I might be amused or maybe even slightly incredulous about how another private citizen spends his money, but the fact is, how I feel doesn't matter, and it's none of my business - unless his actions directly infringe on my rights. Usually, if it's a public entity that I suspect as being wasteful, I might consider my vote as my voice after carefully considering what a reasonable man might conclude about whether the common good is being served. If I think a reasonable man would conclude an action is wasteful or difficult to construe as being done in the light of being for the common good, I might make a phone call to gently press the point that my vote is indeed my voice and I can be expected to use it. Applying the 'reasonable man standard' by asking myself "What would a reasonable man do or conclude about a particular situation" is something I use for guidance on a very regular basis - even here on the forums. It's amazing how well it works to bring someone (ourselves, is what I mean here) around to being, well ......... reasonable. Anyway - when I ask myself if a reasonable man would be going on about the reasonable man standard on a forum for houseplant growers, I can see I'm in serious jeopardy of being considered witless, so I'm cutting myself off before I erase any vestige of doubt. Al

You need to look at the trunk area to see if the root flare, where the roots come off the trunk, is at or just above ground level. This is how the shrub would grow in the wild, and how it should be growing in your soil. If you see a straight "post" going into the ground, you need to dig around and see how low down the flare is - if only an inch or so, then gently clearing back the soil from that area in a gentle slope should be OK. The problem with burying the root flare is that A) it can encourage rot on the trunk and in the roots from too much moisture being next to the trunk, B) it can mean that the roots are too deeply buried - roots grow in the top 8-18" on soil, usually, needing to be that close to the surface to allow for oxygen exchange and C) it generally isn't good for the tree and the roots. If the flare is deeper, then I would dig up the holly this fall, and replant it so that the flare is at the correct level. In your sandy soil, it isn't such a big deal as it would be in my clay, but still it's better to have it right. As you are finding out, and as Lilgreenfrog says, plants, especially trees and shrubs, take a minimum of 2 years to be established, and need supplemental watering for those 2 years, plus more in long, dry spells in the third year. While you are correct that "native" plants don't get that in the wild, they also grow roots at the rate that the water available to them allows (many of them not surviving), and therefore their tops and root systems are in balance. Because you planted a larger plant, either from a container or B&B'ed, the top and root systems aren't in balance, and you have to take care of the plant while it grows enough roots to support the top. If you haven't, do spread mulch. It keeps the moisture in the soil, it keeps the soil cooler, it enriches the soil as it breaks down, it limits weeds and grass competition, and it replicates the forest floor of the native plants, which should have several inches of leaves, etc., at any time. Use any good, aged wood or bark mulch, spread it as widely as possible, no deeper than 4", and don't put any in the inch or two next to the trunk. And don't be too discouraged, you just didn't know, and now you know more. We have all been there, and probably done that as well! Kudos to you for planting natives - in a year or so, they really will be just about maintenance free.

I have one Nellie Steven. About 18 months ago, I had one large Maple tree removed from the front (due to disease and crowding), well, I noticed that the Nellie Stevens was completely lopsided as half of it was in shade of the Maple. The part in the sun, was growing fast. I have other Hollies (Japanese, Blues, China series...so, I noticed the difference. Now, I expect it will recover some decent shape as it is in full sun. So, this variety can handle full, southern exposure and a good deal of heat. Meantime, my Blue Princess/Prince holly that are in shade are fast, those in the sun have either never taken off or seem stunted. Location, location, location as they say! I suspect the clay soil is less of a factor, my soil is also fairly clay. Makes a great tree if provided its space. Birds also love the berries (had a flock of wild turkeys crazy about them a couple of weekends ago).

I have had the same issue with the native pecan trees, in Texas. The oak leaf hydrangea lasted three years. I love roses, but haven't tried them, yet. I didn't want liriope, but it moved in, and is doing quite well, much to my chagrin. But I have a thing about removing living things, so there they are! 😀 I've experimented with several native plants, and have found that yaupon, Turk's cap, (aka Mexican apple) does well, as do Christmas fern, St. John's wort, and artemisia. Daffodils, lily of the valley, and bearded iris have survived thirty years, with absolutely no help, as have the rosemary bushes. Oak trees, redbuds, and Eve's necklace have been next to the pecan trees, for thirty, to fifty years. Sadly, the mints, bee balm, and lemon balm only made it two years. On the upside, I've seen non-natives that have survived at least twenty-five years, such as Japanese boxwoods, nandinas, and ligustrums. The gardenia bush died within three months, even though I pampered it. Juglone is a real bugger, but the pecan tree is our state tree, the birds love them, and they provide a squirrel circus that is often hilarious! Loved your article, Hawkeye_Belle! I love roses so much, and I've spent thirty years wondering whether my pecan trees would do them in. You've provided some excellent information!