I’d have to describe this job as a “just missed”. These guys were so close to having a great installation and a satisfied customer. Tops were nice and level; the seams at the sink were very nice; the sink cut out corners were finished well and the sink reveals square and perfect. Had they spent $1,200.00 for Gorilla Grips and shimmed the main tops on plane to each other, there’d be nearly nothing to see here.

Yes, they could have tinted their seam adhesive more accurately and returned the top ends past the wall at the bar and right stove end. The stove wall and sink area have none of the shiny pattern funk, yet the suede finish is beautiful.

We see lots of clueless horrors, but few near misses. With the homeowners justifiably sitting on final payment (I’m not removing the funk pattern for free), these guys left all their profits lying on the countertop. And that’s sad.

So Joseph, the question is, can the funk pattern be removed at all?

Yes seriously...had they not come up with the “bowed stone” excuse and just buffed out my tops and leveled that seam...they would have gotten paid and there would be nothing to see here.

I’m really thankful that Joseph made the trip out to see our tops and appreciate his expertise

What is your plan for underneath the counter? Will you just patch, or trim it out? Or leave it?

Ya know I keep forgetting about that mess....Joseph said it will hold, it’s just horribly ugly...I was trying to figure out what the hell to do but I’m really at a loss!

FWIW, we'll end up laying a piece of moulding under there to cover our gap -- DH will cut notches in the moulding to accommodate the brackets. So, almost invisible. Invisible enough. :)

That was what my husband suggested too Javiwa! I think it’s more frustrating because of the time we took installing them “properly”...oh well this too shall pass am I right?!

Yeah, I would probably just put some trim up and call it good.

I just finished sealing this side (because it doesn’t have the speckly funk or any crazy seams)

"So Joseph, the question is, can the funk pattern be removed at all?"

They have been removed from the lower corner in my last picture.

Out of curiosity, I understand Joe that you wanted to be paid to finish removing the pattern which makes total sense but what I'm not understanding is why the OP didn't have you do it while you were there..

dtrivino grab some MEK and remove the pattern yourself. It will take it straight off without affecting the stone. Reseal after you have finished

dtrivino Ps your photo from under the counter, the so called shims will need sorting out as this will cause a point load on the stone overtime.

Tedbixby, joe only came for a free estimate of sorts. To get a feel for the job and let me know how much it would costs and if it could be removed. He indicated it would take several hours for him to buff out the funky pattern on the surface. Right now we are sending the installer a certified letter documenting the whole thing so hopefully we can all avoid small claims court.

QSCCRE: I’m not sure what MEK is? I’m not a professional :)

Also, I don’t think they have been sealed at all. Although their absorption rate is minimal. I’m using Drytreat Meta Creme for the counters.

also, which shims? The dollops of caulk?? Ugh I figured, is there any way to rectify that without removing the bar top completely

Olga I agree. It’s very clear this fabricator doesn’t have the skill set or desire to finish his job properly. Which is precisely why I am not relinquishing his final payment...

I should have trusted my gut but I trusted him when he said he was 100% confident in the job and the work he performs.

oh well lesson learned!

MEK = Methyl Ethyl Ketone. If it were me, I'd have a fabricator come in and assess before using a solvent anywhere, though. Just my opinion.

Thanks 2Many! I do have a few sample cut out pieces that have the speckled funk on them so maybe I can test it on those pieces before I attempt the whole counter of course?

OP: Do you have any scraps/leftovers you could use as testers?

ETA: Ooops...never mind.

"so maybe I can test it on those pieces before I attempt the whole counter of course?" and what javiwa said : )

I'm no fabricator, and don't know how seams are put together, but if the MEK works, I'd check before I got MEK near a seam or any chip repairs. Again, I'm not a professional. Maybe someone else can chime in.

I agree, I’m not going near seams with anything and luckily we have no chip repairs so that’s good. I’m going to test on a small piece first

Just tried MEK and it didn’t budge =(

And denatured alcohol didn’t do anything either. This stuff is stuck there it seems without some major elbow grease

I'm assuming from the photo above, Joseph was able to remove it somehow?

2Many, yes he was able to! I was trying to exhaust a few DIY methods because I’m concerned our installer might decide to take us to small claims court for the rest of his money. Once I get his official reply (and the assurance we won’t have to pay him the remaining $1200) to our certified letter I will proceed with having Joe come out to finish the repair!

Ah, OK, I understand now. I wish you luck : )

Thank you 2Many, like I said...I love my stone I just wish our install could have gone better!

2ManyDiversions We are Stonemasons and fabricators so we do know what we are doing.

dtrivino MEK and a scrubbing pad - non scratch type. Let the MEK soak for about 2-5 minutes to an area, reapply and scrub off with a buffing pad like either of these two. You have a leathered finish so will not affect it

Option 1 Scrubbing pad

Preferred Option for Scrubbing Pad

It will come off as it is excess sealer.....

NOTE only applicable to the above situation, do not do this on polished surfaces without confirming in a small test area.

I’m not positive it is excess sealer because my installer assured me that he does not seal his work...judging by his level of expertise or lack thereof I am inclined to believe he didn’t seal it. I will attempt the MEK with a scrub pad though

From the photos it is a film on the surface which has been made by something, and because it is very hard to remove I would 99% confidently say it is a sealer or color enhancer of some sorts. Color enhancers are also sealers. Just someone has not wiped off the excess before loading and stacking together. Just do not go near the seams or what joseph has attempted to repair at the seam. It will pull off his sharpie coloring in.

Again you need to let the MEK do its thing. If it is Tenax ager etc a little kerosene added to the mek will help it lift easier. though can be smelly.

We hear all the time.... it did not do it!

It’s actually working!!!! So how do I clean it after the MEK?? Just acetone and then seal it??

No, acetone derivative of MEK. It's not just about the product you use, but how you apply it.

Once you have all the excess sealer gone, you need to use a clean white cloth and soak the cloth with MEK and wipe over again, but this time use a clean white cloth with nothing on it to wipe off the excess.

I would highly recommend only using Drytreat Meta Creme to seal it as you will never have to seal it again.

http://www.drytreat.com/sealers/residential/meta-creme.html

Ps, of cause it works :) , we are Master stonemasons after all and have been doing this for 30 years. Plus would be alot quicker than the non stonemason you had look at it.

I would also go over the joins, and clean them as they are hazy from the attempted repair. Then just use some Ravens Oil applied with a cotton tip to the join before you seal it all again.

Old school stonemasons, use acetone or mek to clean granite so it cleans all the contaminants from it.

I am using Dry Treat Meta Creme actually so that’s no problem! Oh ok perfect, see you can clearly tell I have ZERO idea what I am doing but I do appreciate the help!!

All good, We would rather you do it than someone who thinks they can. At least you have the right information and advice then. Plus we want to see you enjoy your stone counter as they should be.

It's not difficult to access the issues from the photos as we know what we are doing. We just need clearly focused photos and a description of what is the issue.

The Meta Creme if you apply it overnight is best, apply it 3-4mm thick and wait an hour. It will go from a creme to a clear liquid. You will notice some spots where it has soaked in and you will need to reapply it there. Check again in another 1 hour for any meta creme missing spots and leave overnight.

Then just wipe off the excess in the morning with a clean cloth. Microfibers are best for this as they will easily get rid of the excess

PS: DO NOT get any MEK on any other surfaces including timber, cabinets etc as it will strip the finish.

NOTE: DO NOT use MEK for any application or procedure on any surface including stone or quartz as you WILL DAMAGE IT! If you have an specific issue post on houzz or the stone fabricators alliance forum

That’s actually what I did with the meta Creme on a section of our counter that wasn’t affected with the spots so I’m glad I’m following the right protocol. So the MEK wont damage our Quartzite at all?? I just want to be sure before I proceed...

No MEK will not damage any Natural stone, as long as you use it as we have said.

It will pull out any normal impregnating microporosity sealer as they are plastics resins. But will not affect Meta Creme.

Just do not get it on your cabinet doors, if you get it on your tiles that will be ok, but better to work in small areas. Also make sure you clean where someone has attempted to repair the issues on the surface

As we have NO IDEA what he would have done, and because he is not a stonemason, who knows!. Hopefully he has not "BUFFED" the surface as it will cause a change in the finish. The colour will be lighter in that area if he has. But can address that issue if it has occured.

Greetings from Australia. lol

We would recommend that you do ALL THE COUNTER even where the meta creme you have applied, as i would say it has not penetrated and the MEK will pull out the plastic sealer they have obviously used. So the Meta Creme can penetrate and bind correctly.

Well I truly appreciate all of your advice! I’m going to purchase another quart of the Meta Creme Sealer and really go to town with it after all of this is said and done. Thanks again for helping. I truly appreciate everyone who has come to help with these issues and look forward to having my beautiful Leathered countertop back!

About your shims, you should use a neutral cure silicone only to seal between the cabinets and stone.

NOTE: ONLY USE neutral cure otherwise you WILL GET a dark bleed to the surface.

Pump in enough to fill the gaps and use some Denaturalised alcohol in a spray bottle and remove the excess. The DA will prevent you from spreading it everywhere.

Not sure what you call it there but use something like these makes life 100 x easier

https://www.bunnings.com.au/paint-partner-4-piece-silicone-scraper-set_p1660196

Only use something like Sika which is available around the world as your Caulk Has to be for stone. But we know that Sika will not cause bleeding.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/sika-300ml-stone-sikaseal-kitchen-and-bathroom-silicone-sealant_p1210409

One quart should be enough to do your entire counters, it will take as much as it need to take and then it can not take anymore..... Just make sure you follow are instructions for applying it and you will be fine. As we are authorised applicators of Dry Treat products.

Again, All Good, we are on here to make sure the right advice is out there for Care, Cleaning etc for any stone surface.

Ughhh the installers used regular silicone ALLLLL OVER the place....what do I do?!

The problem with regular silicone is that you can get a bleed, though it should be fine.

But make sure you seal your tops with Meta Creme ASAP as this should stop the bleed issue from cheap nasty silicone. Quartzite because it is a metamorphic dimensional stone suffers from bleed very badly.

Meta Creme structurally alters the bonds in the stone making them non friable and in doing so can make this bleed issue not an issue.

If you do not seal them with Meta Creme then the bleed from the wrong silicone will become an issue. Also any stonemason knows you can not use silicones on any natural stone. Its one of the Golden rules.

PS: a white, neutral cure silicone would be best as you have huge gaps.

Your overhangs should have been manufactured this way as it applies to all stone.

This just proves a point of not knowing how to fix any stone, we don't have a disclaimer nor does anyone else that knows what they are doing.

Scary actually, that Kowboys are still allowed to roam around.

Sooo is there any reason that the MEK might work on one section and not another?? Last night the funk came off like a charm in one section and now it’s not budging on another

dtrivino:

Careful with the MEK, please. You can't blow your house up with MB20 on a hog's hair pad.

Thanks Joe, I gave up...it wasn’t working like I thought! I think I was delusionally hopefull!! I think I’m going to give up on DIY tactics and wait until I hear back from the fabricator so I can proceed to have it repaired correctly.

so do I have to worry about it blowing up the house once it’s dry?? Now I’m freaking out about the small section I did

"Blowing up" refers only to the fact that MEK is a flammable solvent, so flames and sparks (smoking, turning on a switch, using a power tool around it) are not good things to have in the vicinity when you're at work as there is a smelly cloud of potentially flammable fumes. Once you quit working with it and the odor has pretty much dissipated, you no longer have an issue. So don't worry...you haven't turned the countertop into TNT.

However, it's always a good idea to work with good ventilation, and to wear a respirator with canisters that are specifically for organic fumes.

dtrivino like above always use as the bottle directs, in a well ventilated area. Interesting a certain person always has to put 2 cents worth in. It is no more flammable than the denatured alcohol that you used.

You need to let the mek sit on the surface to active with the sealer, it takes time and patience. The other area must have a lot more sealer on them.

You can try Xylene as we do not know what they have used as the sealer and they all have different release agents. But I would add about 5% kerosene to your MEK as I would assume it is a Tenax product.

I would stick with MEK, try saturating the surface in the area you are working and get a razor blade on an 30o angle to remove some of the excess sealer from the surface. This will allow the MEK to penetrate. You just need to allow the MEK penetrate the resins in the dried, excess sealer that is laying on top of the stone. It is not a five minute fix or easy to know what to do, why your installer has run away.

About the IDIOT! that told you, you could blow up your house... he is a moron! Like any solvent it evaporates, Sealers have a majority of carriers like MEK or xylene which evaporate as they dry....

The comments above about, MB20 is a polish for granite only works on granite for polishing, not removal of ager. A hogs hair is coarser than a white scotchbrite pad. It just goes to show this person has no idea.

Quartz - Stone Care, Cleaning & Repair Experts, “2ManyDiversions We are Stonemasons and fabricators so we do know what we are doing.”

I understand this. Your first response was this: “grab some MEK and remove the pattern yourself”. Knowing MEK is a solvent, I simply stated such, said I was not a professional (in granite) and said hopefully someone else would chime in. Meaning with further info, as I felt it needed. It was needed.

It wasn’t until later that you gave detailed instructions. Offense was not intended. Again, I was only requesting the possible need for more info.

Frankly, I think you are honestly trying to help the OP, but solvents are flammable, and care should be taken around appliances and flames. The OP is tired and stressed, and instructions/warnings on an MEK container might have been missed.

Calling anyone here on GW an “IDIOT” is offensive, though I see it a lot. Posting a link to someone’s past that has nothing to do with the topic is counterproductive and, in my eyes, seems unnecessarily vindictive. When one calls themselves a professional, they should behave as such. If you take offense to my opinions/comments, I will not respond as taking part in what appears to be an ongoing pi$$ ing contest is disadvantageous to the OP’s request for help.

ET Correct: One-sided pi$$ ing contest.

And also ETA: I see you have removed the link mentioned above. Good.