Dekeoboe, thanks for your suggestion. I will try to look up Tech Lighting T Trak system. I have so far not been able to find a transformer, where the home has a good number of other low voltage lighting systems (bedrooms, bathrooms) where I do find transformers . . . so the fact I haven't found one so far seems a promising fit with your thought that it may be the T Trak system.

There are some low voltage track systems out there, but by and large it's 120. You are right connecting pendants to track is usually an afterthought so most don't make a whole lot of track pendant fixtures, buy what you like and use the adapter. There are three common track systems: Halo and Juno as you noted and there is also lightolier. Halo tends to be the cheaper and more common in my experience and you can get a second independent circuit (it's three conductor track) if you need it. Both the "house brands" at Lowes and HD are Halo compaitbnle track. You can't put a Juno or Lightolier fixture on a Halo Track (and vice versa).

Hello, I am finishing the attic with Gable sloped ceiling. Collar beams will be exposed but high in the ceiling. I have 16' track lights to fill. Ridge beam is at 91" from floor. Area is 12' wide (by 91" long). I was thinking about Trac-lite by Juno: http://www.junolightinggroup.com/system-details.aspx?id=162 and flared gimbal PAR30 heads (I will change the bulbs to LED): http://www.junolightinggroup.com/product-family.aspx?name=JU-R532&xtmc=R532WH&xtcr=4 Any idea about how many heads I need? Thanks in advance

You can probably just buy new LED lights for your existing track. I has the large cans and found three small modern looking heads with colored glass lenses at ReStore for $1 each and just bought LED bulbs at IKEA to replace the halogen lights. You will need to remove one of the existing heads to check the type of track, some has 2 conductors and some have 3, some are line voltage and others are low voltage. The lights usually push against the rail and twist out or might have a pull down spring loaded connection. They might be a little stiff but shouldn't be too tough to remove so keep trying until it pulls out without needing too much force. I have known people to just pull and end up breaking the little tabs on the connection to the track