how to deal with gaps at the bottom of hedge
alex
6 years ago
I am trying to fill the gap at the bottom of my hedge fence so that my neighbor's little dog or some raccoon (happened once) can't get into my backyard. I tried some garden lattice but it seems too intrusive... any good idea? (any comment is appreciated!)
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New house, old hedge, how can I revive it?
Comments (15)OK Ken - back down :-) I was composing my response while the OP responded so missed the part about fertilizing to offset shearing. Agree that is not a valid reason for fertilizing but to completely dismiss the need for fertilizing, especially if the garden (therefore the plant, any mulching and the soil) has been neglected for an extended period of time is not valid either. Soils often need to be refreshed with nutrients, either via a good organic mulch or with fertilization - necessary nutrients are not present endlessly in unlimited quantities. They become depleted overtime, especially with a mature but untended garden. And "renovation pruning" is not a panacea for all shrubs. Generally that method is used in reference to deciduous flowering shrubs - broadleaved evergreens seldom respond well uniformly to that method and hedge plants in particular are typically approached differently with regards to pruning. Not trying to be contrary, merely accurate :-))...See MoreWhat tree/hedge is this and how tall can it grow
Comments (40)Curious: what did you end up planting? We have a similar situation; we live in a very dense, urban area and want privacy in our single family house from the adjacent apartment building. We'd like to plant along the fence line something evergreen, dense, tall--20-30'-- with columnar habit and a narrow base. The only thing I see out there that grows fast enough is the skyrocket juniper, which won't do well in Seattle's moisture. Can't deal with bamboo. We've had it before and it either flops over or spreads like mad and becomes a massive property value liability. What was your solution?...See Morehow to fix gaps in tote worm bin
Comments (2)IME you don't. I tried fixing the gaps and it didn't work. I would say just worry about the bottom for catching leachate and the first bin. That's what I've ended up using. If you really want to make it flow through add another bin on top later on when the first is ready to harvest. The best way to avoid fruit flies is proper feeding management. Freezing the food first is supposed to take care of fruit flies. It also helps since I have way too much to give them, I ended up w/ a hot compost pile also to deal w/ the rest. Make sure there is plenty of newspaper or bedding on top of food to prevent house flies. Keep moisture at a happy level also to prevent mites etc. Lots of indoor vermicomposters, the gaps really aren't going to matter....See MoreRange-to-counter gap. How bad for slobs?
Comments (22)It's like moving my Wedgewood--while protecting the floor. I do agree somewhat with Weissman in that the gunk down the sides hardens and just becomes part of the sides until you scrape it off. I don't know about modern ranges, but our Wedgewood has a front bottom panel that pulls off for sweeping under. Again, no insect problems that wouldn't be caused by poor housekeeping elsewhere anyway. (And if you have that, you fire your cleaning service and get another, right? :) Where I'm really coming from is that keeping all surfaces of a range and the space it occupies is a lot more work, and if I were buying now I'd insist on a flange, easy movement across the floor, and any other easier-clean features some might have. That way it's not big deal and I wouldn't find myself one of those who don't keep it up, find themselves putting off finally tackling what's become a big job, then start thinking about it in the middle of the night, i.e., the critical mass "coming alive" and forcing me to take on an unnecessarily lengthy and tiring project because the grime had hardened up so much. And I'm talking a couple months, not 30 years. 30 years would actually be better; my experience is that in just a few months food will begin fossilizing. But since I already own mine, all this is the reason standing it alone on a wall seems quite workable. Done this before, and I wouldn't be afraid of keeping it up in my old age. In fact, I like the idea....See More
gtcircus
6 years agoIf you want screening, you can plant ornamental grass and daylillies. If you want to inflict pain to animals chose something with thorns like barberry. Frankly the only time the grass will be thin is spring because you cut it down so it grows back green. Once it is established no critter will be going in.
alex thanked gtcircus
alex
6 years agolooks like some fencing + bushy plants is the way to go. I think we probably will do garden fence + Nepeta/catmint. Thank you all for the comments!
(Rex, yes, it's supposed to be a leggy shrub and actually it's owned by my neighbor so can't do much with it)
(Cor, we probably can't install fence on the back side since it's my neighbor's property)
alex
6 years ago
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