Hi K-Monster! CC has a tint-base. * This HAS to be used for tinting ANY color, even off-whites. * The CC "stock white" is a whisker Gray IMO...even a tad on the blueiish gray side... * If I'm shooting a light ACE formula, I grab the CC-tintbase, and just shoot the ACE color. Turns out perfect! * I've got sample boards of CC's White, and ACE's Cabinet/Trim paint. The ACE is much whiter, and has all 4 tintbases avail. So, in ACE, you could do a Burgundy Cabinet-paint! * The tint-base CC is whiter, and therefore the accurate base. You'll never get a color correct by using the "White" base for tinting. >>> Priming your cabs- Not entirely necessary. Scuff-sand...definitely! >>> Additional sealant...Not needed OR recommended. >>> Brushes...the best you can afford- Ideally, a Purdy Chinex or Corona Chinex. >>> Paint inside...I wouldn't bother! Unless you have some glass-fronted doors. Cabs are closed 98% of the time anyway! You MAY want to investigate the FPE's ECO Cabinet Paint. I've sampled it...WOW. Faron

Christophern thanks. I guess I'm somewhat confused with Sheen vs smoothness. Also wanted to see if i can improve my my technique or application to achieve a more glass like finish. Since I only painted a few of the backs so far, think I'm going to switch to sw. Can anyone comment on their experience with sw's proclassic acrylic-alkyd /hybrid version?

More labor intensive to brush on so stands to reason there is more cost. We're in the process of remodeling our bathroom and are going the DIY route. We built a vanity and a linen cabinet and after what seems like exhaustive research, have decided on a product called, Cabinet Coat (formerly called Insl-x) recently bought out by Benjamin Moore. We had it tinted in a BM color, Simply White. All research on this product suggests a rock hard finish that requires no top coat, delivers a smooth finish, is easy to maintain and will last for years and years without chipping. I just finished painting the vanity today and here's my take: 1. Although the can states you only need 2 coats (one primer and one finishing coat), the raw wood soaked up quite a bit of the first coat of paint and ultimately took 3 coats for full coverage. As the paint is expensive it would have been better for me to prime with a less expensive (but still proven) product first. 2. I used a Purdy angled brush to cut in and then a disposable foam roller for the flat surfaces. Spraying is only as good as the person who sprays it on and I am no pro. Brushing gave me more control and the product leveled enough to make me look better than I am. 3. Prep is key to any project and this is no exception. I sanded, vacuumed and tack-clothed first. The Cabinet Coat sanded down great with 220 after each coat. 4. The satin finish is not as shiny as wall satin paint, which turned out to be a good thing for me as I didn't want a glossy finish. If you want something shinier you can put a topcoat on but performance-wise it's not necessary. Time will tell if this will last but it came highly recommended by a cabinet refinishing pro.

"Cabinet Coat is the ultimate finish for refurbishing kitchen and bathroom cabinets, shelving, furniture, trim, and crown molding. Delivers an ultra-smooth, factory-like finish with long-lasting beauty. Adheres to "hard-to-stick" surfaces, including polyurethane and varnish, without a primer." Ultra-smooth finish Urethane-acrylic formula Refurbishes worn cabinets Covers hard-to-coat surfaces without a primer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .This hardens over a week to a pro finish miles better than latex. Here.