I'm not sure I'd want to buy from a company that doesn't understand the meaning of the word "regressed." :)

We went for function, and installed a a fan Motion and Humidity Sensor with light in the shower. The cats set off the motion sensor all the time, but the fan dries out the shower completely and no mildew!! I updated most of the 6" can lights in the master bath with LED retrofits like these Can light replacements, and installed a semi flush pendant using a Can light converter kit in the center of the room.

http://noralighting.com/uploads/specs/NIOB-2_spec.pdf Nora Lighting makes a 2in wet location recessed directional LED light. This should be the perfect solution for your space! We have a lot of success with the Nora recess light fixtures.

Unless you are talking about an A or BT lamp that needs a reflector in a recessed fixture, lamps in a typical recessed downlight are spots or floods with an internal reflector in the lamp (R, BR, PAR, MR, etc.) so the trim has little effect on the light that leaves the fixture other than to increase or decrease the amount of glare from the trim ring that is visible from across the room. Therefore, the choice of trims for such lamps depends more on how you want the fixture to appears in the ceiling. A grooved black or white baffle (coilex) trim or a deffused cone (low reflectance) trim can reduce the glare from the trim ring but the more important issue is how deeply the lamp is recessed in the fixture because the glare off a trim ring is never as strong as the glare from a bare lamp that is low enough in the fixture to be visible from across the room. For a deeply recessed lamp, when you get close enough to see the lamp, the fixture should no longer be in your normal field of vision (in other words, you would need to look up to see it). For that to occur with a 4 inch fixture, the recess of the lamp should be about 1 1/4 inches. That is the first thing I would look for in a typical recessed downlight. Of course, these considerations don't usually apply to specialty trims like pin spots, eyeballs, gimbal rings, wall-washers and enclosed shower lights. So, first decide what you want the light to do (light a wall, a work surface, a shower or provide a dramatic accent or general downlighting). then decide on how you want it to appear in the ceiling (deeply recessed, baffled, defuse reflector, bright reflector, black, white, silver, copper, bronze, round, square, pin hole, gimbal ring, lensed, etc.). Then choose a lamp type (R, BR, PAR, MR/GU, etc.) and then choose the kind of light (LED or Halogen) (halogen can be line or low voltage) and if it is integral to the fixture or uses a separate lamp (retrofit) and then choose the housing (air-tight/insulation contact or not). But when you have a good idea of what you want the light to do and how it should appear in the ceiling its best to go to a lighting store or electrical supply house and ask to see a few fixtures that meet your requirements in their display and compare them to the others by switching back and forth and dimming them. For LED fixtures ask which dimmers should be used. Avoid Home Depot and Lowes for fixtures and lamps. The things I would avoid are A & BT lamps, any fluorescent lamp, eyeballs and any downlight where the light source is recessed less than 1 1/4". My current favorite fixture is the 3 1/2" integral LED Lytecaster L3 series from Lightolierwith a white baffle & white flange or a diffused cone & white flange. I prefer the diffused cone but it costs more.