Mom2reese: First of all - congrats on the new babykins... Second, way COOL faucet! Third - your question: Yes... you can remove the caulk - a razor blade and alot of patience will be needed. HOWEVER - unless you get WAY back and scrape out ALL of the coloured caulk - when you reapply the clear - the CLEAR will transfer a small amount of the colour through - kind of like a shadow of the shade... the only want to do it right - and this is going to be about as easy as getting your gumbs scraped - is to remove the sink from the stone - you'd have to "drop" the sink down from it's support system.... Then....... scrape off all of the coloured silicone and apply a new bead of clear silicone before you raise the sink back up into position and re-attach it to the supports (clips or sink setting cradle - ie - undercounter mounter - sink setter, etc) re-set the sink, and use the clear silicone to do the new seal - do NOT use the silicone ONLY to attach the sink to the underside of the stone....... ON THE OTHER HAND...... You COULD live with what's there now - to echo everyone else's opinion - and I concur... it looks really good as it is......... It's just how much does it bug YOU - as YOU'RE the one that's gotta LIVE WITH IT..... hth kevin

I have a hard time believing Weldbond can be submerged in a birdbath. this is a quote from Linlee's test "After the glues finally dried, actually 1 glue, the Weldbond took forever. I plunged the test into water for a total of 3 days. The SiliconeII looked the same coming out as it did going in...kinda murky with bubbles. Of course it was still as removable as always using a blade. Also note that this is the only one of the three that can be used for leveling. The Weldbond pretty much slid off of the glass at about 3 hours into the water bath. But note that when it actually dried it was very clear. The Mac dried fast and clear. That milky haze eventually went away. At the 3 hour mark the edges of the glue that were squished out of the test piece did start to get a milky edge. At this point it was really easy to pull this overflow off with my finger nail. But even after the 3 day mark I couldn't pry that thing off without fear of shattering the test plate."

Your fixture does not appear to be heavy. Turn power off to this circuit at the breaker box. Remove the globe and bulb (to lighten the load). Remove the fixture from the wall. Its held on by two screws. Gently lower it and let hang on the wires. Now, you have unimpeded access for scraping the caulking off the brick. When you rehang the lamp, leave a 'drip loop' in the wires inside the lamp base. (Shape the wire so that the final length of wire entering the lamp socket points up, e.g., any water on the wire will drain down and away from the lamp socket.) If you decide to caulk, apply silicon sealant on the mounting surface of the fixture. Apply only to the top and sides leaving the bottom unsealed for drainage. Tighten the mounting screws and wipe away (mould) excess sealant. Do not over-tighten. Turn the breaker back on and test for proper operation.

Thanks for the comments. all I can say is when i put my nose up to the edges of the glass where there is silicone, I can smell the odor I am referencing. Same with the fixtures. Very strange that Thermasol who makes steam generators would recommend a silicone type that isn't approved for use in a steam shower? With all of the ineptitude I have experienced through this process, I suppose it is possible but this is what they told me they include with their steam control and steam head for sealing inside the steam shower. Heinkel is closed at the moment but I will call them tomorrow to ask about the Loctite SI 595. As for waiting 30+ days before steaming, the build out, tile and glass install were complete prior to April 15th. The only thing that is one month old is the seal around the fixtures inside the steam shower as the plumber originally used water-based acrylic seal, which I know isn't approved for steam showers so I called Thermasol to get a silicone rec, removed the acrylic myself and hired someone to appy the silicone around the fixtures; that part was done about a month ago. I am still smelling silicone along the edges of the glass and around fixtures. I did not smell a smell until after the glass was installed so I do not suspect it to be a thin set or mortar issue. I first used the shower in late May and the steam shower 2 weeks ago for the first time; the smell was too intense to continue. Does anyone have advice on how to air out cured silicone smell from a steam shower?