Tile issue for master bathroom
Norma Adrover
6 years ago
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Norma Adrover
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Moisture Issues In Master Bathroom
Comments (4)Let me preface this by saying I am by no means an expert, I just know from experience and things I have read. Yes, you really must have an exhaust fan. There are also probably other moisture problems you can't see due to there being no fan - but for your sake hopefully nothing major. It definitely should vent outside the house - you either have to cut a hole in the gable of your house or through the roof, or, if you must, in the soffit. Venting though the roof I *think* is the best way, but also the most difficult to do correctly. They make all the pieces for whatever you need depending on where the vent will be. We have one in my house that had to be vented to the soffit, and we have a little circular grill/vent cap that only opens when air comes out of it. I'll link a similar product. As for who should do it - if you're handy you could probably DIY (I believe there is a video on how to do the gable version on this old house), otherwise probably a roofing/attic insulation type contractor would be good. Here is a link that might be useful: Bath Fan Soffit/Undereve vent...See MoreBathroom Tile Issue
Comments (6)I remember this post. the company needs to reimburse you for the tear out and the new tile. No,, do not let your contractor just replace the sheets. What's to say down the line the others won't also discolor?? If the tiles aren't meant for wet area, then they ALL shave to come out. I'm sorry but the shower is a do over. I don't know how the shower was waterproofed Our contractor wants us to shop around to find matching tile that matches what we currently have that is also waterproof as he plans to take the discolored ones and replace them as they go. Your GC shouldn't be the one to do this. You should have a qualified tile expert doing it) . Remember I told you my story about my tiles that de-glazed because they weren't meant for a wet area? The tile company completely reimbursed me for the shower redo. All of it, plus new tile. Did you GC recommend these tiles to you? is this why he wants to cheap out and just replace a few sheets? bottom line.....All of those sheets need to go. The walls will have to be redone. Pick another tile. You should be refunded every penny for the tile you bought, and the money you paid to have them installed. if you go along w/this hack GC and replace a few sheets, don't come back here in a few months asking what to do when the rest of the tile begins to fade. Do it right this time....See Moreboys bathroom-tile or vinyl better for boys with aiming issues
Comments (24)Their aim CAN improve IF you consistently call them on it. Most will change if only so they are not again embarrassed by mom yet again talking about their taking a whizz . Also, IF you require they wipe the area with a cloth (spray bottle of alcohol) -- clean up their own mess, standing over them the first several times if need be, they'll be much more likely to quit missing. Tell them dribbling is something done while playing basketball. (Also note: If you don't get them to address dribbling issues, their underwear will be harder to clean and more likely to stain.)...See MoreIssue with bathroom floor tile one year after remodel
Comments (8)The material the GC used is the big question. The second part of that question is: Was it reinforced to the requirements made by the tile manufacturer? The reason I ask is this: many people *think (even GCs get this wrong) cement board is "reinforcement" material. It is NOT. In fact it is ONLY to offer a level surface for the tiles to sit on. A proper plywood (not OSB...please not OSB) is required to achieve a CERTAIN thickness (total thickness of layers 1+2 = "X" amount of inches thick. This thickness is to be determined/calculated by the person doing the installation. To get to the deflection rating required by the tiles (ahem...tile manufacture's requirement needs to be followed) the JOIST SPACING is taken into account. The fact that the bathroom is over a garage might be an issue, it might not. But garage builds are notorious for being 'lower grade' than the build used in the house. That means joist spacing might be quite large. That means you need a VERY THICK subfloor to achieve the same deflection rating as a properly built joist system being made ready to take on tile. Yah. The architect had to make the space READY for tile. Which is where the 'over a garage' might come into play. Anyway, please find out: 1. Total thickness of subfloor BEFORE tiles were installed 2. Material used to reach the total thickness (cement backer board should NOT be part of the equation...if it is, you know where the weakness in the system is) 3. What was the deflection calculation used? 4. Is there a decoupling membrane (like Ditra or Schluter) under the tiles Was there anything else done to this space/area that might have added more WEIGHT to the area? Like a washer/drier pair? Or a water bed in the next room? Weight lifting equipment added to the next room? Or a large tub added to a bathroom expansion project?...See MoreUser
6 years agoMizLizzie
6 years agoCreative Ceramic & Marble/ Bill Vincent
6 years agoNorma Adrover
6 years agoloves2read
6 years ago
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