floorguy, thanks, and that would be a logical solution, but it's made in China, so I deal with the distributor. And no matter who I call within the company, I get referred to my salesman, who is a salesman, not an installer, & he's already steered me wrong - VERY wrong, at least once. So I was hoping for some more experienced opinions from here.

Rosin Paper is useless . you need a underlayment pad for the imperfections in the floor . Quick Step makes a good one , and their top of the line has a good moisture barrier on it . Tape the seems with a foil tape not Duct tape . QuickÂStep® Unisound Combi Floor

Thanks for the feedback. As for covering terrazzo...I am not a fan, and vastly prefer hardwood. However, please don't weep, as my husband and I have commented the floors are just covered up. Someday no doubt a future owner will be exclaiming as they rip out my flooring 'Can you believe someone covered up these amazing floors?'. Just as today the same comment is heard while the carpeting is peeled off old wood floors :).

Ok...From a former cork flooring professional, here is my advice. Loose lay the cork underlayment and then install the floating floor on top. Cork sheets provide less waste and are MUCH easier to install. You lay them down like a blanket and you are done. It is that simple. The 'glue' down is ONLY for a glue-down hardwood sitting on top. We call that a double stick. You do NOT need to get to that level. You have a floating floor. The 'perimeter glue' is for ROLLS of cork. Why? Because the roll always curls. Always. You will 'loose' the last 2-3 curls on the inside of the roll. That is ++ waste of an expensive and highly valuable product. Hence the reason builders prefer the sheets. Do NOT use tape - OF ANY KIND. Tape deteriorates and starts to make a CRINKLING sound. Imagine how annoying that would be. After 6 months your floor starts to make a noise like stepping on crumpled up newspaper! Not fun. Here's what you do: 1. Chose the DIRECTION of the plank for installation (north-south or east-west?) 2. Lay the sheets of cork in the OPPOSITE direction (ie. perpendicular) 2.a This is a good way of keeping long seams from lining up with long seams. You will create a brick pattern = always good building practices. 3. Like your floor, you will stagger the cork underlay joints. Butt the edges together (no tape) and keep going. That means if you start with a full sheet of underlay on your 1st row, you will start the 2ND row with a partial sheet...thus producing a brick-pattern for the underlayment. 4. Lay roughly 1/3 of the room with underlayment and then start installing your flooring. 5. The sheet underlayment can move a snick so you do not want to walk on it too much. Like laying ceramic tile, you work with a small amount of mortar/thinset while you set the tile. Cork underlayment is the same. You lay a little bit of underlayment (enough to 2-3 runs) then lay a little bit of flooring 6. Leave the 1/2" expansion gap at the wall JUST LIKE your cork floor needs. Both the underlayment and the floor need room for movement. This is super simple. Use your spacers at the wall WHILE you install the underlayment. Leave them there while you install the planks. It is that simple. If you float your flooring your cork sheet underlayment is floated as well. That's why this is SUPER simple. Installers love working with sheet cork. It is insanely simple and they still get to charge another $0.25/sf - $0.50/sf to lay it. Yet they hardly need to do a darn thing.