Potted plants don't have to go the entire height to make the cans significantly less visible, which are already behind the woodwork to begin with. And any plant in a pot of any size is already going to be hoisted up by the height of the pot.

While the true bush form 'Brunner' would probably fit nicely the usually sold 'Climbing' or 'Spray' versions - actually a whole different variety in the latter case - would definitely be too much for this use. Awhile back I noticed a 'Climbing' near here that had somehow grown up a utility pole and was spreading sideways on some upper wires. (It was of course removed, presumably by utility workers after it had gotten to that point).

In my area there are vendors that offer pretty much nothing but large decorative pots. In addition to the full service independent garden centers that carry these also.

A morning glory bloom is only going to be open in the morning and on very cloudy days. You might also want to add a moonvine with it. It will be open in the evning and be fragrant. The white ones (Ipomea alba) are fragrant. The lavender moonvines are pretty but not fragrant. I often grow moonvines with morning glories. There are some neat Japanese Morning Glories out now that are just stunning!

LOL! I only grow the bush and it's lost its canes to the cold.

I actually was wondering from the ground to the lower deck as that is how far a rose in the ground would be in the dark before it could emerge into the light through the lattice. Then it could be trained in the outside of the lattice to the upper deck. If there is not Nate ground you could place the pot there and that would also lessen the height the canes needed to be by however much the rose was elevated. I like the idea of the planters being built around the rose pots too.

I have no solution for you but really recommend cl Renea . Mine blooms all summer ( loaded up now with buds ! ) smells great , thornless , super easy to train , most disease resistance rose I have in my garden . There is no downside to this rose whatsoever.

Mine is finally as tall as me . I'm in a colder area than you , and on a cold windy hill so I think your better temps would make it especially lovely .

sultry.. have you shared photos of your morning glories and moon vines ? I sure would love to see .. don't want to hikack this thread but maybe you could start a thread ? I have some ideas for my deck too.

Wow! That's what we're saying! Where there's a will there's a way. What a rose. : ))

I really appreciate everyone's comments. They go a long way in helping me figure out what would work in this spot.

I am learning a climbing rose really should be best here - I just hope I could get away with a container that is not so large, per previous recommendations.

The ones in your post, Lizzy (Chris') seem smaller than the one I have available (about 16 inch depth).

You wouldn't happen to know
the dimensions of Chris' pots?

That whole arrangement looks perfect - this is what I am
trying to pull off.

I learned it's kind of hard to find really deep containers in stores.

I fond one at HD today, it has a 20-22 inch depth and it is a monster. Also they are not kidding with the price (100$). It was some mix of stone, fiberglass and resin...or something like that.

If something that large (depth at 20-22 inches) is a MUST to sustain a climbing rose that needs to grow the distance you see in my original picture (8 feet from deck floor to top of rails, which would mean about at least 6 ft for the plant since the planter raises it automatically but I would also like to make it cascade over the rail...then I am willing to pay for a pot that large.

But if you think I could get away with the one I already own (in picturer above), which doesn't seem to be any smaller than Chris van Cleave's ...then I would be happy to plant in what I have.

Would you advise me to pay for a bigger pot - just in case?

I will briefly post a few comments/questions about the varieties you suggested. Overall, I am trying to reconcile the following features, with the first two being obviously the most important

1. Climbing

(I can see that a large regular shrub might work fine to cover the non-glamor area behind the lattice, but I really would love it if it could grow like an actual climber to reach the top of the rails and then spill over it a little. This would require at least 6-7 feet of growth, and the straight up canes of a large regular bush might not create that effect).

1. 2. Able to handle a container (so no massive climbing variety)

3. Disease-resistance, good for the humid south

4. Continuous bloom, as many blooms at one time as possible

5. Color (least important)

White or very pale pink ideally, bright orchid pink would be nice too.

(No classic red or yellow/peach) .

Regarding the varieties recommended:

Cecile sounds nice and I will check out the disease-resistance for south.

I love Renea too but I hear it is prone to disease...and in the South that will be sure fire.

I am really starting to lean towards Collette since it was tested for the South by
Mr. Redneck Rosarian and that could save me a lot of headache.

I am just confused about the "repeat" vs. "continuous" classifications.

Heirloom classifies Colette as a "repeat" yet it describes it as "blooming continuously from May all the way until the first freezing of the season."

My understanding was that there are 3 types:

- Once blooming

- Repeat (spring, then one more time late summer/fall)

- Continuous

After all the headache, you would think everyone would want continuous.

Yet I have seen "repeats" described as "blooming from summer till frost".

I am not sure which is which.

All in all, I am hoping to have it blooming continuously all summer long.

Is this even an option?

Thank you all so much!

I would SO love Zephirine Drouhin - but it is suscetiblpe to black spot in the south. :-(

If it was me, I'd get one or two of those big resin barrel planters from Home Depot, which are about $20 each. As early in the season as possible, I'd start some Sweet Pea seeds and plant them in the pots, to climb up the lattice. Since they fade as the hottest part of Summer comes, I'd also plant some Moonflower (Ipomoea alba) in the pot to take over later in the season. Their leaves are larger than their morning glory cousins, and they'll cover that area in no time. If you end up not liking them, you're out just the cost of a packet of seed. And then the following year, you could try something else, like Black-Eyed Susan Vine. Or maybe a vine isn't what you want at all, and maybe something like Cannas or Elephant Ears would be preferable, around which you could plant assorted annuals to fill and spill.

I don't think a climbing rose is a good idea there.

:-)

~Christopher

Lowe's had some great big pots this year that were taller than wide. I hope to get a couple. They were terra cotta coloured, but plastic. i think they were $15-$20.

With all respect.. I am in the south and Renea does not get disease. But neither does my Colette . I hope you find one you love .

I do think you can make it work at least a year or two or 3 in pots . Also check lowes .. or Walmart. I got beautiful pots at Walmart ( better home and garden brand ) I would use for a rose if I wasn't doing elephant ears in .

I'll go snap a pic

They were $30 and well worth the cost

I'll have to look for those Lily! I've got several from Dollar General that are big and will work fine, but they aren't nearly as nice. Is it a hollow cast plastic/fiberglass/something?

They are lightweight ! Maybe hollow plastic but sturdy ? Not cheap looking at all in my opinion. They had another urn style I'd like to get too . I can't find them on their website for some reason to link it ..

Lily,

I guess maybe we could start an O/T vines thread lol. I have a ton of different vines and some japanese (and regular) morning glory / moonvine pics too. I am also growing a bunch of new (to me) Japanese Morning Glories this year, like 15 or so that will be blooming real soon.

Waow, Christopher - that would turn everything on its head. Again. :-)

Posters here opined against a vine that would have to be removed each year to maintain a neat appearance or that would latch straight onto the painted wood (that IS painted wood, btw).
Why do you think a rose would not work in this spot?

Lily,

Everything I saw at Walmart did not have a depth higher than 16-17 inches.

How tall is your white planter, Lily?

I am glad to hear Renea doesn't live up to its "disease-prone" name, especially in the South. This is great!

Another consideration rearing its head is that it might not be bad to consider a shade-tolerant variety here.

That spot does get good morning and mid-day sun until about 2:00 pm. But after that, the sun goes a bit over the house and right around that time the house itself starts providing shade for the spot.

I guess that can be good in the hot southern afternoon sun...but is approx 7am-2pm enough sun for a rose?

That's the question....

Also, Lily - you said it could work for 2-3 years in the pot.

Any specific reasons why would it stop working after 3 years?

Grow too big? In this case, would pruning work to get it back?

Will it need a complete change of soil?

Just trying to anticipate any problems ahead.

I don't know the size of Chris's pots, but photos can be deceiving. I imagine they are large. The larger the better for a climbers.

Lizzy,

Yeap. That's the problem. Objects in the pics may be larger than they appear. :-)

I am afraid Chris' pots are much larger than they look there.

After all, every time I read about planting a rose - any rose! - they say "dig a hole 2 ft deep". That's 24 inch deep!

Let alone for a climber in a pot. The depth must be at least 20", I assume.

Pots I have seen that come close to 20" in depth look really giant in the store.

So it looks like I am going to have to pay for one of those.

Would this one from Lowe's do?Nothing that deep is anywhere below 60-70 dollars.

Lowes 20" H Pot

Okay, here is what you do, and this is coming from someone who knows zip about growing roses….. lol
Under the top deck (behind the lattice) install a large plastic trash can, that has the bottom cut out, down into the ground. Deep enough that the top of the can is level with the flooring. 3 inches would be fine, just cut off some of can sides. Fill the can with good rose growing soil, plant the rose, and then feed the canes out through the lattice. Spread the canes such that they will cover the lattice as they grow upward. You might want to install a watering drip system before planting. Or a funnel.

I agree with Lilyfinch that a Cl Renea would look great in that areas. A Star Jasmine would also really cover that area or a nice Clematis.

toolbelt,

The trash can area has cement, not dirt/ground. :-)

But now I can see what someone earlier was trying to say...it wouldn't work.

A container is a must here, unfortunately.

It is either container - or nothing.

The resin barrels at Home Depot are only about 12" deep. Personally, I wouldn't put a rose there because it's right by the stairs, which means you'd be walking past something that could reach out and grab you. Additionally, I think you are asking a bit much in terms of bloom performance for a climber growing in a pot -- growing and blooming that much would need more than a root mass in a container could easily provide without a lot of attention to feeding and watering.

Moon Vine and Sweet Peas climb by wrapping, not clinging, so no worries about them ripping off paint. After hard frosts, they turn brittle and snap off easily. Being annuals, they wouldn't need to establish roots for more than one growing season, and refreshing the potting soil each Spring is easy when nothing is still alive inside.

But, if you want to skip a climber -- and I agree that it wouldn't be necessary to obscure the view of the garbage cans behind the lattice -- you could easily put together a mixed planter every season. Or, if you'd rather do something once, look at an evergreen shrub for there. That you'd be able to train and prune flat against the lattice. If you want to add color, you could still put annuals around it every year.

Oh, and one other option. What about something spilling down from the railing, rather than growing up from the ground? If you pay attention to watering during the Summer, a few Sweet Potato Vines cascading down from the railing would quickly grow large enough to obscure the garbage cans. Or, one even easier option, why keep the lattice open down there? If you want to keep the look of it, you could put a piece of wood painted black or white (or whatever) behind the lattice.

:-)

~Christopher

Fantastic ideas Christopher!!

The soil will need replacement I would guess every year . The roots will start to get rootbound and the rose not be as happy. If you started with a small own root rose .. then 3 years could be possible by I'm not sure. A grafted rose will be more vigorous and probably only be happy 2 years . A lot of cl roses take that long to really take off and be happy . I did ask on Chris Instagram post how large the pots are but no response yet. He grows beautiful roses. He just spoke at our rose society meeting but I don't make meetings bc I have a toddler. I bet it was interesting

I see. So no rose here. And no vines that cling to wood either.

My understanding was that Morning Glory Heavenly Blue clings. Is that correct?

I do like the look of Moon Vines. Not sure about Sweet Pea...but considering Moon Vines will only open in the evening, I wouldn't mind some blooms that can be seen during the day too.

Can Moon Vines and Sweet Peas be mixed together?

Should I buy seeds?

This spot really is a complicated one.

I don't want just a container with some non-climbing annuals. That may cover enough of the garbage can area behind the lattice but I also want something to climb higher than the lattice to reach the upper deck.

Moon Vine it is then.

Could you put some sort of obelisk in the pot that the vines could grow up on?

vaporvac,

I guess I could...but why would that be necessary?

So it will avoid growing/clinging onto the wood lattice?

There are annuals which will grow tall enough to reach the railing. Look at Castor Oil Bean, or some of the taller Nicotiana species -- both easily grown from seed, or you could probably find the former for sale as plants at your local nursery. There are also some tall Cannas that would work -- you could do a bronze-leafed Canna in the pot and a chartreuse Sweet Potato Vine spilling down from the railing pot above, or use a solid green or yellow/green striped Canna and a purple Sweet Potato Vine.

Another option would be a tall-growing ornamental grass in a pot. I had Miscanthus 'Andante' years ago and loved it, but I don't know where to buy it these days. Along those lines, you could also do a Fargesia bamboo there.

:-)

~Christopher

Great replies and options here for you. I’d personally grow jasmine. You can even get evergreen jasmine for all your round coverage. Smells amazing too! Good luck with whatever you decide on in the end :) x

Hyacinth bean vine is an annual here and is very vigorous. For the past 3 years I have been experimenting growing MAC in a large smart pot in a location that is shady. It has grown 8 ft but rarely flowers. I knew it was not likely to succeed, but tried anyway. I am going to try more fertilizer so it can grow into the sun.

In terms of containers (not for MAC) I bought a rectangular one on Houzz made out of corten steel for climbers. It has drainage holes and insulation against heat. Pricey but fits the tight spot I have under a window perfectly.

Check out this product from houzz - https://ml.houzz.com/RGX5EKSR9L

Might be a silly suggestion but what about those giant Hibiscus? I have few and they are increadible beautiful. Very low care. They die back to the ground every winter, but they come back every year strong putting flowers all summer and they are 5 f tall. Also very light weight BUT super bushy. Hibiscus Mocha Moon might be a good choice

Thank you all for your latest suggestions.

I spoke with the guys from heirloom too and they too touched on the impracticality of placing climbers in containers, even though they said many people do it anyway and it can be done with some extra work.

I will give up the rose-in-container for this lattice spot - too much trouble.

I do want to put some kind of climbing thing to grow up on that lattice - but I want to make sure it won't be some monster vine that will cling to the wood and destroy the paint. Something that could be easily removed/cut back in the cold season.

From all suggestions above, which climber would be easiest to handle in this respect?

Darren, would fragrant jasmine grow well in a container?

I would love a morning glory/moon vine combo too but I am afraid they would get too massive and would cling to the wood too much.

If vines fail too given wood paint considerations, I guess a tall container with some tall, spiky plants and other colorful annuals around - and I would call it a day for this spot.

Thank you all SO MUCH!

As I mentioned earlier, Morning Glory and Moon Flower (and Sweet Peas, and many others) climb by wrapping tendrils around their supports. They don't form aerial roots that velcro on, like Ivy. After hard frost, their top growth dies and turns brittle, making it very easy to pull off the support. I wouldn't mix the two, since Moon Flower is big enough on its own. Even if the blooms aren't open during the day time, the foliage is large, heart-shaped, and attractive. Flowers begin opening around dinner time, so eating out there would provide an opportunity to watch that happen.

:-)

~Christopher

So it's between Moon Flower and Jasmine.

I just called my local nursery (too "dangerous" because it's so close I can walk there in 5 minutes) - and they said they have the star jasmine plant.

I suppose I would have to start Moonflower from seed.

So I am leaning towards jasmine. If there are any downsides to jasmine I should keep in mind, I would appreciate the warning.

Thank you again!

Depending on the type, some Jasmine can grow to 20 feet. Those which tend to stay smaller also happen to be the ones that aren't as cold-hardy. The most commonly found one that is hardy enough for a pot in your climate -- Jasminum officinale -- also happens to be one of the largest ones. Additionally, it's really more of a scrambler than a climber, and will need to be trained and tied to that lattice. Where it "climbs" on its own is among trees and shrubs -- sort of falling and leaning on them, then growing upward from there.

:-)

~Christopher

I grow lots of climbing roses in large plastic pots. I get them from Ace Hardware. They are about 20" I believe. The roses do just fine. I have one on each side of an arbor at the entrance to the dog pen-turned veggie/rose pen, and two at each of the 4 columns of my metal bird feeder pergola. I'm also growing climbers in pots all along one side and the end of the pen. It's got wire fencing and chicken wire up to about 8-9ft high. I'm trying to get a variety of climbers to grow into the wire to make it look nice. I also have a lot of other potted roses in there. I can't plant in the ground there because our new leach lines are underneath. When our son's old girlfriend was living with us, she got this dumb dog who was supposed to be a pit/black lab mix and he ended up being more like a black lab/great dane mix. He was a friggin' horse and climbed the fence and got out all the time, so we had to keep him inside the pen and put chicken wire up above so he couldn't climb out. Thankfully, she moved away and took the dog with her. So I moved my veggie beds inside and put potted roses all over inside the pen. It's about 10' x 30' so I can fit lots of roses in there.

Here's a pic from last yr when I was getting the weed barrier put down under the pergola. With the bird feeders hanging there, the dropped seeds grow lots of weeds on the ground come rainy season! You can kinda see how I put two of the large sage green plastic pots with the climbers at the outer sides of the pergola columns and then placed several decorative ceramic pots of varying sizes all around there. There are HTs, FLs and minis in those pots. Also in the background is the enclosed pen with the arbor where I potted up CANCAN and STORMY WEATHER climbers on either side.

Anyway, I think you should put a couple of potted non-climbing roses
there. No real need for a climber. Personally, I wouldn't put anything
that would attach itself to the lattice. Just a couple of big tall HTs
that will sort of obscure the lattice would look good. You could put a
few smaller pots in front of them with mini roses or some kinds of
perennials or annuals. Whatever you decide to do, I'm sure it will look nice.

I grow a couple of different jasmine both indoors and out from rooted cuttings to use as annuals during the summers. It's actually quite hardy depending on the type. It has wrapping tendrils rather than sticking roots. However, if these wrap through your wood they're still a pain to remove; they won't pull off the paint (is that paint or stain?), but will weave behind the lattice, which is why I suggested an obelisk. I make my own obelisk so they're cheap and completely obscured soon enough anyway.

Diplandia is a very pretty plant I would grow. It's nice because it's not a water hog, comes in many colours and is easily available these days at the big box stores. It will get huge, but is easily cut back. They're selling a dwarf non-climbing variety also, so be careful to get the climbing one if you decide on this. One can also overwinter it in a cold space.... I've had both of mine for many years now.

Thank you, Christopher!

Moonvine seems to win then...blooms all summer (my understanding), doesn't cling to wood.

It gets kind of large...but hey, I'll try it a summer.

I just hope it is not self-seeding/invasive and could send seeds all over my yard.

I ended up in my yard with a Sharon hibiscus seed landed from who knows where and a year or two ago I noticed the nice flowers and I kind of shrugged. OK.

But this year I realized it is spreading like crazy. It made one millions babies all growing in a row and some are now quite big.

The yard guy is going to have a lot of work to do to uproot all those crazy plants.

Vaporvac,

Oooohhh!! That is a nice one! I saw it at the store and thought it was some kind of Mandevilla (which apparently it is). I didn't realize they are distinct, though.

Then how about that?!

I love the flowers!...I will look int it too, if it doesn't stick to the wood.

Any possible problems to keep in mind in my particular spot?

Welll.. I would probably have to take this discussion elsewhere, because this IS a rose place, after all.

But it was really helpful to make me understand that this spot was not meant for a rose in a container.

I will stick a few roses in flower beds though.

My Dick Clark is waiting for me to decide on a spot for him...Climbing Pinkie on the way...and that will have to be it for a while so I can first see if I can handlr them.

Until a couple of weeks ago, I thought nobody really grew roses outside of commercial giants with large green-houses and 100 tricks up their sleeve.

I have been bitten.

Thank you for your input, beth.

I know it can be done but I am probably going to try either a climber plant that doesn't stick (latest consideration is Diplandia, per vaporvac's suggestion) or what you said - some non-climbing tall plant.

Will put something there to cover that trash can somehow.

I'll have to look up moonvine. I have the native, but it's a shade vine and really never flowers (or maybe I'm not out to notice it!)

I think a climbing Dipladenia (or Diplandia?) would be nice if there are no serious objections I am not aware of. :-)

I grow Jasminum officinale very well in a not so big pot. It’s tied up a trellis and over my back garden door. I just add slow release fertiliser to the soil once a year and it’s very hardy and happy.

Involved vertical space is actually too small for many kinds of climbing roses, let alone are these types required there for enough screening to be produced. And yes the need to re-pot is yet another reason not to have potted roses (or other woody plants) attached to the wood-work. At least in such a way that they would have to be cut back in order to get them loose. And of course each time that was done the remaining growth left attached to the woodwork would have to be removed and discarded.

The repeatedly used 2 ft by 2 ft rose planting hole recommendation is nonsensical. Most kinds of plants produce a comparatively wide and shallow network of roots that stay near the surface, where the air is. Except with certain species adapted to desert environments even those trees that drive a percentage of roots deeper concentrate most of their roots near the surface.

I think if you wanted to try a non climbing rose in a pot you should go for it. I think someone suggested a hybrid musk rose that would more shade tolerant but would grow tall enough to hide the garbage can. You could also put the moon vine or whatever vine you wanted in another smaller pot and let that grow next to the rose. I say experiment and see what works for you. You really don't have anything to lose. I also like the idea of a hibiscus. Good luck!

Thank you boncrow! Nice idea.

Morning glories won't harm a wood structure. They twine around it. Once it freezes the vines dry up and crumble. Pulling them off is super easy.

SeverNovice, You already have some nice roses, but I'm sure you'll see that soon you'll be noticing spots in your beds where a nice tidy rose could fit. I spy a wonderful place for a Hybrid Musk next to the garage and a few spots in the slightly shady beds for a Gruss an Aachen, Bolero, Lindee, Yvonne Rabier, Tooth Fairy or Cecile Brunner and an assortment of other polyanthas. They're wonderful for sticking here and there and bloom their little hearts out. Please keep us informed with pics and things leaf out and start to bloom.

Dear all,

I ended up with a white Mandevilla for the trash can spot. :-)

Hope it will work well. It looks like it will climb up just fine but I am not sure how wide it grows. I may have to add another one there.

I also plan to add a few other small annuals at at the base because the container will be quite large, but it should be fun seeing the Mandevilla climb up.

As for roses...I am already up to 4:

1 old KO (it's starting to bloom again after restoration, but blooms are quite small and the foliage sparse).

1 Good Old Gold - recently planted...magnificent bloom, but definitely a variety with very short-lived blooms.

1 Dick Clark waiting to be added somewhere in the same bed where Good Old Gold went, just further away from the tree roots. I'd meant to return it until a nice poster here convinced me to wait. I am glad I did because once the bloom opened well, I could definitely see its beauty. Once it matures, blooms will be even larger. It's a keeper.

1 Climbing Pinkie on the way from ARE; it will go in the flower bed behind the deck rails to hopefully climb on it and spill over.

Yes, vapor...I've already eyed a few more spots where I could add a few more roses in the future; but for now I am just trying to see how I will do with these four.

It's a steep slope for me - since 2 weeks ago I had no idea it was even possible for anyone to grow roses in the South, other than a KO.

The bed across the garage - where Good as Gold is and where DC will go too - looks rather empty but this is because it is full of tree roots.

Normally, I would try to squeeze a lot more there, but it's so hard because of the thick roots everywhere.

Trees are nice but not when they stay in the way of Divas like roses. :)

Sorry to revive this, considering it is no longer about roses in this particular spot.

I just wanted to post a picture of the Mandevilla I placed in this container together with a couple of other plants at the base. I already had these - a daylily from past years and a plant with tiny true-blue blossoms, I forgot the name.

I just hope the Mandevilla vine will grow, climb and expand enough horizontally, not just vertically.

Right now it is far from covering the non-glamor area behind the lettuce.

I am curious to see how far it will go this season.

The pot looks so small for the place in the picture; but in real life, it really is a little monster (large and heavy).