Perhaps in the climate the link originated in, that method works. From over thirty years of actually doing it in MINE, not reducing water stress on any plant whose roots have been significantly disturbed, damaged or reduced is a sure way to severely impact the plant. Leaving the original top growth when the roots have been reduced results in loss of canes and foliage, perhaps even the failure of the plant in this climate. I would venture to suggest it might in others with the sun intensity, heat and accelerated transpiration rates similar to this one. If I transplant a four foot bush with only about a foot and a half of roots without reducing the top appropriately, this heat, sun and transpiration rate will induce the plant to wilt and begin eliminating foliage, softer growth and in many cases, harder, woodier canes until it re establishes roots to balance the tops to the bottoms. Cutting the top back to about the same mass as the root ball, keeping it well watered, even shading it with sheets, old tee shirts, cardboard boxes or soil, either as a mound over the remaining plant or held in place with a cylinder of cardboard until new growth begins showing, brings them through every time. IF transplanting can be accomplished during a period of sufficiently long rain, reducing the top growth isn't as critical. The lower temps, reduced sun intensity, higher humidity and the regular bathing by the rain maintains the moisture in the plant, tremendously reducing (even eliminating) the water stress. The provided link is from Washington State with their greater humidity, rain, reduced sun and transpiration rates. When the weather here is similar to that, I don't have to prune many roses and other plants to transplant them because of the conditions. Most of the time, it is NOT like that here and not reducing the top to match the bottom will jeopardize the plant. If the poster's conditions mimic those of Washington State's, perhaps they don't need to reduce the top to mitigate the negative effects of cutting off so many roots. But, if the conditions aren't similar to that rainy, cooler, damp, cloudy type, I personally wouldn't risk it. Kim

I'd move it right now. I'm not sure that moving it immediately after bloom before the new growth emerges would be the best option. Perhaps I'm incorrect, but I'd imagine that no matter how good a ball you dig, you're going to leave some of the roots behind. The new growth will need all the water it can get and if moved prior to that, the new growth and, for that matter, the next years flowers could be adversely affected.

Pat, I also have clay. Above ground level is good for your azalea! Azaleas have shallow roots and do best with well-drained soil. Put mulch that is acidic on top of the ground, also. Pine bark or needles, or something similar. The roots might eventually grow upward into the mulch, which is good for them. Test the soil in the new location and make sure that it is acidic enough. Soil pH of 5 to 5.5 is good. Otherwise your azaleaÂs roots will not be able to properly get nutrients from the soil. The peat moss (if sphagnum) will help acidify the soil. But it will break down extremely quickly with the help of worms. You will then have mushy, soggy clay which will eventually cause some of the roots to rot and a plant that is not at its best. Consider mixing something into the soil that will hold itÂs structure and that will not break down so quickly. It will also incorporate air necessary for healthier roots and you will have a healthier plant long-term. In the past I thought soil amendments were for the purpose of adding nutrients to the soil as they broke down. I now have some sickly looking plants that IÂm nursing back to health. I have finally begun to understand that other amendments are necessary in order to promote healthy root growth. Roots need air for good health. The azalea nurseries in the Southern states use pine bark nuggets and milled pine bark as a growing media because it is acidic, breaks down slowly, drains well, and allows the roots to get the air necessary for healthy growth. The mini-nuggets hold volume longer than the finely milled product and hold more air for more vigorous root growth. Perlite can also be used to introduce air to the roots. Another option (but more expensive than Perlite) is the baked clay soil amendments and heat expanded shale products such as "Soil Perfector" (read this: http://www.hollytone.com/content.aspx?type=sp ), "Turface MVP" by Profile Products or "Haydite". Small lava rock pebbles are also good amendments that can provide air spaces for roots and will not break down. My county extension agent told me something interesting regarding recent research on a better way of planting azaleas. Around Atlanta we have red dirt that is often referred to as Georgia red clay. Rather than adding amendments to the red dirt they now say to just take the azalea out of the container, place it on the ground, and mound pine bark mini-nuggets or pine bark shredded mulch slightly above the height of the container and at least a foot beyond the leaves. Once the roots invade the pine bark you will have a healthy vigorous plant with excellent roots. It requires frequent watering during the first year but I usually have to do that regardless. She said this will also work for blueberries and other acid loving plants. John Here is a link that might be useful: An explanation of good soil components

welcome. wait until cool or cold weather to transplant azaleas. december or january is a good time. they are very shallow-rooted (bog plants tend to be). they transplant very easily -- even mammoth ones can be transplanted. be sure to plant them slightly (a couple of inches) above their (previous) surface -- the one thing that azaleas cannot stand is wet feet. they will quickly settle back to ground level. after transplanting, you should trim them heavily, by about 1/3. you'll lose the first season's blooms. air potatoes are a nuisance, but patient maintenance is the best way to deal with them. it takes a couple of years, but if you control them by pulling the vines, eventually you'll get them out of your plot. when we moved in 5 yrs ago, the yard & trees were covered in them. this is the first year that they are almost completely under control. think of them as compost. with all things that flower (i can't think of an exception except maybe fruit trees), the best time to prune is right after bloom. azaleas are very tough plants. it takes a certain sense of purpose to kill them.