the new seal - do NOT use the silicone ONLY to attach the sink to the underside of the stone....... ON THE OTHER HAND...... You COULD live with what's there now - to echo everyone else's opinion - and I concur... it looks really good as it is......... It's just how much does it bug YOU - as YOU'RE the one that's gotta LIVE WITH IT..... hth kevin

I agree with the above.... And I'd add that if anything won't stick, it would be the new stain over old silicone residue. Also, if the interface that you are referring to is the wood sash stile/rail to the glass, that generally does not get a bead of silicone or sealant externally anyway. Someone may have added that after the fact.

This definitely looks like a sloppy silicone job. Call the company you hired back out to take care of this. If they are truly a "5-star" company, they will fix mistakes like these and do whatever it takes to stand behind their work! As for the basic principle of how "slab" shower systems work, in response to some of the comments above, the Onyx Collection product is designed to work with a proper 100% silicone application in the corners and expansion joints as part of the system's PRIMARY waterproofing. The walls are installed via use of 100% silicone both as an adhesive and as a "seam fill" in the corners and joints, preferably over a code-compliant WATERPROOF backer board like DensShield. Greenboard has a water-resistant face that is not waterproof; while the DensShield has a waterproof face. Our company has installed many Onyx systems, and we do them over DensShield, not Greenboard or any of its "water-resistant" analogues (there are many). The corners and joints must be fully and properly filled to maintain the primary waterproofing integrity of the system. In the unlikely, but possible, occurence that one or more of these joints ever fail (through inevitable expansion and contraction that naturally occurs), you need a totally waterproof board behind them. This generally differs from tile, where the PRIMARY and ultimate waterproofing layer is built behind the tile wall system. With tile, you still want to follow TCNA guidelines and use a properly-tooled bead of 100% silicone in all corners and joints (as opposed to grout, which will crack), as these places will expand and contract regularly. However, it is important to understand that the silicone application with a tile system will only serve as a SECONDARY waterproofing layer; it's primary purpose is to prevent visible cracks in corners and joints that you would get from using grout only. Many residential and commercial tile installations still have improper, grouted corners and joints, which is why they almost always have visible cracks in these areas.