ChrisK, This is from a nursery's description of the NSH, they sound perfect for your requirements. Ideal selection for hedges and privacy screens Grows up to 3 ft. per year! Thrives on neglect YouÂll appreciate how these holly trees stay deep green all year, unlike other hedge trees that can brown out during either the summer heat or mild droughts. Plant 5-6 ft. apart for a living wall that gives you complete privacy -- no holes or gaps. You control how they grow  whether naturally into a dense, pyramidal shape that matures at 15-25 ft., or pruned into a tall box hedge. They grow up to 3 ft. per year without pruning. When they reach the height you want, just clip off the leader. This will slow them down and make them thicken. These holly trees make perfect accents at the corners of your home, in the flower garden or entryway. The dark green foliage makes a great contrast to surrounding trees and shrubs. During the winter months you will enjoy the red berries against the deep green foliage. Clip some branches to decorate your home for the holidays. Bird watchers delight as these berries attract all kinds of wildlife!

I have one Nellie Steven. About 18 months ago, I had one large Maple tree removed from the front (due to disease and crowding), well, I noticed that the Nellie Stevens was completely lopsided as half of it was in shade of the Maple. The part in the sun, was growing fast. I have other Hollies (Japanese, Blues, China series...so, I noticed the difference. Now, I expect it will recover some decent shape as it is in full sun. So, this variety can handle full, southern exposure and a good deal of heat. Meantime, my Blue Princess/Prince holly that are in shade are fast, those in the sun have either never taken off or seem stunted. Location, location, location as they say! I suspect the clay soil is less of a factor, my soil is also fairly clay. Makes a great tree if provided its space. Birds also love the berries (had a flock of wild turkeys crazy about them a couple of weekends ago).

I would keep it in shade and covered with a wet sheet/quilt while it is out of the ground and hose it down every couple of hours. Lay it on something the moment you get it out of the ground- a tarp or something easy to drag so you don't lose soil while trying to carry/move it. If it turned hot and sunny after the procedure I would lightly shade it with something rigged up with same sheet, some stakes, and some clothespins for a week or two. This will go fine as long as you pay attention to the plant- I have been forced to move things in extreme heat of summer and they are fine if care is taken. But plan on things taking far longer that you expect and don't dig it out until you are sure you have all your supplies on hand, help lined up, everything ready etc. I apologize if things I mention are just common sense to you- you never know how much thought someone has given something like this :) To ease your mind I once lifted every plant on my property for a new fence installation in extreme South Florida heat. We had trees in pots, trees in buckets, trees in wheelbarrows, palms wrapped in wet sheets and quilts laying around everywhere, and they laid there for days. Didn't lose a thing. Just be aware and be careful.

K, you simply pruned at a very bad time, leaving the shrub exposed to severe cold, wind, and sun scald. Think of that outer layer of foliage as a heavy winter coat for the plant. In your climate, a better time for broad leaf evergreens is in the very early spring, just before the buds break on trees and shrubs.