Oil based primer, 100 percent acrylic stain.

thank you.

Does acrylic mean water based?

Does it last longer than oil based?

Will I have to sand in 2-3 years before I restain?

thanks

Yea, I think the reason you are confused is because of the way we use the word stain. Solid and semi-transparent are both stains, but they are completely different. I just assumed that since it was rough cedar, that you will be staining it solid color (which means it will look painted when you are done).

oh, sorry! I am looking at semi transparent?

I found one stain that said "soy" water based. can't remember which brand.

I would think that anything based on soy would cause problems.

We have replaced soy based wiring in our cars 4 times due to rats.

Choosing between Ready Seal, Twp 100, and Armstrong Clark.

Armstrong Clark contains 50% linseed oil and 50% paraffin. Others just say paraffin. Not sure which is best for rough red cedar.

All say they add mildewcide...

And all websites say rough red cedar does not need primed.

thoughts?

I am not a big fan of linseed oil based products, as linseed oil can be a nutrient for mildew. It was for this reason that Behr abandoned linseed oil resins a dozen years or so ago. The present Behr, Sikkens and PPG are alkyd oil based. Alkyd is a synthetic oil which has been around as a paint/stain resin for a hundred years. The name "alkyd" is a contraction of acid/alcohol from which it is made.

I have personally used both the Behr and Sikkens with good results.

OIl products are usually one coat. Water based products usually call for two coats. Factor this in when figuring out up front material cost and labor.

psyche,

Red Cedar is LOADED with tannic acid which is water soluble. If you do not use tannin suppressing primer under WB solid hide stain or water based paint, you will probably end up with reddish/yellowish stains bleeding through.

Most of the water based primers require that they cure overnight, if tannin suppression is the goal. Traditionally, an oil based primer would be used to block the tannins from bleeding through.

Tannic acid bleed is not a concern with the transparent or semi-transparent water based stains, as their color bleed trough is accounted for in the formula. The oil based stains would not leech the tannins through.

If you are using a semi-transparent, then you do not prime. I don't think there is a decent water based option for semi-transparent. This is one of the only remaining areas where we still use oil. Sikkens is good.

I agree with paintguy22 as to use of oil semi-transparent or transparent stains. they are just superior to the water based versions.

Thank you to all!

I was worrying about tannin bleeding down onto the LP smart board siding below the cedar window trim.

Ok so I do not need a primer if I use semi transparent oil based stain. But I do need a primer if I use water based.

Linseed oil...I had heard about it causing problems. Armstrong Clark says they add something to inhibit mildew. Maybe it doesn't help.

Paraffi ...the other 2 companies say they are mildew resistant.

david jensen.....alkyd oil based... on Sikkens stain, is that Cetol 1 and Cetol 23 or is it Cetol SRD? I can't get any samples. Their clear coat turned the cedar orange. BM will only mix the semi transparent if I buy it. Then I can't return it. At $80 per gallon!!!

So Armstrong Clark is out due to Linseed oil.

any thoughts about the paraffin oil in Ready Seal or TwP 100?

thanks again!

Sikkens Cetol SRD says satin.....so it has shine to it?

Since this is for trim only, I don't want anything I have to strip off of second story windows and gable vents in order to restain it in a few years. I want to be able to power wash with a cleaner then restain. No sanding.

Doesn't Sikkens and Cabot's stain require stripping?

Some of the Sikkens products have considerable sheen.

Existing transparent or semi-transparent stains don't normally need to overly prepared if not let go too long. It is important to occasionally give a "maintenance" coat when you see it start to show wear.

You only need a primer under SOLID hide stains.

All good paint/stain products have a mildecide in them.

I am not sure how parafin affects the performance of stains.

If the wood to be stained has never had a water based product on it, it should accept additional oil stain. If it has grayed with age, you can restore the natural color of the wood using a deck cleaner. You should remove graying, as it will show through a transparent or semi-transparent stain.

Of course, if there is color from an existing stain on the wood, it too will affect the final look of the wood. Old color from a penetrating stain cannot be totally removed.

You really can't sand rough cedar anyway, unless you don't mind turning it to smooth. These semi transparent stains are one coat applications, so that means when they weather away, you can wash the wood and stain it again. You just want to avoid staining over stain, since these products are meant to penetrate the wood, not to be applied on top of themselves.

Usually a transparent stain that has been on a year or two will be able to absorb more stain. The goal is to give the wood all the oil it can absorb, but no more. On decks, it is critical to no leave excessive stain, as it will remain tacky for a LONG time ( stains do not have a chemical drying agent in them, as do oil paints). Rouge cut wood has had the grain ripped wide open, so it will absorb a lot more stain than smooth wood. Also, because of its vertical position, it tends to last longer, as water cannot pool on it.

thanks!