They sell a 10-piece filter assortment with most of the available filters, so you can experiment with what works best. You start with a reflector bulb with a 10 degree beam spread in your choice of color temperatures - 2700K (warm, like incandescent), 3000K (a bit whiter, like halogen), 4000K (cool white fluorescent tubes, but with better color rendering), or 5000K (cool, matches daylight streaming through windows). The filters can widen the beam spread, which starts out as a narrow spotlight, to a wide spot, narrow flood, or wide flood. There are four sizes and shapes of the squared or rectangular beam shapers. And finally three filters that will "warm" the light, so if you ordered the 4000K bulbs, you could change it to 3500K, 3000K, or 2700K. Doing this slightly reduces the efficiency, so I'd get the lowest color temperature bulb you'll ordinarily use (and they're very efficient - each bulb uses only 7-1/2 watts, but is as bright as a 50 watt halogen bulb). You also have a choice between 12V low-voltage or 120V line voltage (or 230V in most non-US countries). Using low voltage helped make the old halogen bulbs whiter, but I don't see any advantage to using 12V low voltage for LEDs unless you are converting an existing halogen MR16 setup. If you're installing new lamps, using 120V line voltage (GU10) will save lots of money by not requiring transformers or expensive low-voltage dimmers, and will be less prone to buzzing. They also have two series of bulbs called Vivid VP3 and Brilliant. You want the Vivid/VP3 which has better color rendering (95 CRI in lighting parlance rather than 80), meaning you won't get dull or inaccurate colors like you do with fluorescent/CFL bulbs or lower-quality LEDs. Filter 10-pack includes: 25ð Beam Spreader 36ð Beam Spreader 60ð Beam Spreader 10ð x 25ð Linear Lens beam shaper 10ð x 36ð Linear Lens beam shaper 25ð x 25ð Flat Top beam shaper 36ð x 36ð Flat Top beam shaper 1/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 1/2 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 3/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 40ð beam spreader with glare-free louvers sold separately More links: Filters 120v line voltage bulb detailed info 12v low-voltage bulb detailed info Info about color rendering Info about non-yellowish white rendering Those last two links aren't technobabble by the way; this company was founded by a guy that won a Nobel Prize for inventing the blue and white LEDs that made LED lighting possible.

First and foremost, great idea with the wooden accent wall! They are on trend right now and it's a great addition to any room. With the being said, I do not think you will have a problem with the contrasting of each material so long as the colors of each jive. Textures, materials, and colors are always mixed with each other to give a room its own unique look and style. Also, gray is a universal color and you shouldn't have a hard time finding a floor that compliments the accent wall. The Flooring Blog

Hi Chispa, House is a townhouse built in 1996, trying to modernize the look. As far as decorating style, I like modern/contemporary, nothing too funky. Something that would be cohesive with the rest of the kitchen, and bring the kitchen to life a little. It's very white right now.

Option #2...because option #1 doesn't look very promising. The 'fibreboard core' is concerning. This isn't a 'wood' floor it would be considered a hybrid. It sits somewhere between laminate (HDF core) and an engineered hardwood (top layer of hardwood sitting on plywood). If you want engineered hardwood then PLEASE purchase hardwood. If you want laminate, then PLEASE purchase laminate. The hybrid of option #1 may not give you want you THINK it will give you. It will give you a laminate with all the issues laminate has with moisture etc. It will give you the DOWN SIDE of both floors. Option #2 is a NICE sounding product. The total board thickness is a snick more than 1/2" (5/8" = 16mm). The wear layer of 4mm is 25% the total thickness. That's a nice ratio. The 4mm means you will get a floor that can be refinished (you need a minimum of 3mm wear layer to get a proper sand/refinish). The thickness of the wear layer also indicates the stability of the product. A THIN wear layer often PEELS/splits/cracks because it doesn't have the hold needed to grab onto a different material. You will notice option #1 has 1.5mm. I am going to tell you a secret which not many people know. The HDF core is VERY dynamic. It is SOOOO dynamic it can/will move up to 1" over 25 linear feet! I can pretty much guarantee you the 1.5mm wear layer is NOT going to allow that type of movement. Which means the GLUE will be the ONLY THING from allowing the HDF from expanding MORE than the rigid top layer. The glue will fail and the thin wood surface will split/check/crack/peel under extreme movement (1" over 25 linear feet is considered extreme BTW). There are few surfaces that can handle that type of movement...hardwood is NOT one of them. Paper photographs sitting over the paper HDF = no problem = traditional laminate. Cork surface over HDF = no problem...cork is very dynamic/stretchy. Pay the up-charge or go with traditional laminate. Traditional laminate in the PRICE RANGE you are looking at for floor is going to outperform the hybrid. And the hybrid cannot go in a kitchen without SERIOUS moisture prevention the seams. The HDF will expand when it comes in contact with moisture. The wood on top will NOT expand in the same way. Remember: floors take the MOST amount of abuse of any finish. There is always something sitting on, touching, walking on the floor at all times...because gravity works. Do not go cheap with flooring. It works out to be far more expensive.