i have been posting on another Houzz thread regarding my White Quartz. Installed 3 months ago. White Denali Quartz from AZ Tile. It gets pewter color little lines from ANYTHING metal (stainless pans) , belt rubbing when u lean , mixing bowls, anything with an alloy as the guy from AZ TILE just told me. This has happened since day one. My fabricator didnt really know what is was. Most coming off with joy/ Palmolive detergent and elbow grease or bar keepers friend. VERY ANNOYING. Some hasn’t come off and Ive been told to use Magic Eraser and scrubbing bubbles without bleach. I will try today. Counter top looks great, but it’s NOT the easy maintenance everyone said it’s suppose to be as I am constantly having to wipe off these little grey lines. Also caused a lot of little lines when my sweater that had some plastic little stud like balls on sleeves was resting on counter. then I had a feathery herringbone effect of little whispy grey lines. . First pict is counter after Scrubbing Bubbles (no bleach) & Magic Eraser 2nd pict is counter after sweater rubbing. 3rd pict is Our Newly Remodeled Kitchen 4th pic is sweater I was wearing that made marks. SO, it took 10 sec using Scrubbing Bubbles (without bleach) and magic erase and damp cloth. Voilla!!! No elbow grease needed. Finally, an answer !! I wonder if this would work on your coffee stains??? swaeter that caused little whispy grey lines when my arm was resting on counter back and forth using ipad

Here are a some pics and my dilemma. Keep in mind this is my old fridge...new one comes today! Here is how we ended up with this: I have never had an enclosed fridge so didn't think about the peninsula dying into panels or how deep panels were going to be. I "semi" designed the new footprint and took it to Lowe's where the KD took over. (yes---I know......) Bought Schuler plywood with maple fronts cabinets. Although the kitchen designer had the model number of the fridge we were buying, which is a full-size, she designed the kitchen with 24" deep panels. She knew I was trying to have the look of an enclosed fridge. Being that I've never had an enclosed fridge, it was something I just didn't think of until the install started. Evidently she put a counter-depth in the design program because the elevation sketches she gave me showed an enclosed fridge. "Luckily" the panels actually came in wrong and were cut at only 23" for some strange reason and the installer caught it right away when looking over everything. Otherwise he probably would have installed them and I would be stuck. So called Lowe's to reorder the panels and somehow in all this it suddenly dawned on me that a full size fridge was going to be deeper and require deeper panels. I thought "no problem! Yay I can order them at 30!" By this time the KD had quit her job due to the pandemic. The other KD didn't know what was going on so we called in the Schuler rep. She was the one who immediately told me that those 30" panels would be sticking out in front of the peninsula. She asked if we could move the peninsula forward since the other side is an overhang for seating, but we couldn't since it would bottleneck the entrance into the kitchen down to under 36" and getting rid of an existing bottleneck was one of the reasons for the re-design to start with. So we had a dilemma. We cannot go down to a counter depth fridge which was the other option. What I decided was to split the difference and order 27" refrigerator panels. The fridge without doors is 29.5" so I will have about 3" of the side of the fridge sticking out which I don't like, but while I want my kitchen to look beautiful, I value the functionality too. The old fridge that you see in the pic sticks out a total of 32" The new fridge will stick out 34 with doors but without handles (4.5" of that is doors that would stick out anyway) Here's the really complicated part....we will be installing decorative panels on the end of the fridge as we have them on all the cabinets. This is how you enter the kitchen and I don't want that big blank space there next to the peninsula. The panels should be installed with just 1/4" reveal. I posted a photo below of how the panels look that are already installed on the side of the pantry that adjoins to a 17" high window seat. Luckily those face the opposite way from the fridge panels so you will never see both at the same time. I also posted photos of us holding up panels on the side of the fridge (they are NOT the right size panels...we have to order those still---we just used these to look at the right edge as to how wide to make the panels.) Also keep in mind we can remove the quartz backsplash piece if that would look better. That was not originally planned...the panels were going to sit directly on top of the countertop. So do we order the panels with just the 1/4" reveal to match the panels in the rest of the kitchen? Or, as the Schuler rep recommended, order the panels so they are the same width with the countertop, leaving about 1 3/4" reveal on the right side, but then your eye follows the countertop all the way up. I asked the countertop templater guy if I should just lengthen the overhang on the kitchen side of the peninsula to 2.5" to bring it out to within 1/4" of the fridge panel but he said no....I'm now thinking I should have insisted on it. Especially since we have full overlay cabinets that already make the overlay look very small since the 1.5" planned overhang is measured from the box, not the front of the drawers. Note how small the overhang looks to the drawers. And then of course, they had templated for a 1.5" overhang and I only got 1.25" UGH! Every quarter inch there would have made the reveal on the side of the fridge less. Suggestions appreciated! I'm hoping that I will eventually make peace in my mind with this issue and won't notice it but it is driving me crazy right now. I think of all the things that screwed up just because of this one error by the KD that I didn't catch and I am beating myself up for it!

Whilst I do agree with the above statement, though does not address why it is there. From the photo it looks to be from a 4" diamond polishing pad. Usually if this happens it is from a poor polishing technique and they run up onto the surface with the edge polishing pads. But this is not the case there. I would say they have chipped the edge or there was a mark in the surface. In any light something has been repaired in that spot. It has like sanding in a spot and why it is dull. It can be repaired but be aware of the difference in the compounds available around and methods of repairing be advised by those who are stone restoration qualified stone masons. And those who are just general contractors, even if they have some stone knowledge and experience. The statement about Quartz Renew, but it is only ever a blend of the polished surface. All the stone restoration guys that we know have the same issue with the Quartz Renew. It is only ever 90% of the reflectivity achieved, this means that the stone finish or polish in never the same as the factory finish. We are able to return the surface to the original factory finish for all Quartz brands, color and finishes. Including the highly polished pure white and marble look range. We are master stonemason not just a general contractor and have restored some of the most prestigious projects around the world. So we do know what we are talking about. Also we are one of a hand full of companies able to restore quartz stone or engineered stone back to the original factory finish. Just to give you some quantification to our advise. Whilst Quartz Renew is an ok solution, but it is far from perfect. It will only restore the stone to about 10% within the original shine or polish if you measure it with a gloss meter. It will NOT restore the high polished shine on marble look or fine grain quartz stone. As these are finished at about twice the gloss level. Yes measuring via a gloss meter is the same as viewing the surface from various angles to see the polish. If you do this ona Quartz Renew repaired surface you WILL SEE the slight haze where it has been used. Though it is better than leaving the surface as it was. The best option is Diamond Quartz Polish in the DIY-Trade kit. It returns the shine and gloss to any Quartz of any brand, colour and finish. It is a permanent solution as it nano activates the components the quartz is made of to achieve the polish and shine. The same as the factory finish. There is no hazing or shadow around the repair like quartz renew. It is best to AVOID using any of the following - the current big item causing etching damage is BLEACH or anything containing bleach. It is known to etch stone. Below are some links for similar etching cause by a wide range of etching chemical such as; Which will damage the stone and most likely have cause the issue to start with. 1) Windex - Window Cleaners 2) Bleach or bleach containing products 3) Oven cleaner 4) Drain Cleaner 5) Gumption 6) Magic Erasers 7) Jiff 8) Bar keepers friend 9) or any other abrasive or corrosive cleaners For example you can enter any product into google followed by MSDS to bring us the Material Safety Data Sheet. Where in section 3 all hazardous chemicals must be list by law. Along with the pH of the product in section 9. The optimum pH range for any surface and not to be caustic or acidic is pH6-8. This way no surface can be damaged from any cleaning product. Example of a google product search; - “Ajax Spray & Wipe MSDS” _____________

Pictures please.