Just take a look at what height your taps are in your current finished bathrooms. The height is not something that has to be standard, as long as it is comfortable for you.

cotehele, 1/2 of my base cabs were trimmed and installed Friday (I was so excited I couldn't sleep). I only got to see them at night in poor light (kitchen lighting not hooked up yet), but I loved the 3/4" reduction in height. I will be on site later today and will double-check the toe room. If you haven't already put your flooring in, it might be an option to install the flooring (depending on type) after the cabs, thereby effectively lowering the counter level. I did just have a 3/4" wood floor put in and suggested this to my contractor - he said it was possible but preferred to shave 3/4" off the actual cabinets toe kicks. I did realize I was probably losing my chance for toekick drawers, but felt the trade off was worth it. The only toekick drawers that I knew about were also very expensive (for my budget at least). My range is going to be in my island and I am leaving it at regular height. Many in GW like remodelfla have recommended two counterheights so I followed suit. jon1270, thanks for correcting me so tactfully - I didn't realize it was only the uppers that were in 3" increments.

I don't know what you intend to do regarding backsplash height (that's the distance b/w the finished counter and the bottom of the upper cabinet and light rail), but here's what I usually tell people when they're considering the height for their backsplash. The standard is 18"...regardless of the reasons why, it's still the standard.. How this affects your kitchen.... Refrigerator and other tall cabinet heights...Because wall cabinets are meant to be mounted at a standard height, cabinet manufacturers take this into account when designing tall cabinets. Tall cabinets are designed to be the same height as the installed wall cabinets so the tops all line up. When you change the height a wall cabinet is installed at, it affects cabinet top alignments. With the refrigerator you can usually mount the upper cabinet a little lower OR order a shorter upper cabinet, but be sure you don't make the alcove any shorter than 72" tall b/c newer refrigerators are 70" to 72" tall (and seem to get taller each year!) With other tall cabinets like oven cabinets and pantry cabinets, they're a standard height and designed so they're the same height as the wall cabinets when those wall cabinets are installed 18" above a 36" high counter. If you have custom cabinets, this may not be an issue b/c your cabinetmaker can adjust the cabinet heights. But, if you are using stock or even some semi-custom cabinets, you cannot change the height. You can often get taller cabinets for use w/36" or 42" tall wall cabinets, but not shorter for 30" mounted lower. But, even those that are taller are also adjusted based on standard wall cabinet heights + an 18" backsplash height. Small appliance height...Small appliance manufacturers often design their products to meet this 18" standard...for example, my KA stand mixer (bowl lift) is around 17" and many coffeemakers and blenders are just short of 18". So, you need to be sure you have room under the cabinets + light rail to fit those appliances. Small appliances... Keep in mind that if you're using an appliance on your counter, you must be sure you have room under the base cabinets to move that appliance around easily. Don't, for example, tell yourself you're only going to use it in front of your upper cabinets so you don't need to worry about its fit. In reality, you will be moving things around on your counter while you work and most likely your appliance will be moved under the cabinets at some point. You don't want to tear your light rail off or damage it (or the cabinets). Also remember that "standard" upper cabinets are 12" deep + 1" for the door...so they stick out 13" over your counter...leaving you only 12" or so of workspace in front of the upper cabinets...not much room to work in by itself! (If you have deeper upper cabinets...say 15", there's even less counter frontage in front of your upper cabinets...3" less, so 9".) Vertical workspace... Another consideration is vertical work...

Thanks for input. Removing backsplash not an option & of course decisions are easier when replacing all! But, sounds like your idea is to tie new counter in to backsplash color. The backsplash & granite do look more color complementary to each other when seen in person! The granite background isn’t as white as appears & is warmer. It’s Santa Cecilia granite but the lightest example we’ve ever seen of it.