The following link has more info Here is a link that might be useful: Led recessed guide

Chulaman- Good questions and you are obviously doing your homework here. I think your choice on spa pump and controls is a good one. 4 different jet settings should accommodate most everyones expectations and comfort levels. Regarding the pool circulation and cleaning. I would offer a few other options to consider if interested. By the way, I did similar research when I was building our pool and surprisingly our pools are about the same: volume is 35K gallons, with Paramount PV-3 infloor cleaning system and chlorine generator. Ultimately, I decided to go with a 2.5HP 2 speed pump to do the task of circulation, filtering and cleaning. With this setup, I run the PV3 at 1.5 hours a day at high speed and the rest of the filter/circulation cycle is done with low speed. During the winter, low speed is only ran for about 4 hours/day and during the summer, low speed is ran for about 8 hours/day. This has provided enough chlorination and filtration as my pool is always crystal clear and chlorine levels have been in check. This winter, I had the chlorine generator down to 10% and last summer I had it up to 40% and it provided adequate chlorine, even in 35K gallons. My pool though is somewhat shaded, so this will probably make a difference on chlorine needs and your pool may be need more chlorine. HereÂs some options I considered: Two uneven single speed pumps in parallel. With this setup a 1HP pump was in parallel with a 2HP pump and this gave 3 different flow rates possible: 1HP, 2HP and 3HP depending on need. Two uneven 2 speed pumps in parallel. With this setup a 1.5HP 2 speed was in parallel with a 2.0HP 2 speed and this gave a possibility of 8 different flow rates with all the combinations of high and low speed between the 2 pumps. Ultimately, I decided to keep the system simple with a single 2 speed pump used in conjunction with large plumbing and minimum 90Âs, tees, crosses, etc. Variable speed pumps did not make much sense in my application. I did a lot of homework here also on true efficiency benefits of variable speed vs 2 speed and there is not much difference between these two technologies with the filter cycles that I described above. The plumbing design is much more important than the pump technology if you really want to save energy month after month. Once I really started to bone up on plumbing and its effect on system efficiency, I realized that the addition of a tee and checkvalves in the plumbing system added additional backflow on pumps, so the parallel pump ideas hit the trash can. If you want to really learn more about plumbing design, I can provide a few published documents that have wonderful information on plumbing design and things to consider when designing the plumbing. If your pool was much bigger, say 70K gallons or more, I would say parallel pumps would make a lot of sense for filtering and cleaning. But, for 35K gallons, parallel pumps is overkill. Especially two variable speed pumps in parallel, unless cost is of no concern and you just want to tinker with different configurations and technologies. Hope this helps.

Even with out the converters, the LED lamp portion would probably be near $40. That is a substantial difference considering, that the AC/DC transformer need not be expensive. If a room has 8 recessed downlights, installing a single transformer into a wall (say, between the beams above the light dimmer) would be fine. The cheapest recessed LED downlight today is about $80  my room of 8 would cost $640, instead of $320 for LEDs without a transformer in each. If a separate small transformer was even $200, I'd still be well ahead... Heck, why is not there a single-gang sized transformer, with the dimmer (or switch) control outside? On its input there'd be 110V AC, and its output would be DC  as much as the dimmer is set to... It could be used with the existing wiring ("retrofit"), because, if the switch-to-fixture cables were good enough for the 60-200Watts of an old incandescent bulb (the puny 10A-rating means 1100Watts!), they are certainly good enough for the low Watts of the LED fixtures. How do we get Steve Jobs interested in designing a beautiful, safe, economical, and ergonomic iDimmer®?..

I'm so completely, utterly confused about my UC lighting that I've given up for the time being and am just using the cans in my kitchen! I posted on the lighting forum, but didn't really understand the answers! Here's my situation, and I'd be grateful if someone could help point me in the right direction: My electrician installed some wiring for undercabinet lights. Right now there are these big thick wires sticking from under the end of each run of cabinets. There is a switch for the undercabinet lights at the end of one run of cabinets. I was thinking of buying Ikea's undercabinet LEDs becasue they are so, so cheap, but when I looked at the package, they have PLUGS. Can you just cut off the plugs and wire them directly to the wires my electrician installed (OK, maybe he will do this, not me)? He suggested I purchase a roll of very small LED tape lights from him for $200, and he'd charge me another $200 to install them. I saw a roll of tape lights on HD's website for less than $20, but my electrician claims his are far, far better. I feel like he's trying to rip me off, but I don't know, and maybe I should just listen to him. Is $400 a lot for UC lights under two fairly small runs of cabinets? Furthermore, will the tape lights require a transformer? Will they be compatible with those big wires the electrician installed? Will the Ikea lights be compatible with those big wires? I looked at the package, and the Ikea ights seem to include a transformer (there's a big brick thing in the package). Uh, oh. My head is starting to buzz. I think I'll stop thinking about this. It is literally driving me crazy! What to do, what to do??